I'm ready to lower my car and get my perfect stance.

I am not worried so much about the chin spoiler or under carriage bottoming out since I am running a larger wheel. I'm just concerned about the top of the tire rubbing the front fender. What is a safe distance from the top of the front tire to the fender?

I'm running moog 5662 with KYB GR2 struts.



I know what I am asking is VERY vague and allows many variables, but I just want a generalization before I start cutting.

I tend to over think things.

 

Larger wheels only make a difference if the diameter of the tire is larger. 25.7" is average tire diameter. Check the lowered 3rd gens thread here in the suspension board. Quite a few fender height measurements in there.

 

what tire are your running? that will tell a lot

 

I should of worded it better, I'm not looking for fender height, I'm looking for fender gap. I've gone through the lowered thread a while back and didn't see much about fender gap measurement. I will look again

sailtexas186548
I'm running a 245/35/19 up front. Its 26" tall. My fender is at 28.5"

 

I have oem 25.65 tires. Front fender height = 26.75; rear = 27.5
245 tire tucks in and no rub.
Do you have tall strut mounts? What struts?
I don't have the determination or patience to fiddle with springs in and out, in and out; equalizing sides (forget about scaling)--> Weight jacks

 

plum92_camaro, I re-read your post and realized what you meant. If my tire is 26" tall then the fender heights in the lowered thread will apply to me.

TEDSgrad

I don't have tall strut mounts, and I'm running new KYB Gr2 struts. I'm now wishing that I went with weight jacks instead of buying new springs. So about an 1.25" seems safe. I am looking for that lowered look.

How much would a weight jack kit cost for just the front?

 

weight jack here: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-2...bly,23487.html
plate goes with: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/WEIGHT...LATE,6509.html

Here's my install: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...g-vetruck.html

Not for the faint of heart, but it's better and cheaper than the ground control route, which most do. You'll need to cut, grind, and weld; otherwise, go with ground control. These articulate (swivel cup) and have less unsprung weight to them.

 

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ut-Mounts.html

You should do these first - low hanging fruit. While you have the front end apart, do the weight jacks.

 

What that is?

 

Shorter than standard springs, with threaded adjustable pieces so that you can simply twist to raise or lower a car to set the height where YOU want it, not where the spring manufacturer says it will be. These are the drop-in Ground Control units.

 

TEDSgrad I went through your thread and that involves too much fab work for me. I can't weld so I would have to have a shop do all of that for me.

So drop in ground control seems the way to go, however I'm not willing to spend $400 for front and rear at the moment. I can't find anyone that will sell just the front either.


Would it be a bad idea to have a fab shop make some for me?

 

It's been discussed in a few threads, and if they're done right it's okay. A company called Allstar makes rear adjuster parts and you can put two together for about $80, so after that you'd only need the front adjusters. Springs are about $60 a piece, so you're looking at $240 for all 4 corners there, $320 with the rear adjusters included. If you could find a good shop that knows what they're doing to make the front two for you for under $130 you'd come out ahead. On the other hand, the GC setup is shiny and powdercoated, ready to go out of the box, and has a lifetime warranty.

 

The usual dilema; own time & labor vs paying out.
If you can get a jy k- member, shouldn't be too much to have those plates welded in for you, then swap k-members.
Always thought someone could make money fabing them up, especially notched for swaps.

 

I have ground control weight jacks. I installed them with Koni yellows and Hotpart/J&M products caster camber plates. The raised strut mounts and Koni's don't hang/extend as far as stock. to much preload and too close to coil bind for me to get to stock height but I'm ok with that. I bought them to go lower and perform well.

 

Here's a pic from today. Use the bucket (lower left) and bench as height guides.

 

Looks perfect!

 

I run a 23.8" tall front tire, and can just slide my hand between the tire and fender. NO rubbing but it is LOW. A taller tire and it would rub