Suspension/Steering Help
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
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From: Northeast, Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Chevy 305 bored .30 over
Transmission: 700R4
Suspension/Steering Help
Okay so in a nutshell, I need any help I can get in terms of education on the suspension/steering parts on the '91 Camaro. I am not sure what parts are known to wear out the fasted on these cars. My goal for this fix is to make my car smoother riding. So if I could have as much of your feed back as possible as to what parts you have bought and used and how much they cost you, that would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by CHJ37; Jun 20, 2011 at 10:54 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
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From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
IF YOUR LOOKING FOR A CHEAP SMOOTH RIDE THE MONROE SENATRAC SHOCKS AND STRUTS MAKE AN UNBELEIVABLE DIFFERENCE WHEN YOUVE BEEN RIDING ON WORE OUT PARTS. ID START WITH THE SHOCK,STRUTS, THEN SWAY BAR LINKS,AND BUSHINGS.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 5
From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
Bringing your suspension back up to par won't make a smoother ride...it will make it rougher, I haven't even done my front shocks and springs yet(did both on the rear though) or any bushings, and I feel every nook and cranny, if you want a softer ride, you need less aggressive springs and shocks.
Now if you meant to say that you want to firm it back up to new specs, start with putting a poly bushing anywhere there is one except on the rear LCAS, and 1 other spot I can't recall, probably the fronts, but won't hurt anything on the other spot, just isn't ideal), replace the swaybar endlinks as well(get ones with polybushings ofc)
If you want to start actually improving upon original shortcomings, get subframe connectors, rear swaybar if you don't have one, bigger front sway bar, shock tower bar(preferably a triangular one that ties into the firewall as well) subframe to k-member triangle braces(some cars had this factory, some did not).
Other than swaybar endlinks none of the front suspension should ever need replaced unless something breaks(not likely, unless you wreck, or maybe run over something nasty), or occasionally might need tie rod sleeves if they get loose.
If you want prices, check summitracing, some of the specific manufacturer's will probably have prices as well if they sell directly.
Lastly, if you want to know how the components piece and work together....read the stickys, should always search or at least check stickys before asking questions, often times at least some of the answers are already out there, for future reference, then you'll have fewer questions and a better grasp of what answers you get generally.
Now if you meant to say that you want to firm it back up to new specs, start with putting a poly bushing anywhere there is one except on the rear LCAS, and 1 other spot I can't recall, probably the fronts, but won't hurt anything on the other spot, just isn't ideal), replace the swaybar endlinks as well(get ones with polybushings ofc)
If you want to start actually improving upon original shortcomings, get subframe connectors, rear swaybar if you don't have one, bigger front sway bar, shock tower bar(preferably a triangular one that ties into the firewall as well) subframe to k-member triangle braces(some cars had this factory, some did not).
Other than swaybar endlinks none of the front suspension should ever need replaced unless something breaks(not likely, unless you wreck, or maybe run over something nasty), or occasionally might need tie rod sleeves if they get loose.
If you want prices, check summitracing, some of the specific manufacturer's will probably have prices as well if they sell directly.
Lastly, if you want to know how the components piece and work together....read the stickys, should always search or at least check stickys before asking questions, often times at least some of the answers are already out there, for future reference, then you'll have fewer questions and a better grasp of what answers you get generally.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Northeast, Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Chevy 305 bored .30 over
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
Bringing your suspension back up to par won't make a smoother ride...it will make it rougher, I haven't even done my front shocks and springs yet(did both on the rear though) or any bushings, and I feel every nook and cranny, if you want a softer ride, you need less aggressive springs and shocks.
Now if you meant to say that you want to firm it back up to new specs, start with putting a poly bushing anywhere there is one except on the rear LCAS, and 1 other spot I can't recall, probably the fronts, but won't hurt anything on the other spot, just isn't ideal), replace the swaybar endlinks as well(get ones with polybushings ofc)
If you want to start actually improving upon original shortcomings, get subframe connectors, rear swaybar if you don't have one, bigger front sway bar, shock tower bar(preferably a triangular one that ties into the firewall as well) subframe to k-member triangle braces(some cars had this factory, some did not).
Other than swaybar endlinks none of the front suspension should ever need replaced unless something breaks(not likely, unless you wreck, or maybe run over something nasty), or occasionally might need tie rod sleeves if they get loose.
If you want prices, check summitracing, some of the specific manufacturer's will probably have prices as well if they sell directly.
Lastly, if you want to know how the components piece and work together....read the stickys, should always search or at least check stickys before asking questions, often times at least some of the answers are already out there, for future reference, then you'll have fewer questions and a better grasp of what answers you get generally.
Now if you meant to say that you want to firm it back up to new specs, start with putting a poly bushing anywhere there is one except on the rear LCAS, and 1 other spot I can't recall, probably the fronts, but won't hurt anything on the other spot, just isn't ideal), replace the swaybar endlinks as well(get ones with polybushings ofc)
If you want to start actually improving upon original shortcomings, get subframe connectors, rear swaybar if you don't have one, bigger front sway bar, shock tower bar(preferably a triangular one that ties into the firewall as well) subframe to k-member triangle braces(some cars had this factory, some did not).
