I'm looking for advice on my reassembly. Currently the frame is bare with the exception of the windshield, driver's door, and hatch (pass door frame needs some rust holes taken care of so door has been removed). I'm looking for ANYTHING I can get in Red.

Currently, I have a set of 36/24mm sway bars with red poly bushings. I'll be either painting or powdercoating the bare arms red. I do not have any rear LCAs at this time as my stockers were tossed (both bolts frozen in the pass side). I was looking at this set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...item1e61a06bad I'm not looking for drifting-style handling, but I'd like for my car to at least be able to take turns slightly better than a Dodge Daytona (93 FWD V6). Not interested in Koni, KYB, or any drop springs. The front end of my car has lost significant weight (auto to manual swap, A/C delete, iron to aluminum cylinder heads), and V8 springs will only raise it (which is why I just sent my stock V6 auto/A/C springs to the scrap heap as the car was WAY high in the front compared to the rear). I'm on a low budget, but can hold off as I have plenty of body work to do before reassembly begins. I'm looking at PST's Front End kit, new tie rod sleeves and red boots, new hardware front to back (did I mention I HATE rust and they're all rusted?), strut tower braces top and bottom, a poly torque arm bushing, poly trans mount, and possibly a pair of poly engine mounts if I can find them for the V6. I'm not lowering the rear as my stock springs sag just right for now, so I'm not looking at LCARBs. Need input on the LCA's above and if possibly I can find red bump stops all the way around, and a decent set of bolt-on subframe connectors (which will be welded on later).

Oh, almost forgot... Need input on where I can buy those U-bolts that hold the sway bar bushings to the rear axle. Mine broke upon removal of my stock arm.

 

Ride height for front V8 springs might end up being too high with your weight reduction. You might have to cut the springs, or someone might be able to recommend a part number or spring rate that would suit your combo.

Control arms look good.

Red bump stops - try Energy Suspension, I'm not too sure.

U bolts for the rear sway bar - I would try used, or a spring shop. If you can't come up with anything, they wouldn't be too hard to make yourself out of threaded rod.

 

I forgot to post I was looking at the Moog 5658 springs a lot of FWD V6 guys use to drop the front ends of their cars... The 5658 was used on the S10 and has approximately 300 lb/in lower spring rate at installed height than our 5660/5662 springs as according to http://www.hotrodbuick.com/springs.html .

I'll see what I can find for the sway bar u-bolts. Hopefully I can find some new ones, even if I have to look at the dealer .

I was hoping someone could tell me if the rear LCAs I've been looking at are worth it and will last as opposed to what I'm thinking, which is that they are pretty much useless Chinese pieces of scrap... I've been looking at these for months because of the price (about $30 or so less than even the cheap looking Lakewood square LCAs).

 

Take a look at the enlarged photo of the weld at the end of the control arm. That is not a weld that would pass our quality control and would end up in the scrap bin along with a welder that would be looking for other work. If you want something that is made in the USA and is less money I would suggest looking at our control arms.

http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...trol-Arms.html

 

That's the kind of input I was looking for. And yes, I did notice the weld on the socket end in the enlarged pic. I was thinking that it was just a tossed set only good for the pic, but you never know with those people... I'll keep your LCAs and track bar combo bookmarked for later (the track bar went to the scrap heap the other day with my stock sway bars and strut towers). Only other thing I have to say is that it's too bad that you guys don't sell the hardware as well.

 

The only colored a-arm stops that I'm aware of are from Energy Suspension ENS-9-9150R (they measure 1 3/4", though, IIRC, they're advertised as 2"). However, many members would say that poly bump stops are a poor choice as there is no 'cushioning' at all. OE bump stops, BTW, are 2" for 15" wheels and 2 1/4" for 16" wheels.

ES makes red tie rod boots (Summit ENS-9-13101R) and ball joint boots (ENS-9-13130R)--and, of course, the trans mount. I experienced vibration with both the ES and Prothane mounts, so I went to OE rubber. Following is info and comparison pics on that subject:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ison-pics.html

JamesC

 

Reason I'm looking for a poly trans mount is that I had split 2 in just over 2 years after putting a new one in with the trans in 2006 (original mount split just after swapping in the T5). Changed the second one in summer of 08, and I think the third one the following spring. I didn't do any hardcore stuff with my car like clutch dumps or anything like that, and I'm not really crazy about replacing that piece of junk rubber mount every year (any more than my MAF sensor I've finally deleted).

