I know this is a stupid question but, do you have to use tubes on slicks? and do you need to get a race specific one. any help from users will help. please no "I DON"T SEE WHY YOU NEED THEM" or any thing from some one why really does not know. I just wan't to hear frome people who use them.

 

You do not "NEED" them. Pro Stock cars don't run tubes. Tubes will tend to stiffen the sidewall more.

The disadvantage is it is impossible to get a slick to seal without a tube. In other words, they day after you race, your tires will be flat.

If you run a tube, be sure to use rim screws!

 

I don't use them in my race car. Slicks are not designed to run tubeless. By not running tubes in my slicks I save some rotating weight. The downside is that since I only run 16 pounds of air in the tires, they go flat on me in about 3 weeks. It was raining once at the track and I could see tiny air bubbles coming right out the sidewalls. You only need rim screws when you run tubes with very low tire pressures (5-10 psi). If the tire spins on the rim, it'll tear the valve stem right off. At 16 psi, my tires have yet to spin on the rim.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block

Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Thanks for the info I only plan on using the slicks once in a while (Track) and also since the rims already have the screw holes I really think it will be hard to get it to seal the bead. the screw holes look a little close for sealing.

 

It will depend on the Slicks you get, if you go with a Drag Radial they are designed to run tubeless. If you go with a set of MT Street ET's then they are designed to run with tubes and you really should have tubes.
Screws are not really needed but if you have a fast flat they might just keep the tire on the rim a fraction of a second longer maybe just what you need to get the car under control.

 

What do you need slicks for anyways?

Just get some DOTs they work just as well for slower car.

I run Hoosier Quick Time Pros and LOVE them. They stick awesome!

My car runs 1.5 60fts and I never have a problem with traction even on crappy prepped track nights.


No tubes and they work on stock wheels.


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-Mike
89 TTA
PT51, V4, 50s, 3DP, Stock Long Block and Convertor.....
11.25@121 w/1.56 24psi Through the Exhaust on a 16psi launch

1998 LS1 T/A 6-Speed
13.10@106 Factory Stock down to the air in the tires. 296HP/319TQ

 

I am going to use the hoosier drag slick. I got them from a friend and they have most of there life left. he never used them him self and doesn't know much about slicks. my car ran a best of 13.5 in the 1/4. I had to litterally dump it at 700 rpm just of idle and I just spin them through second and most of third. I tried a (few) suspension mods but, no luck (more to come of course). since then I have added NOS to my car and know I can do much better but, will need the traction to do it.