Just a question on weather to use adj. Control arm, torque arm, panhard or just aftermarket sry UMI replacement pieces tubular. Here is my experience with stock stuff. Only thing my car had was subframes and drag radials and a ES torque arm bushing I pulled consistant 1.7 short times 12.60 111mph. I have a set of Spohn adjustable lower arms now but since I have been using the UMI pieces i plan on getting a torque arm but just wanted a fixed one. Basically what am I missing out on if everything is fixed non adjustable in a street strip car that doesnt live at the strip? Plan on getting the UMI stuff, just really impressed with the quality since I got my K Member from them. Thanks

 

Keep in mind, neither of those things are for "tuning", the way you'd "tune" a 4-link or the like. They would be pretty much set-&-forget.

Adj LCAs are virtually NEVER required in these cars. All they do, is change the wheelbase. They are sold merely because people demand them. I would stick with non-adj those.

Adj Panhard OTOH, sometimes IS necessary; particularly if the car is at a different height from stock. Getting an adj that might be wise.

 

Agreed.

Panhard is a good one to get adjustable as the axle may need to be moved to one side or another depending on ride height.

And if you change the TQ arm, you should go for an adjustable one where you can dial in the pinion angle for maximum traction.

 

I know 2 people that "thought" this was sensible advice and bought soild LCA's- to later have to buy adjustable ones once we made other modifications to the car

 

Agreed. On top of that they are nice on even a very mild car to dial in the thrust angle during alignment.

 

Can you adjust pinion angle if the lca are fixed units? If your looking for max et the adjustable torque arm is warrented but what about stock? I mean the stock 9 bolt is strong , I never run slicks so I just dont break it. I dont know what is considered a good short time on a radial street car and or what people have pulled with the 9 bolt. I pulled those short times on all stock suspension. ( low mile car) Used to constanlty rip the tranny mount but hey ever seen how thin the rubber is. Is the aftermarket really going to give that much more traction? Just like alot of opinions on what people have used. Thanks

 

I can tell you from my experience, just spend the few extra bucks and get the adjustable stuff.

My car was stock height when I bought my non-adjustable UMI TQ arm, but after I put a nice set of 17" wheels on the car, and it just didn't look right so I lowered it. I was really lucky in that my pinion angle ended up still well within where it should be (around -2 degrees or something like that)....but - I have a Moser rear in mine. I may have not been nearly as lucky if I had my stock 10 bolt still in it.

I guess if you REALLY have no future plans and keep everything stock height, and keep it mainly a street car - then the non-adjustable stuff is just fine. But - the adjustable stuff gives you room to tweak on existing settings for increased 60ft times, etc. at the track. I understand your dilemma, but if I did it all over again, I'd spend the difference and get adjustable....just in case.

 

Which is why I purchased the adjustable version.

JamesC

 

TO further add- I used mine to purposely shorten my wheelbase not only for quicker vehicle rotation, but to also help induce roll understeer by having shorter geometry of the arms to increase angle changes.

I needed to lengthen them prior to dropping the driveshaft, so even fixed shorter ones would have cause me a nightmare of pulling the whole rear suspension apart just to get my driveshaft out to change u-joints, or pull the trans etc.

Just showing what adjustments you have to your advantage when you learn what you can do with those settings. By a performance suspension book and read before you by that (any) particular suspension part so you have a better understanding what that part effects based on how it is set.

Dean