I did some research into anodizing, and it does decrease the fatigue life.
The reason is simple the anodized layer is massively pitted and allows cracks to start forming much more easily, then fatigue cycles do the rest.

If u really want anodized hubs you can do whats called a decorative coating maybe 2 or 3 mircons deep (dont quote me on that lol) that way the peeks and drofts are so small there negligible.

I think your last statement that anodizing has its uses It just depends on what you are doing with the part, is absoultely spot on! There so much on our cars u could anodize part that arent critical or structual where the anodise would be a good way of making part look a little nicer and protecting them alittle better as well, but I would consider the hubs critical! and the more I look into this the less convinced I am

Does anybody know what grade these hubs actually are?
and what the stock ones were?

Wouldnt buy these without knowing as much about them as I possibly can!!

 

Dug this company up from an old post from 2005 with Dean and Ed talking about Aluminum hubs: http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10038-F3

They sell 6061-T6511 billet aluminum hubs. According to Dean in 2005, they were very thin which might mean they aren't up to the task of road racing. Not sure if they changed their product or if anyone has put these to the test yet?

 

I have had them in my car for one season. Car had a fire so they arent being used at the moment, but they are beefy at the flange for the studs. I dont foresee any issues.

 

They also make a road racing version out of 7075. They are very cool, I have a set myself. I do not see them breaking with any kind of use. They also use the larger inner bearing. And they can be customized in many ways like bolt pattern, offset, hub diameter, etc.. Tobin at Kore3 is a very smart guy and does awesome work. Give him a call.

Don't expect a huge weight saving though. They are thick.

 

Here's a pic of the alum hub from Ed. Not sure if all the guesses are correct on who makes them. Absolutely no marks whatsoever on the hubs.
They're beefy and I see no issues with road racing - held up fine at Road America last spring.

 

The one from Kore3 is damn sexy! I will be using these with stock IROC wheels and Ed's LS1 brake kit. I will give Tobin a call and see if everything bolts up directly together. Lighter weight is one thing, but strength + lightweight is even better

EDIT: Also, what is the diff. between press-in and screw in studs in the hub?

 

One presses is and is 12mm the other screws in and is 1/2-20

 

These 1/2-20 should fit the stock IROC wheels with open ended lug nuts. Which lug nuts would fit flush with these studs?

 

Right, closed lug nuts will probably not work. Another option is to cut down the studs.

 

Yes I'll just get open lug nuts, put them on, measure how much stud is left hanging off, cut that excess stud material off, and then put a chome or wtv cap to cover it.

I think these aluminum hubs push the wheel out even further, another 0.3" to be exact..

 

Depends on what spec the hub is made to.

 

You would be wrong, I'm not sure where you got that impression from. As 86 mentioned, it depends on how you spec them.

 

Doh! I just got this off their site and read it too fast:

"KORE3 billet hubs increase track width by the thickness of the rotor being used, .300" [7.62 mm] per side over stock with C5/C6 components, making the overall track width .600" [15.24 mm] wider than stock. Track width is virtually identical to 1LE rotor configuration."


Overall track width means 0.3" per side (as I am running now with LS1 brake kit). For some reason I was thinking 0.6" per side. My bad.

 

Gave Tobin a call. He knows everything there is about aluminum and corrosion properties and all that. Very nice guy took like 20 mins to explain everything I needed to know. He's going to email me measurements to see if his hub will fit with Ed's LS1 front brake kit. I didn't remember exactly what he said but he said he was not sure if it would fit in the rotor maybe? Do you guys know if it will indeed fit?

In terms of strength and corrosion and all that, in my situation, no winter or road salt, no driving below 0 degrees Celsius, and some racing and mostly street driving, he said that it would take a massive impact (such as curb/very deep pothole, collision, etc.) to stress the hub enough to damage it. He said they build so strong so that the spindle would bend before this part breaks.

 

interesting comparison, these are the hubs i had kore3 do over the winter for me, they are built to the 1le spec +.25" to the pad to make my wheels fit properly with no spacers all the way around. The rear of the hub around the bearing is massive


and here is the pad, mine measure .859 thick, which is pretty darn beefy in my book.

 

Yeah the rear of the hub is much larger than mine. Mine are made for OEM offset.

 

I would advise against doing that. That tip on the stud without threads really helps get the lug nut aligned when doing wheel changes. Without it it's really easy to start cross threading the nut if you are in a hurry. I for one always seem to be rushed when I am doing wheel changes at the track. Plus, long wheel studs are very fashionable. I see them and I think "race car". Just something to consider.

And those Kore hubs look amazing. I want them.

 

Thanks Pablo. I'll consider keeping them open.. I don't even drive the thing in the rain anyway so I might just let em "stick out" as a fashion statement as you say lol

Yep those hubs look awesome. Tobin told me he's only done a few jobs where the aluminum was anodized black. Usually they make them clear. Was that a custom job?

 

I don't recall requesting the black. But it wouldn't surprise me as I love black anodized aluminum.

Actually I believe the standard hubs are clear and the road race version is black.

 

That's awesome. I agree. Black = much more sleeker. Black with the ARP studs resembles the color combo of my car! (black/gold IROC lol). It's destiny I get these lol.

 

Did you weigh the roadrace versions?

 

4.47lb with bearing races installed and the 3.5" 1/2"-20 screw in studs.

I'll try to measure an OEM hub tonight.

 

The road race weight bare (without bearing / studs) is about (IIRC) 3.2lbs according to Tobin. That's pretty light IMO!

 

Mine are 3.5lb without studs but with the two bearing races pressed in.

 

87350IROC,

Thanks for the weight comparison. Looks like I will be adding these to the list.

 

Yep. I think the stockers were what 9lbs?

 

I doubt they are that heavy, but I should have one off one of these days.

 

My steel hubs with shorter press in M12 studs and bearings is 7.69lbs. The bearings themselves are less than 1/4lb I would imagine. So figure about a 3lb savings for the road race hubs. Not huge, but better than nothing. Honestly I like the hubs for other reasons than the weight savings. I like the bigger studs and bearings myself. My car is heavy and gets run hard and fast. Overkill is good in my book.

 

Awesome! 3lbs per front wheel. That's 6lbs total (roughly) of rotational/unsprung weight. Do you know if the larger center section will fit in the stock 16" iroc wheels?

 

The hub is the same diameter as stock, 70.3mm

 

Guys,

I may be swapping my hubs out for new ones that are slightly thicker to ease my caliper bracket fitment. So if any of your are interested, I may be selling these new, un-used, never mounted Kore3 hubs. I can take a hit and save you guys a few bucks.

These are the black ones in the pictures above. PM me if interested.

 

that sucks. Using a small slip on spacer behind the rotor is out of the question?

 

I think it would be ok, and so does Tobin. But we would both prefer to not use one. So I figure it'll cost me around $70 to have a pair of spacers made. So I'm offering my hubs for $70 below what I paid. Should be a win-win for someone.

 

What brakes were you trying to run that wont fit right? If the ones you have will work with an LS1 brake swap id be interested. lmk Thanks

 

Check here.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...s-v-brake.html

I'm not sure if the LS1 brake setup requires an OEM or 1LE offset. Would be easy enough for you to find out. Either way there was one other person in front of you. I will PM you if that deal falls through. I don't want to clutter up this thread.