I am thinking about building my rear end to stock form - as long as I stay away from sticky tires with 500hp, should it be fine, or does it not matter?

 

You still roll the dice. Street cars with factory tires have broken the tiny 10 bolt diff. Building a high HP engine then driving it like a granny so you don't break anything doesn't make any sense. You're building an engine to enjoy but are limiting your options to use it.

Drive it to enjoy and if you break the diff, then decide if it's worth the extra money to upgrade to something better.

 

Not sure about your title question. The less traction you have the less strain there is on the drive train. Lots of traction is what will shorten diff life.

 

It will die if you foot gets into it to much. Lift fast on wheel hop, don't power through.

Spinning the tires doesn't get ya anywhere fast n e ways..........

 

In my monte carlo, I shredded the stock 7 5/8" , 3.73 ring gear with 353 rwhp, corrected. I was at 4400 elevation the whole time I had that set up, which means I was actually only making about 290 rwhp. It had a 1 tire fryer with 275mm bfg drag radials. I switched to a T56, and 275mm street tires, 2 weeks after the swap, while grabbing 2nd gear, the axle locked up and sent the driveshaft a tumblin'. The entire inside diameter of the ring gear was shredded, the pinion was in similar condition. I was scooping up gear bits with my hand when I tore the cover off. I'de say dont risk it. That little ring and pinion sux.

 

A long time ago I helped put a Cadillac 472 in front of a TH350 in a 72 Cutlass. Bolted right up but needed the exhaust manifolds reconfigured. It was a blast winding up the axle and doing monster burn outs. The amazing thing is the TH350 lasted nearly a month before the diff disintegrated! One of them had to go first. It wasn't my car of course. I did have a TH400 and posi behind a 455HO and that never broke but I didn't burn it out too often. As they say don't do the crime if you can't do the time.

 

I would say that a D.D. 305 TBI,700r4 transmission, with street tires (like mine) can live with a up-graded 10 bolt. ( and I get on it some with no problems so far )Anything more than that is best off with the 9in. or 12 bolt.

 

i just busted my ninebolt rear end not to long ago.. with unported l98 heads mind you. and they are supposed to be a tad stronger than the 10 bolt... my next rear is going to be a strange 12 bolt

 

My car was doing okay on the stock 10 bolt until I went with IROC wheels (MUCH wider tires than what I had on) and grenaded the rear end within a week. I took a chance and had that rear end rebuilt with stronger gears and an eaton rear dif. Hope it'll last...

 

to the original poster..... do yourself a favor and grab this

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...osiunit-1.aspx

you will thank yourself later...

thats what im getting when money allows it...

 

Thats a really nice unit for 2,300.00 + 150.00 for the Eaton added on + 200.00 for the powered coat if you don't want bare steel.+ 65.00 for 33 spline = 2,715.00 I would imagine that's with the Gears and Eaton already set up. Don't forget the Support cover + 135.00 = 2,850.00 ( I think my math is correct)Please don't get me wrong because you get what you pay for and that's got to be one of the top of the line.To the poster 68 Strat, buy a Support Cover it will help allot = http://www.lpwracing.com/Diff_Cover_...omparison.html
This is what I bought and were I bought it. = http://www.jegs.com/i/L.P.W./619/301-7.5G/10002/-1