How long did it take you to install an aftermarket K-member (preferably go from a running/driving car to a running/driving car)? Did you do anything else at the same time? Was there anything that really sucked about the job? Any hangups? Any unexpected problems?

 

Nobody? I know people have installed them here...

 

Took me a weekend, lining up motor mounts was the hardest part. I have an engine support that supports the engine from above, pretty cheap from harbour freight. But I dotn know your ability level or working conditions so I can say this a fair assesment of time. Depends on what k member you are using and what tje condition of the car is. Its things are all rusty and siezed, you could spend a week wrenching on it
Its a good time to do spring struts and control arm bushings.

 

I used an engine hoist for mine and I replaced the A-Arms with their tubular ones also. I also replaced the entire front suspension and steering so I was installing all new parts and hardware which made it easier. Start to finish I would agree with a full two day weekend sun up to sun down. It's all easy to do, it's just that there are many parts and fine adjustments.

 

Ability level, probably better than most, working conditions... well that's why I'm asking. I'm debating asking a friend if he'd be up to helping/letting me use his garage (he has a 45x60' garage with a lift...), where I can't get anything in my garage right now, but I have better tools and he's an hour away, which if it's going to take more than a day or 2 is going to get _really_ old.

What I'm planning on doing:

• I ordered UMI K-member and LCA's with delrin bushings during their labor day sale.
• I have a set of Koni yellows from a previous project
• I'm working on a set of drop spindles, mostly done, just need to finish welding bracing and put some sort of finish on them
• Thinking of doing weight jacks of sorts for the setup, my previous thread about that was shot down by a jackass, not sure if I'm just going to weld something to the UMI K-member/cut a hole in the subframe or adapt the GC setup (GC claims it _will not_ work with drop spindles, don't know why), or ?
• Brake swap to to with the spindles... I want to be able to run 15" wheels still so I'll probably go with 'vette C4 non HD on the front (though I'm considering trying to put together a 1LE swap)
• Considering solid motor mounts
• Astro/Safari steering shaft (don't like the idea that the u joints are not clocked when this is done, tempted to figure something better out or possibly cut it apart/machine it and reweld it), this shouldn't affect the swap much
• I _don't think_ any of my steering components are worn out but my steering is a little off so I swap out the wear components at the same time
• I may grab a set of camber caster plates, though if i could figure out a bearing assembly for the top I would probably just cut a set apart and make my own
• I don't know, what else should I do? I have a PHR, LCA's, 2 TA's (jegster and SSM), subframe connectors (SSM), PRH relocation brackets (I made), LCA Relo brackets (I made)... from other projects/gathered for this project, but if I run out of time they will all be separate projects, especially the parts that weld to the axle, which will probably wait till I swap the Moser 9" in)

Honestly, i'm not sure how much time all this will add to the swap, I can assemble the struts, spindles, brakes... as an assembly and just bolt it on when I do the swap, that should actually save me time since I won't have to disassemble the stock parts and put them back together, the only thing that will add time would be bleeding the new brakes...

 

I did mine with engine out. Loads easier imo but could be done with engine hoist supporting the motor.

Steering stuff you might as well do. Had to remove mine to get at the a arm bolts, as i took a arms off first to get springs out. I left brakes and struts hang free. Then swapped kmembers. With no rusted bolts being hard to get out, it was an easy job. Just takes time. Would be easiest with a buddy to help hold things up while you start bolts but can do it by yourself

My biggest issue was getting springs back in. I tried 3 different spring compressors and none would work with the umi a arm design. The hole in the bottom isnt big enough. I ended up just placin spring in a arm pocket and jacking a arm up slowly while using wood and hammer to push spring bottom back into the pocket. Use a chain to hold spring from flying out, not that it will but best be safe. I never could line up index points either because the hole in the bottom of the spring pocket caught the spring end and prevented it from moving backward. So i left it as is. Hope it settles in place

 

Why not put a front motor plate in the car before you change out the x member? Then when you do get the x member #1, you don't have to worry about supporting the motor when you drop the original k member #2 you'll have way more room without the motor mounts in the way (grind em off if you already bout the x member with the mounting points).

 

I'm debating if the hoist will just be in the way and if I should build a frame that goes fender to fender that I can strap the engine to, maybe using a come-a-long or some rachet straps.

I think they make something similar for FWD engine mount/tranny swaps, but I don't know where to get one.

were you pivoting the arm on the pivot bolts or on the ball joint? Did you ask UMI what they recommended?

 

I tried both but couldnt get it to work with pivoting on ball joint. So i attached a arm to kmember and then jacked it up compressing spring and hammering it back into place. If it sits to high because spring isnt indexed, i will either cut coil or weld a plate in place of the a arm pocket to allow same method to work but position spring end correctly

 

I did it by myself with nothing but hand tools, jack stands and a floor jack. It took me a full day but I installed "A"arms, Springs and C5 brakes at the same time with the motor in. No instructions all my stuff was bought used. Tell you it was simpler then it sounds or looks. But then again I didn't need the car to get to work. It was fun.

Don't be affaired to dive in. First and for most your doing this because it's your hobby and it is fun.