I was on http://www.3gc.net, where in one of there tech articles they mentioned that you could gain better 60ft times if you place a couple of shims under the front left sway bar bushing. Has anyone here tried this mod, if so does it work well?

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1991 Z28 5.7L
All free mods/afpr/hurst lock up harness/flowmasters(off)/lakewood Lca's/accel stock size injectors/msd6A-plugs, ignition coil/k&n/lakewood adjustable panhard rod.
1/4mile 13.7@102. Expected et next outing 12.9@? (with slp 1 3/4 headers and new ported sportsman II heads along with 24lb injectors, adjustable torque arm spohn or bmr)

 

I don't think that would really help any, as sway bars only help side to side motion. Now, taking your swap bars would help, as it would reduce weight.

 

They are probably trying to weight jack the car. This is also the purpose of drag springs like the Moroso Trick Springs, where one spring is stiffer than the other to counteract axle torque. If one of your rear wheels spins and the other doesn't, or if one spins longer, or doesn't hook up as well, they may help.

 

The idea is to equalize the load on the rear wheels under acceleration. Driveshaft torque tries to pick up the right side tire, so what you want is to apply more force to that tire to keep the pressure equal from left to right. The sway bar method of doing this is not too good because it preloads the whole chassis (which is quite flexable) instead of acting directly on the axle. One of the best ways to compensate for driveshaft torque is with independantly adjustable air bags inside the rear springs. You set the right higher than the left - and you reduce the tendancy to squat at the same time. Then when the day is done you just let the air out and drive home. The Moroso teick springs also work well, but are NOT streetable, so you would have to change springs at the track before and after the event - PITA!

Equalizing tire loads will help with traction at the strip even if you have a good posi or a spool.

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Karl Hunter
Hunter Motorsports
Vancouver, B.C. CANADA