Other than swaybar endlinks none of the front suspension should ever need replaced unless something breaks(not likely, unless you wreck, or maybe run over something nasty), or occasionally might need tie rod sleeves if they get loose.
If you want prices, check summitracing, some of the specific manufacturer's will probably have prices as well if they sell directly.
Lastly, if you want to know how the components piece and work together....read the stickys, should always search or at least check stickys before asking questions, often times at least some of the answers are already out there, for future reference, then you'll have fewer questions and a better grasp of what answers you get generally.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
DEPENDS ON WHATS WORN OR LOOSE. YOU'LL HAVE TO ELEVATE THE FRONT OF THE CAR. EASY WAY IS. ROCK THE WHEEL UP AND DOWN AND IF THERES PLAY YOU NEED TO TIGHTEN OR REPLACE WHEELBEARINGS. SHAKE THE WHEEL LEFT AND RIGHT AND LOOK AT YOUR LINKAGES TO SEE IF THERE IS PLAY. AND WHERE THE PLAY IS AT. TIE ROD ENDS, PITMAN ARM, INNER TIEROD. ETC
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 5
From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
Steering play is generally swaybar end links, if its the suspension. Otherwise it would be the steering box I believe, since I'm pretty sure the steering wheel is hardmounted to the shaft, in which case thats the only other place you could have play, but not likely for the gears to wear out that much, most likely end links. tie rod sleeves don't generally come loose, but its possible ofc.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
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From: Northeast, Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Chevy 305 bored .30 over
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
Alright well thanks. I'll have to get the car back up in the air and check this all out. Thanks for the helps guys!
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
The first thing I would do is replace all steering components. If they are stock, they are worn out and need to be replaced. Those parts are the, inner and outer tie rods, upgraded tie rod sleeve (factory one is known to bend and stretch if you are not easy on your car), center link, and idler arm. Pitman arm is a non-wear item. Sphon has a kit for around $300 and it is all good quality parts. Then take a look at your bushings, (a-arms, front and rear sway bar, LCAs) if they are cracked I would replace them. Also look at the ball joints, if they look good, just grease them no need to replace them.
If your shocks and struts are worn out, KYB make a great entry level setup for around $200 for all four.
Next would be your springs. If they are original then they might be worn out. Moog makes a factory replacement spring that people love. If you want to go lower Eibach would one to look into.
Not sure if the '91 came with a wonderbar or not, but that would be something to look into. It helps to tie the frame together in front of the k-member. It also help prevent (not completely get rid of) cracks near the steering box.
That should get your car back running to factory specs. Now if you want to go beyond that then just do some research and you will find limitless options, coilovers, STB, SFC, upgraded LCAs, LCARB, upgraded PHB, Watts links, etc...
If your shocks and struts are worn out, KYB make a great entry level setup for around $200 for all four.
Next would be your springs. If they are original then they might be worn out. Moog makes a factory replacement spring that people love. If you want to go lower Eibach would one to look into.
Not sure if the '91 came with a wonderbar or not, but that would be something to look into. It helps to tie the frame together in front of the k-member. It also help prevent (not completely get rid of) cracks near the steering box.
That should get your car back running to factory specs. Now if you want to go beyond that then just do some research and you will find limitless options, coilovers, STB, SFC, upgraded LCAs, LCARB, upgraded PHB, Watts links, etc...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Northeast, Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Chevy 305 bored .30 over
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
The first thing I would do is replace all steering components. If they are stock, they are worn out and need to be replaced. Those parts are the, inner and outer tie rods, upgraded tie rod sleeve (factory one is known to bend and stretch if you are not easy on your car), center link, and idler arm. Pitman arm is a non-wear item. Sphon has a kit for around $300 and it is all good quality parts. Then take a look at your bushings, (a-arms, front and rear sway bar, LCAs) if they are cracked I would replace them. Also look at the ball joints, if they look good, just grease them no need to replace them.
If your shocks and struts are worn out, KYB make a great entry level setup for around $200 for all four.
Next would be your springs. If they are original then they might be worn out. Moog makes a factory replacement spring that people love. If you want to go lower Eibach would one to look into.
Not sure if the '91 came with a wonderbar or not, but that would be something to look into. It helps to tie the frame together in front of the k-member. It also help prevent (not completely get rid of) cracks near the steering box.
That should get your car back running to factory specs. Now if you want to go beyond that then just do some research and you will find limitless options, coilovers, STB, SFC, upgraded LCAs, LCARB, upgraded PHB, Watts links, etc...
If your shocks and struts are worn out, KYB make a great entry level setup for around $200 for all four.
Next would be your springs. If they are original then they might be worn out. Moog makes a factory replacement spring that people love. If you want to go lower Eibach would one to look into.
