Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Andover, NJ
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA; '84 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350TPI; 5.3 LSx built
Transmission: N/A; T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt; 3.73 10 bolt
Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
As the topic says, do BMR A arms fit on a stock K member? I'm tossed up between BMR and UMI. The BMRs have the spring indexes and bump stops like factory, last I heard UMI was still working to put spring indexes on theirs. I'm not worried about the bump stop, but I want the spring index.
I'm keeping my factory K member, doesn't make sense to go tubular with what I'm building here.
I'm keeping my factory K member, doesn't make sense to go tubular with what I'm building here.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 45
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Car: 1984 Berlinetta
Engine: 305 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
I talked to Lee at BMR via email a few weeks ago and he told me that BMR A arms will work with the stock K member.
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
Honestly I would forget the tubular a-arms and just rebuild your factory parts in that case. There are lots of reports of people having problems with tubular a-arms from all the manufacturers. And this is coming from a Spohn a-arm owner whose arms fit fine. You are just asking for trouble for minimal gain and great cost.
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
no weight savings from the stamped factory ones, so I just did the tubular kmember and am running stock a-arms instead.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
From: Andover, NJ
Car: '88 Trans Am GTA; '84 Trans Am
Engine: L98 350TPI; 5.3 LSx built
Transmission: N/A; T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt; 3.73 10 bolt
Re: Do BMRs fit on a stock K member?
Sorry guys, I've been busy haven't had time to play around on the boards. My stock A arm on the driver's side bent while having new bushings put in. Cost of getting another arm, bushings, paint, ball joints, etc. Seems to be better off just getting a new set of arms all together. I can't recall if any of the resto companies are reproducing factory arms, let alone with polys. I'm not after weight savings too much. What I meant by "it doesn't make sense to go tubular" in my original post was the K member.
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