I'll add the parts above to the list... It's a long list...

 

I hope this is the last question for now:

I'm in need of a front end rebuild kit. I've been looking at PST's kit for years, since I got a CHP mag in 2003 shortly after I bought my car (how I found this site, BTW!), but I see lately that they have a rather shoddy reputation for bad quality. I'm wondering who makes a decent kit. I've seen mixed reviews about most places and am wondering who is running what. About the only part I don't need in terms of the front suspension and steering is the idler arm, as I replaced that within about 6 months of parking and disassembling my car because the old one (factory, I think) was just about to fall apart, and I'm not looking for a pitman arm either.

 

Bringing this back...

Still looking for advice on a front end kit.

Purchased the Founders' sway bar and LCA package an hour ago. Added every single suspension bolt I can purchase new to my parts list and bookmarks from Hawks.

Need advice on the sway bar brace. Had to drill out one of the 3 bolts on the driver's side and now the hole is screwed up so bad I don't think I can rethread it (it's an oval now even though I had a good portion of the hole to align the drill bit). Do I go with 2 bolts, attempt to rethread the third and use all 3, or can I get away with removing the bar altogether (don't know why I can't find bolts for the thing... Could use a new one on the opposite end where it connects to the sway bar bracket as well)?

 

I bought this kit back in 2007 and it's still good:

http://www.youngsfbody.com/inc/sdetail/7404/7406

Not sure what brand it is but back then I remember the inner tie rods not being the right part... If I could do it all over i'd probably go with MOOG just because they will fit properly and are pretty much the best you can buy for this type of thing.

 

I think I've seen some Moog kits on eBay for cheaper than that set, so I'll look into those. I don't really need the idler arm, though (pretty sure I have a Moog one now), but I guess it won't hurt to have a spare. I was actually thinking of something more along the lines of a front bushing kit similar to PST's, which has all the bushings, ball joints, and outer tie rod ends. I'm pretty sure I'm going to end up getting the inner tie rod ends separate and I've been looking at some Eibach (or one of those companies) tie rod adjusting sleeves so that it won't take a gorilla and lots of heat to turn them when I get an alignment.

Also, answered my own question about the rear sway bar parts last night... Found a Spohn set that has the u-bolts for the rear axle (need them as they broke upon removal).

 

I have Spohn's Bump steer kit which replaces the outer tie rod ends. It's a very nice but expensive piece. If your car isn't really lowered it's not really necessary though.

 

I'm hoping the Moog 5658 springs will drop me a bit in the front... I've taken almost 200 pounds off of the front end between losing the A/C, 700R4, and my clunky cast iron cylinder heads. My car sat too high before shedding the weight (guess PO or someone had the wrong springs in or something and downsized the front tires to make up for the difference, 195/65/15's ). FWD V6 guys swear by these springs to lower the front end a bit, so I'll just have to try them and see.

 

Bringing this back from near death...

Last question, as the 88 Z is buttoned up underneath (all new/ish parts except for the rear springs and torque arm/brace) but the 87 isn't and it needs to be to get to wherever it's going to go...

I need new nuts for the ball joints and outer tie rod ends. They came off alright, but they won't go back on for anything, no matter what I try. If anyone has a trick to reinstalling the nuts, could you please share? I get about half the nut on the stud and then the stud starts spinning. Or, can I get new nuts (I'm pretty sure the bottom threads on the ball joint nuts are messed up)?

 

This sometimes works---

The "stud" in the ball joint or TRE is held by the friction of the taper in the hole. I use channel-locks to squeeze the tie rod end and the steering arm together, placing force in the direction of the axis of the threaded stud, if that makes sense. I'm essentially applying the clamping force that the nut will have once it is down tight, and that usually supplies enough friction in the taper to hold the stud while you run the nut down. You'll need BIG channel-locks for the ball joint if I recall.

Does that make any sense?

 

I knew they were held in by friction before the nut... Which is why I've tried whacking them pretty hard with a 5 lb hammer (I really don't care about the grease fittings, honest... The car's going to scrap), and all they do is bounce back out of the hole. I'll have to see what I can manage with locking pliers as I have a pair of big ones for welding clamps...