I have had traction problems ever since I got the car...the previous owner did many things to it performance wise such as a zz4 crate motor, headers, flowmaster, chip, 24# fuel injectors, etc. It has drag radials and only 2.73 gears right now, and I still can't mash on it from a stop and hook. To make things worse, I'm gonna put in some 3.73's next weekend. Here is my question to you guys: For the best 1/4 time possible, what do I do to my suspension to get it to hook up best for the least amount of money? I have heard several different things from jegs, summit, etc. but I would like to see what has actually WORKED for THIRD GEN owners.

 

I recomend adding some LCA relocation brackets.. that will help a bit. Also try a softer spring in the right rear of the car...its either that or harder, but i am pretty sure its a softer spring. If its a drag only car, take the front sway bar off.. if its a street car as well, LEAVE IT IN! You will not like to experience your car without it. I assume you have aftermarket LCA's. Lower the tire pressure a little as well.

 

nope! I don't have aftermarket LCA's (yet). Is that a must? I am thinking about swapping my tpi stuff for edelbrock's setup. It looks VERY promising (dynoing up to 410 hp). So, can LCA's and the brackets give me what I'm looking for? I lose many a race because of lack of traction...but if I half throttle it, I normally keep up with them while they spin and then take them down the line. I have been told quite a few times this is gonna cost me about 700-900. Is this true?

 

Heres what id do: spohn lca's, relocation brackets, subframe connectors, and torque arm.. you have posi? What kind of tires? At the track, u running slicks?

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1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,
Coming Soon: T/a hood, painted, panhard bar,4thgen front seats, compucam, msd 8.5 wires (accel is CRAP)
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
#3 Forever

 

man, sounds like lotsa lotsa money...

I just spoke w/Steve Spohn. Seems like a great guy with great products! I don't forsee getting the torque arm just yet. But it sounds like the LCA's, Relocation brackets and SFC's are a good start. I am running drag radials and yes, I have posi. He quoted me like $355 for the three I mentioned above. How long would these things take to be put on by a shop? I would like to keep this around $500 max, and it will probably be done after the carb stuff is done. I dunno why, but I would rather have more hp than traction. I am excited cuz I went to iroc-z.org and they have a calculator and it said that w/410 hp, in a 3600 lb car, I could run a 11.90. It also said I should be running a 13.00 now, (I now run a 13.30 w/stock suspension and 2.73 gears) so I figured in a 12.10 or 12.20 should be in line after the carb/intake/heads/cam/3.73 gears/traction is all in place. After all is bought and the other pieces are sold, this should only cost about 1100 out of pocket. How absolutely nuts! That was about the price of the miniram I just took back!!!

 

I was quoted 125 to install and weld up the subframe connectors, the relocating brackets and lca's shouldnt be more than 50 bucks to do since its a matter of lining up the brackets and welding them on then bolting up the new LCA's, i didnt do relocation brackets,but i did LCA's, and had them installed in 10 mins...

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1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,
Coming Soon: T/a hood, Painted,Spohn Panhard Bar, 4thgen Front Seats, Cam!, Msd 8.5 wires, Posi (ACCEL IS CRAP)
"I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
#3 Forever

 

Sweet action...the install doesn't sounds like it's that costly.

What about tires? On the street (for safe stoplight racing mind you), can I drop down to like an H or Z rated tire? I don't like drag radials on the street when it rains especially.

 

H and Z rated tires are high speed tires. They have very hard rubber (compared to a drag type tire) and are not designed to heat up. They offer very poor traction for stop light to stop light driving. A softer tire is much better for short driving accelleration but will also wear out faster.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

SFC install tip....Weld them in first BEFORE swapping the LCA's.

My PB,LCA, and SFC's cost $365 shipped and everything install was $130.

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86 T/A 5.0 A4 & 2.77 gear
15.62 @ 86 mph
93 Civic 1.6L
13.5 @ 100 mph