Not sure if the '91 came with a wonderbar or not, but that would be something to look into. It helps to tie the frame together in front of the k-member. It also help prevent (not completely get rid of) cracks near the steering box.
That should get your car back running to factory specs. Now if you want to go beyond that then just do some research and you will find limitless options, coilovers, STB, SFC, upgraded LCAs, LCARB, upgraded PHB, Watts links, etc...
For the Spohn kit:
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html
For bushings:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-7-2008/
Do you think those parts will work? I think the only think left that I'll need is the sway bar bushings...
Do you think I'll need to do the sway bar upgrades like mentioned above? If not, what are the signs of needing the new sway bar(s)?
Thanks a ton!
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
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From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
thats lookin good man ought to be ridin good with all of that. the sway bars basically just control the body roll and stance. if youve got the rs youve got the basic sway bar which just isnt as thick as say a z28 suspension. But put all your bushings in and sway bar links and if your going to be doing light driving youll be fine for better handling for say a autocourse the bigger sway bars would be ideal
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From: Shakopee, Mn
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
I don't think you are going to need to upgrade your sway bars. As said, if you have an RS they are just slightly smaller, if you have the Z28 then you have the better ones and will not need to upgrade until you get into competitive driving. The sway bar is a non-wear item and you will only need to change the bushings. First you will need to measure the width of the bars and then you can buy the correct bushings.
The Spohn kit is exactly what you need and will improve the steering by quite a bit.
The one thing to keep in mind with the bushing kit is, what do you plan on doing in the near future. If you are going to lower your car the end links are not going to work. If you are going to upgrade your LCAs (lower control arms) you will be pouring money away by buying that kit. If you plan on riding at stock height, and not upgrading other parts, for a long time to come, then that kit will be just fine.
Keep asking the questions. I know I have wasted money on items over the many years I have been doing this and certainly wished I asked the questions first.
The Spohn kit is exactly what you need and will improve the steering by quite a bit.
The one thing to keep in mind with the bushing kit is, what do you plan on doing in the near future. If you are going to lower your car the end links are not going to work. If you are going to upgrade your LCAs (lower control arms) you will be pouring money away by buying that kit. If you plan on riding at stock height, and not upgrading other parts, for a long time to come, then that kit will be just fine.
Keep asking the questions. I know I have wasted money on items over the many years I have been doing this and certainly wished I asked the questions first.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 46
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From: Northeast, Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Chevy 305 bored .30 over
Transmission: 700R4
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
Wow guys. Thanks for all of the feedback, input, and education. I'm trying to do all of this so I have no regrets and I save money. For the future of the car, I don't plan on lowering it nor do plan on doing any competitive driving so hopefully this all works out. Thanks guys!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
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From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
when you start with the rear suspension. look up the edelbrock pro touring kit. its like 1200 bucks but it comes with everything!!! including one inch lowering springs which doesn't mess with any of the other components at all
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
THERE'S NOTHING IN THE REAR of these cars! Just sway bar, springs, cheap shocks, panhard bar, LCA's. Where is the $1200? I'd run from that and fast!
Eibach springs are $249 for all 4, Bilstein's/Koni's are $100 each side for the rear, end links and sway bar bushings are under $60 for poly, a new adjustable panhard bar is $120. $500 so far - add LCA's and your still under 1/2 of that $1200!
For $1200, it ought to come with a new rear axle, disc brakes, and posi unit!
RUN from that "deal" - that's
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
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From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
that is for track bar, panhard, lca's, front and rear full sway bars, front and rear coils, and bushings. and if you do a google search your looking at 900.00 thats not bad for a full set up minus steering components
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
why pay a couple hunderd bux for sway bars when there is nothing wrong with factory parts? you can get much better parts than are in that kit for much less.
OP, first things first before buying all the shiny stuff. New, good, tires, and shocks and struts. Forget monroe and gabriel, your better off spending money here. good parts cost money and you get what you pay for.
New brake rotors and pads, or shoes if you have drums.
check the front steering parts and replace as needed.
this will give you the most noticeable difference in feel.
after that, you can delve into other parts if you want to, but if you are just cruising with the car, no need to spend big bux on fancy powdercoated parts. New bushings in the rear control arms and panhard bar are cheap upgrades and will keep the ride quality together. front control arm bushigns can be done too, but you have to disassemble the front suspension completely to change them.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 5
From: PA
Car: 1996 Camaro, 1985 Camaro
Engine: 3.8, 3.4
Transmission: WC T5, 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23(?), 3.42
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
You can't, or rather SHOULDN'T lower the rear without putting in LCARBs and adjustable panhard.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
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From: CURRENTLY COLUMBIA,SC
Car: 91 RS CONVERT.
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Suspension/Steering Help
well not trying to start anything or looking to hear everyones opinion but my 85 z28 ive got a three inch drop on the rear with factory suspension. and my center is dead one with no hop




