I ultimately want to lower my v6 F'bird 2-3 inches and set it up better for auto-x including shedding wait where reasonable. The car sags really badly on the driver's side and I was thinking of putting lowering springs on the front which would probably actually raise the driver side. If I lower the front 1" then lighten (relocate battery, a/c removed, fiberglass hood) how much is the front likely to rise back up? Enough to then put on 2" drop spindles? Also, are the lowering springs normally stiffer than the stock springs? I've put on 275 tires so I want stiffer springs so the body is less likely to hit them until I can modify the wheel wells. Any recommendation on springs that would fit the bill?

 

You shouldn't even lower the front with lowering springs it messes up suspension geometry, should just go straight for the lowering spindles as they maintain the correct geometry.
On the rear you should opt for 2" drop coilovers(not on the front though) but you then have to compensate with LCARBS and I believe swap to an adjustable panhard bar as well in order to maintain the rear suspension geometry.
As for whether or not lowering springs are the same spring rates, Idk, but stock spring rates should be fine with those tires I think.

Last but not least, yes if you remove a substantial enough amount of weight the car will sit higher, just look at a car with the engine out sometime, they sit several inches higher in the front, and even with the shortblock back in they often still sit a couple inches higher till all the top end and accessories are bolted back up.
Best bet for compensating is to probably do all your weight reduction and see how the car sits, then go about compensating, though idk what the best way to compensate would be. In the case of the front sitting higher than normal, lowering springs might be the ideal way to bring things back down, but imo wait for someone who knows more than me to chime in on that bit, ideally vetruck.

 

I've read about the front geometry which is why I thought 1 inch lowering then weight reduction might get it back up a little. I've never dealt with non-stock replacement springs and understand the theory of spring rates but not how to calculate what to use. If I only had more money!

 

i will say screw drop spindles. In reality, tha only available ones are racecrafts, and at a 2" drop, are a little extreme. they also have some fitment issues that have come up recently.

i used a set of tall balljoints (1/2" extended), weight jacks and cut low mile stock springs. the stock rate is somewhere around 450 in/lbs. I cut about 4" off the front springs, making them 10" tall free height and adding some rate (mid to high 500's i believe). Im quite happy with them. A little stiffer still would still be good.

rears im using 2.5" IDx10" 150 in/lb coilover springs on weighthacks as well.

 

Appreciate the info. What's the issue with the spindles?

 

TEDSgrad's thread has some of them in it. the steering arm has a reinforcement brace that doesnt clear even the stock 16x8 formy wheels without cutting, and the standard length steering arm wont clear a wheel with more than 5" of bs, and neither do the short arms IIRC. they seem to be solid pieces, but not made for a wide wheel. I guess more for a drag application?

And a 2" spindle is to low to remain drivable on most cars. 1" would probably be ideal