Ok, The crossmember was/is shifted back a few 1/8s of an inch on the drivers side and pushed foward on the passenger side....now Seeing that it bolt in and that might be the only thing i need to fix. The drivers wheel rubbs when i get close the the fully turned position...It only rubs a little. Now I have a few questions.....One how hard is it to replce teh crossmember....two how car are your front wheels from the rear of the fender.....my car is lowerd 2" so I don't know if it will matter much. I have subframe connectors so that added to the overall frame strengh and it does not look like the main frame was bent. I dunno we are taking ot a autobody to get it checked out and pulled if it worth it. but if it turns out to be the K-member I will replace it.

------------------
1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, G92, 9-bolt 3.45, Lowered, Cat-back, Air Foil, Sub Frames, Huge sways

"YOU All Laugh Because I'M Different, I Laugh Because YOU'RE All The Same" - me
AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

The crossmember is not too bad to remove. But it is very time consuming. and you must support the engine somehow. because the crossmember is what the motor mounts attach to.

 

I will have a backhoe(I work for excavators) Lift it a little and then support it up there with the hoe as a back up.

 

took it to two body shops today and the first one said after looking at it for a few min said that I would be better off getting another car but he went on to say that if I did repair it that I would need all new suspention components, upper(we don't have these) and lower control arms, struts, tried to convince me that the passenger side was messed up too when I hit the rock on the other side....ummmmsaid that the crossmember was welded in (it is bolted in) etc etc...so I left and went to a place 1/2 mile down the road....I guy about 50 looked at it...stuck hie head under the car for maybe 10 seconds or so, asked me to move the move the wheel and then compared both sides and said that he wants to take a better look at it on a lift...said it would cost nothing too look at it(the other guy said there was a lift fee and that parts needed to be taken off )....So he said bring it in Weds morning and the will look at it.....said right now from the looks, it don't look too bad and might not cost that much.....I think I found a guy who knows what he is talking about but we will see.

 

Another success story about yet another 3rdgen saved from the "parts car" status.

You go dude!

 

It's not too hard of a thing to replace. You can get a junk one, probably; they call it a K-member most of the time. The control arms do bolt to it, so you have to deal with the brakes, struts, springs, and stab bar when you remove it, as well as the engine. But it's not as hard as it sounds, especially not if you're familiar with suspension type work.

If I was doing that (again - I had to do it once already, for a reason like yours) I'd replace the CAbushings, springs, struts, and motor mounts, since you have to take al that stuff apart anyway.

 

yes, excatly......I will do all the "bolt-on work" but the body shop wll pull teh frame if need be....I have no way of telling what is wrong with the car....I planned on replacing alot of the steering compnets with Moog stuff and what is the Enhanced Moog Ball Joint??

EDIT: Also the first guy asked me If I wanted to sell my IROC rims to him.....I was thinking **** no.

 

i was told mine might be bent too when my car gets over 70mph it starts to shake a bit but i think it was just the tires i haven't tried it since i put the car up.i was wondering what you think of your 2" drop i have a chance to get 2" lowering springs and i was wondering if i need any special suspension parts or if i just throw the 2" drop springs in and thats it.let me know all the details and what did your car do when you noticed it ws bent mine use to rub when i first got it i thougth oh crap bu then i looked and the right tire was just rubbing on the piece of plastics that shifted out talk about a relief.anyways let me know about those 2 things.

 

well the car came with the springs in already, YES DO IT. unless there are steep drives ways aroudn you or bad roads....You suspenstion gets harder, alot harder but the looks and handeling make-up for it if you like a car that handels. Ummm....I could not drive the car when it happened, the wheel was touching the wheel well.

 

Note the pic of the K-member brace.....that is of the drivers side one....look to see how far it moved back.....




can't tell much from that....what springs do you think they are..2" lower







All images are under 30K, most 25K and other under 20K

 

I would suggest getting a used front crossmember assy. With all the front suspension still attaced. Then bolt it in. I think you'll be OK.

 

Just got word from teh body shop.....they were optomistic at first but when they put it on a lift the **** hit the fan.......A frame rail is folded, the part of the frame where the "steering gear"(??) attaches had rotten off and the guy befor me had welded on a plate(never even saw this, will have to look for it when I get the car back).....and the rear frame is f'ed up from someone towin git wrong....."The car was unfit for the road before any of the secondary stuff(my accident) happened".


Oh well, I am gonna either swap out the drive train into an S10 or look to find another V8 5 spd..... or maybe a V6 MPFI 5 speed ( if it not that had to convert.

 

Screw both those Ideas.....I just bought a 1988 IROC Convertable......TPI Auto(will convert to 5 speed in the summer).....$3400...White, black top, charcoal interior.

 

Damn... Camaro6speed... where do you live? I need to go car hunting out there. Around here (Toms River area) a V8 thirdgen starts out at 3 grand... you'd be lucky to find a TPI car for 4, and if they want to be sticklers, I've seen 5.7's go for 5 and up...

As far as the "folded frame rail"... hah... he's talking about the steering box... remember that problem all these cars had where the box would rot/break off and you'd get a "click" when you turned the wheel... the wonderbar fixed this problem... the plate is looked upon as an acceptable fix...

If you were driving the car with the messed up rear end before the accident, and the car was fine... what's going to stop the car from being fine after you get the wheels straight?

Either way, good luck with you're new perchase, and if you're looking to sell rims or drivetrain stuff, either e-mail me for PM me here...