86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 66
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From: Orange County, NY
Car: 1986 Camaro Iroc Z
Engine: 5.7L Corvette L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open
86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
I have posted other threads about this but I am not getting the answers I am looking for. I read the posts above and they are unclear (to me) also. I really could use some cut and dry information on this topic as I am having a very hard time understanding what I am going to need to get this suspension to where I want it to be. I have an 86 IROC. The steering is loose. The car has a lot of rattles.
I am replacing the springs with an Eibach Pro Kit (1” drop), The struts and shocks are being replaced but I have not chosen a manufacturer yet. I have new tie rods, inner and outer, a new idler arm, new ball joints, and an Energy Suspension kit. The sway bars are stock and I am told those are more than sufficient. I recently ordered LCARB’s but after reading the threads up top I am reconsidering my purchase as I am not seeing the benefit on my 1” dropped car. I am ordering an adjustable pan hard bar. Are there any benefits to replacing the rear control arms? Do I really need the relocation brackets and if so why? What else will I benefit from? I am looking for factory or better handling. I would like the car to launch well, and stop moving all over the road.
Thanks,
Dan
I am replacing the springs with an Eibach Pro Kit (1” drop), The struts and shocks are being replaced but I have not chosen a manufacturer yet. I have new tie rods, inner and outer, a new idler arm, new ball joints, and an Energy Suspension kit. The sway bars are stock and I am told those are more than sufficient. I recently ordered LCARB’s but after reading the threads up top I am reconsidering my purchase as I am not seeing the benefit on my 1” dropped car. I am ordering an adjustable pan hard bar. Are there any benefits to replacing the rear control arms? Do I really need the relocation brackets and if so why? What else will I benefit from? I am looking for factory or better handling. I would like the car to launch well, and stop moving all over the road.
Thanks,
Dan
Supreme Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 4
From: Pepperell, MA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LQ9/L92
Transmission: 4L60E
Re: 86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
i'm in a similar situation - need to replace everything that's worn out. i'm opting to completely replace the LCAs instead of just rebushing them; for the time and cost it takes to get the bushings and install them, its not much more to get something better
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 2
From: Montreal, Canada
Car: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 310ci (LB9)
Transmission: Custom Rebuilt 700R4 - 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73 Eaton Limited-Slip
Re: 86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
Just go read the sticky at the top of the page, "Ultimate Handling Part 1" and Ultimate handling part 2... There was also another write up by one other guy that should have been a sticky IMO, and it had diagrams and pics and instructions on what you need to change and how to change it.
I have posted other threads about this but I am not getting the answers I am looking for. I read the posts above and they are unclear (to me) also. I really could use some cut and dry information on this topic as I am having a very hard time understanding what I am going to need to get this suspension to where I want it to be. I have an 86 IROC. The steering is loose. The car has a lot of rattles.
I am replacing the springs with an Eibach Pro Kit (1” drop), The struts and shocks are being replaced but I have not chosen a manufacturer yet. I have new tie rods, inner and outer, a new idler arm, new ball joints, and an Energy Suspension kit. The sway bars are stock and I am told those are more than sufficient. I recently ordered LCARB’s but after reading the threads up top I am reconsidering my purchase as I am not seeing the benefit on my 1” dropped car. I am ordering an adjustable pan hard bar. Are there any benefits to replacing the rear control arms? Do I really need the relocation brackets and if so why? What else will I benefit from? I am looking for factory or better handling. I would like the car to launch well, and stop moving all over the road.
Thanks,
Dan
I am replacing the springs with an Eibach Pro Kit (1” drop), The struts and shocks are being replaced but I have not chosen a manufacturer yet. I have new tie rods, inner and outer, a new idler arm, new ball joints, and an Energy Suspension kit. The sway bars are stock and I am told those are more than sufficient. I recently ordered LCARB’s but after reading the threads up top I am reconsidering my purchase as I am not seeing the benefit on my 1” dropped car. I am ordering an adjustable pan hard bar. Are there any benefits to replacing the rear control arms? Do I really need the relocation brackets and if so why? What else will I benefit from? I am looking for factory or better handling. I would like the car to launch well, and stop moving all over the road.
Thanks,
Dan
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 720
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: 86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
Since you have lowered your car LCARB are needed. The geometry is now incorrect. The relocation brackets will allow you to adjust the LCA back into the right position. Also you will need the APHB as well. With the car lowered you have more than likely pushed your rearend to one side and you will get wheel hop.
You didn't mention center link. Was that replaced? Also were all fitting greased properly?
How about your wheel bearing? When you jack the car up in the front and you push on the top and bottom of the wheel, does it move?
You can also look into replacing the strut tower mount. If they are original, they are sure to be worn out and needing replacement.
The list goes on and on. Keep reading you will find what you need guaranteed.
You didn't mention center link. Was that replaced? Also were all fitting greased properly?
How about your wheel bearing? When you jack the car up in the front and you push on the top and bottom of the wheel, does it move?
You can also look into replacing the strut tower mount. If they are original, they are sure to be worn out and needing replacement.
The list goes on and on. Keep reading you will find what you need guaranteed.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 20
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: 86 Iroc Suspension Rebuild Questions
No need for the LCARB on a 1" drop - I've had Eibach Prokit 1" drop for 3 years now with no issues at all. Most LCARB's are installed either for the track where you have monster motor and need to mainatin a precise pinion angle, or folks doing it for the sake of it.
Definitely get the steering brace ie wonderbar if you don't have it already.
STB makes some 'feelable' difference as well.
SFC's really tighten the car up alot - that's next on my list.
Your on the right track - adj panhard, shocks, struts, tie rod, ball joint, idler, springs and new bushings. Get all that done, and see where your at.
Definitely get the steering brace ie wonderbar if you don't have it already.
STB makes some 'feelable' difference as well.
SFC's really tighten the car up alot - that's next on my list.
Your on the right track - adj panhard, shocks, struts, tie rod, ball joint, idler, springs and new bushings. Get all that done, and see where your at.
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