tjtaylor

this is pretty much the first time anybody but my coworkers and family have seen this car, its been kept under wraps until we complete it for the wonderful first ride. But we have come across a few problems and i need your help to fix this. Everything is new in the rear end of the car at the moment. we have full umi suspension with only adj torque arm and panhard bar. i ran all this suspension on the car before the makeover other than the moser 9 inch.

the problem we have is that i dont wanna wreck this freshly painted floor by moving the torque arm over a set of holes. if i was to do this and use the inner holes closet to the mount, the ta would be rubbing against not only the floor but my ebrake brakets as well. and ruining my new paint. i know my problem isnt with the umi stuff because i used it before. though it would be helpful if they chime in and give me advice.

moser wants to solve this problem by taking the rear end back and setting it up with the jig. i cant really afford to take this back out and wait. plus its already powdercoated and everything.

my question for you is what should i do? the ta doesnt line up with the cross member at all. we had to use a pry bar to fit it in place in the pics below. should i leave it how it is? or is there a fix? (questioning how much it will matter if the ta is slightly bent from it being so far off)

brando54009

just a quick question... did you put your car on a frame rack to make sure it was strait before you did everything? if it was tweaked from the start then you might need to get it back to strait for anything to really match up well

tjtaylor

no no frame rack checking here. like i said though everything fit perfect before i swapped the rear end, i think the three tubes the ta bracket is bolted to are welded crooked. ill get a picture today of what the ta looked like before we pryed it over. here is how close the ta is to my e brake cable bracket on the outer set of holes in the post above

UMI Sales

Hmm, when you saw show car, how many miles per year? Moving the torque arm nose to get it in the bushing isn't ideal but all that stuff is so strong it might not matter.

Did Moser think they had a jig error?

ramey

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Agreed, if its really a show car, who cars if anything works. Maybe I don't get the purpose of a show car???

tjtaylor

okay well maybe im not using the right word. In my book, show car does not equal trailer queen. my Camaro will be driven to three shows a week, and work and back too. definatly not going to be sitting.

to UMI thank you for responding here. ill be putting probably 3000 miles a year on it. here are some photos of where the ta was laying before we pryed it over. also a photo of the tubes that i believe are the whole problme here. they arent welded straight with the axle. if anyone else has a moser 9 inch could you post up pics of how the tubes are on yours?

makingPAIN

wow i dont know how to fix your problem sorry, but i just had to add that i wish the underside of my f body looked that good i would put in on the lift and just glare at it for hours beautiful job hahahaahha good luck man

thisjustaintme

Take that rearend back to moser im gonna have to agree it needs to be put on there jig something isnt straight back there

tjtaylor

you think for sure that its fishy? and thank you for the compliment i hope to get lots more when im done.

UMI Sales

Agree with the "clean car". Very nice job!

tjtaylor

Thank you UMI! that means alot. I'm worried that if I send it back, i wont drive it at all this season, and plus if that bracket gets shifted to where it is supposed to be does that mean the ta will hit the e-brake bracket on the left side of the tunnel? its quite close there..

what will happen if i leave it how it is and pry that ta over and inch or so and let it somewhat bend? Im not trying to half *** anything at all, just dont wanna ruin my floor.. i plan on running this at my local drag strip as well, (dragway42) will the slight bend in the ta affect how i launch?

BADNBLK

iTrader: (11)

Beautiful car from what can be seen from the underside.

I think I would bend it over slightly and see how that works. I think since it is a quality aftermarket unit it can handle the slight sideloading. I would suspect that the flange on the Moser was built with the stamped steel unit in mind, and never thought about the width of the tube steel performance unit. Good luck, and hope to see the top side of beast soon

tjtaylor

I would hope it can hold the slight side load.. And thank you for the compliment! The top sides done. Just mysteriously hiding

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

If you say you don't wanna use the other set of holes, simply because of scratching the paint....UNDER the car, well, I respect that. BUT....driving the car like you say you're going to is gonna create just as many imperfections. If the fix is as simple as moving to the other set of holes, that's what I'd do.

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

nice, nice car. Rotisary (sp)? I would like to do this as well, but not with paint, prob some kind of under coating.
And I would just try the other holes.

tjtaylor

I don't think moving it to the other set of holes is that simple. I you look at one of the photos the ta is almost already touching the ebrake bracket. If I move it over an inch to the other holes I'll be into the floor

And thank you for saying its nice, I wanna keep it that way. I realize it might get scratched and chipped driving it, but I want to keep it nice even before I start driving it. And no I didn't do a rotisserie, I did it all on this rack here. Idk why sp means though

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Kinda suprised no one has told you yet...

I'm running a 9" Moser rear, UMI TQ arm and TQ arm relocation trans mount.

The upper part of the torque arm mount in the rear WILL hit the floorboard when you hit large bumps, or going over R/R tracks etc..you'll see where it'll hit. The Moser rear is physically much larger than the rear you took out. I need to push the front of my TQ arm over every time I install it....so I guess what I'm saying is that Moser's jig has always pointed the TQ arm at that angle after the rear mount is bolted up. Moser would need to re-angle the TQ arm mount on the rear, not the whole rear itself, if that makes sense. I had to do a little grinding on the mount itself to make it better, but it's still not perfect.

Also, If your car is lowered, your e-brake cable WILL rub on the top of the TQ arm too. I had a nice Lokar cable, and my E-brake worked fine until I lowered my car...and after I did lower it, I discovered the cable beginning to saw at the top of the upper tube on the torque arm.

Every time the suspension bumps upward in the rear, the TQ arm goes into the trans tunnel further, which was actually causing my rear brakes to apply slightly and squeak. I had to disconnect my e-brake for now and I need to relocate my cable brackets so the cable won't rub the TQ arm. The rear mount will hit the floorboard more often too.

