I was just down at the bone yard an came across a Firebird Formula... I don't know the year, but the front sway bar seems to be 25 mm. I think I currently have a 21 mm up front and was wondering how this will help my handling? Also, would this Formula have the 25 or 23 mm Rear sway bar? I couldn't find any RPO codes, just a sticky spot where they used to be.

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1984 Firebird - Daily driver, 305 LG4, 3.23 rear, T5 - Hurst short shifter, Edelbrock 600 CFM 1406 carb, Performer intake - Edelbrock Pro-Flow air filter, gutted cat, IROC 16x8 5 Spoke Wheels, AIWA bargain basement (from Sears of course) CD player, Eight-ball shift ****
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Are you sure you've got your measurements right? I didn't think the front bars came that small.

 

I think you measured wrong, too.

My stock V6 has a 34mm front bar and an 18mm rear. I think this about as small as they come on 3gens.

I will soon be putting on the 24mm rear from a TA. Also going to replace the old rubber bushings/endlinks front and back with ES. Hopefully my handling will improve significantly.

Dale

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2.8L MPFI
1/2 CAI
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Was 700-R4 --> Now T5
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Maybe I did... it was a crude measurement. But, it was definitely bigger than the one on there right now... so what exactly will the advantages and disadvantages be with the bigger sway bar?

Also, is the rear going to be bigger or should I assume that is the same as mine?

 

Two advantages to the larger bar. First the 34 mm bar is hollow and lighter than the smaller solid bar you already have. Secondly the larger sway bar will keep the front end planted level through the corner better than the smaller bar. So you'll have better cornering ability. Swap the bars. Go ahead and get Energy Suspension poly-graphite sway bar bushings while your at it as well. A steering brace (aka Wonder Bar) from an Iroc will help as well. Good luck, Lon.

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I worked on an '83 TA that came stock with a 10mm rear bar! LOL. We swapped a 24 mm onto it.

Basicaly larger diameter bars will better decrease the roll of the car.
The front and rear bars need to be balanced though for best handling.

The idea is to have neutral steering response when in a turn at steady throttle.

To find out how "neutral" or "not" your steering is go to an empty
parking lot and start slowly going in a tight circle (about 3/4 or so of max steering wheel travel).
Gradually (read this as very slowly) increase speed. A neutral (balanced) car will continue turning without the front or rear sliding before the other end. Both ends should break traction at the same time and the car should then begin to drift out in a wider circle. Then if you increase throttle considerably (but without spinning the tires) the car should have some understeer and if you decrease the throttle considerably you should have some oversteer. Returning to a steady throttle state should return the car to a neutral drift.

Most cars won't do this without a lot of chassis tuning though.
If the front end looses traction first and the cars starts going straight that is understeer, also called pushing, or tight.

If the rear breaks loose first and the back end spins out that is called oversteer, or loose.

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If your car understeers (pushes, keeps going straight) then you need to decrease the size of the front swaybar or increase the size of the rear. It's a relationship thing, front compaired to rear & rear to front.

If your car oversteers you need to increase the size of the front bar, or decrease the size of the rear bar.


Larger bars cause a harsher ride while decreasing body roll.
Smaller bars allow more roll and allow a softer ride.

Speaking strictly in a performance (anti roll) state of mind you want larger bars but they must be balanced front to rear for correct handling.






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Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
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[This message has been edited by IROCKZ4me (edited November 14, 2001).]

 

I'm thinking that my measurements were off by 10 mm... it looked like 24 when I read it so it must be a 34 mm and my current bar is probably 30 mm I guess I'll go snag it... they aren't hot items at that yard, so it should be safe 'til saturday. Not a bad expenditure of $10 I'd say.

Is there any way to determine a WS6 suspension package without the RPO codes? Most of the cars there are missing the RPO sheets. Plus I was going to look for the elusive JG1 aluminum driveshaft. What firebirds/camaros came with that?

Thanks for the help guys!

[This message has been edited by ChillPhatCat (edited November 14, 2001).]