Honestly, even though the 9" is a strong rear, if I did it all over again I'd opt for a Chevy 12 bolt....I've not heard of these issues using those.

EDIT: - And if you use the other set of holes, it won't help...it'll still hit the floorboard...it's way off if you try it that way...at least it was on mine.

tjtaylor

ugh i researched around and saw that other people have had this problem of it hitting, but no fixes.. so the problem is moser's jig is set up wrong with welding the tubes at the wrong angle? i was thinking of two fixes.
1- leave the bar in the left set of holes and bend the ta into the trans cross relocation member. and just let it bend and drive it and see what happens.
2- put some type of angled spacer in between the ta bracket from moser and the tubes and see if it will reangle the ta bracket enough so it wont hit anything.

also im not lowered either. new stock height springs. which set of holes are using? any chance moser's ta would fit correclty without any of these problems? i appreciate the time for you to answer my question.
do my fixes sound resonable?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

The 3 mounting tubes on my Moser are strait/flush with the axles and stuff. Mine is a very early built rear, they were still using beatup junkyard housings, which mine kind of is.!

1. You could slot the TQ arm mount holes to move the TQ mounting bracket straight. (I did this)

2. You could use 6 angled shim washers on the 3 mounting studs to mount the arm bracket straight and that will keep the mounting bolts inline with the tubes. (hard to do)

3.You could also ditch the 2solid mounts and use a spherical rod end bearing.(my TQarm already had these)

Ditch this


for this


Doing this will allow for a little movement.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

As TTop says, the easiest fix for the angle is to oblong the holes slightly in the rear mount. I WOULD NOT try to bend the arm...it might comprimise the strength of it, and besides..it would be pretty tough to bend anyways. It won't have any effect on how it works because the arm prevents the rear from twisting up/dowm, not side-to-side.

Seems you have the bolts in there...it's not going to hurt anything as is. It is a pain every time you need to remove/replace it though. Unbolt the front first, and it's much easier to get the long rear bolts out.

I am using the same set of holes you are - I didn't see any improvement by using the other set, except that it sits too close to the side of the tunnel then, and the angle was worse as I recall.

-But it's only going to fix the angle, not the fact that it's going to still hit the floorboard - Just not as bad on a stock height car. The upper corner of the TQ arm is going to hit unless you cut out the affected area and weld in a concave piece in it's place. It's under the rear seat, and won't interfere with seat mounting or anything. No one will know it's there besides you. Mine kind of molded itself after a while, but I don't haul people in my back seat....nowadays, it might tap a little if I'm going over railroad tracks going fast...I don't recommend that anyways.

As I said, this rear is just plain "BIGGER"....and it's trying to take up the space the smaller one did...and then some.

tjtaylor

so i think thats where the problem lies then, is that the tubes are not welded straight.. i am going to try and find some rod ends maybe, then just pry the arm over a bit?. when i get it running here ill let you know if it is affecting how i lauch or not. and your right about it only fixing the angle. i hope it doesnt smash it up tooo bad. i have to put some wheels on it so i can put it up to ride height and see where that takes me.

also i understand its physically bigger dont get me wrong on that. i just wish it was perfect considering we all pay around 3600 for a rear end that hits things.. i appreciate the help you all have gave! ill post more pics as time comes

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

It doesn't affect my launch at all...when I get traction. I felt the same way when I discovered all this...pretty darn disappointed considering the coin you spend on this stuff. At least, when you first take it out and go over a big hump, you'll know what the "bang" is. I didn't and it I thought I broke something...it freaked me out!! It'll subside as it clearances itself.

thisjustaintme

You do not want the torque arm side loaded and do not oblong the holes get this corrected I learned the hard way years ago when my paracing torque arm was not rite I oblonged the holes and forced the torque arm over well at half track It vibrated pretty bad and broke the driveshaft loop and came through the floor in Two spots best solution to this whole thing is if you ever do it again get a torque arm/ rearend setup from Midwest chassis or racecraft my car is as long as I can possibly get it anf it doeant hit the tunnel or in the rear where most have to notch the tunnel

red406

iTrader: (4)

I had Moser 9" rear end and a non adjustable Edelbrock torque arm on my Camaro. The fit was terrible. The arm rubbed the tunnel and was in a bind all the time. I switched back to the stock torque arm. No more rubbing or forcing anything to line up.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I don't know if his TQ arm is rubbing the tunnel....I know mine doesn't, and no binding at all....but the overall fit is terrible.

red406

iTrader: (4)

Mine only rubbed when I hit a bump in the road. My car was lowered too.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

I have a moser and a umi crossmember mounter TA. It lines up well, but the torque arm bracket on the moser rear hits the floor behind the back seat and made a hole actually. The bracket on the torque arm itself lightly rubs the side of the tunnel occionally, but that's it. Sounds like you have issues with the axle.

By chance, are the lca's adjustable? Is the axle square in the car?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I have a Moser 9", aluminum center section, adjst control arms, random tech tq arm and eibach springs.
The rear upper mount bolt smacked the floor a lil bit and the TQ arm lightly rubs the trans tunnel about midway down the tunnel.

tjtaylor

No unfortunately they are not adjustable. I had lcarbs and now those dont fit either. The axle is square in the car. I was getting a little side tracked lately.. We're tryin to build the motor

tjtaylor

here we go, before and the after of painted bottom and the way the torque arm was.. what do you think?? i think the rear end is messed and and so do you..

Lonnie P

Personally I would try to oval-out the front torque arm mounting hole.
I would guess 1/8" would be enough to straighten the torque arm out.

Remove the front bolt & straighten the torque arm & see how much the bolt hole is off.

The bracket on the rear definitely looks to be off... not much you can do with it other than return it & deal with the aggravation of damaging the powdercoat etc.