RaverRacerX

im trying to install new balljoints and i havent been able to solve this puzzle. anyoe have any pictures? ive exhausted the google and the bing trying to get a hint of how. thanks

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

You need alignment sleeves to make it easy. So that when you press them in, everything is in line. I had a ball joint press from Autozone that I bought, and used a belt sander to put an angle on the adapter sleeves so it keeps things in line.

You can also take your ball joint and arm to a shop and ask to have them pressed in. Firestone type places. Anywhere you could get suspension work done really. Should be able to hook you up fairly cheaply and you wont have to pull your hair out.

I hate doing ball joints on our a-arms... biggest PAIN to rebuilding the front suspension IMO. That and the bushings... Ugh.

J.

RaverRacerX

i am actually using an upright 20 ton arbor press. do you think a balljoint clamp press would be better? -_-

i think i could get what i have to work i just need to figure out what to use between the ball joint and the press.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I used a black iron/galvanized close nipple and adapter bushing from the hardware store, I don't remember the size, maybe somewhere in the 1-1/2 to 2" range... worked well and nly cost a couple of $

RaverRacerX

i think ive got an idea. hopefully it goes well...lol

zenish

i have a press too but the ball joints kept tilting.ill never do them again.i'll pay someone.between that and reinstalling the springs.....

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Yup your press will do the job. But regardless of whether you use a c-clamp style or a press, you need alignment sleeves. Its the only way to get them to press in perfetly straight. Aside from lots of trial and error and luck haha.

I hate doing them, and will never do them again. If I need them again, Ill have a shop press them in, or I will literally drop money on new arms. Ide rather do that than mess with that again haha.

J.

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (3)

I use an OTC ball joint master kit. I did mine a few years ago in a matter of minutes with an electric impact. Using a shop press is slow and a PITA.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

just get the c-clamp set from HF (3 sleeves, two step discs with it)

set a sleeve against the bottom of the arm around the bottom of the belljoint and place that sleeve on top of an arbor plate.

press the old one out.

set the big sleeve over the top of the arm, and over a matching opening formed by matching edges of 2 arbor plates.

Use a flat plate against the bottom of the balljoint and press it into the arm. Yes, the angle may be a bit off. You can set shim metal under the sleeve a little bit. But as long as the balljoint presses in, that's what is needed.

balljoints are easy. Bushings in those stock arms are a pain. lol

myroc86

If you have a shop press it should be easy to get them in and out. Just make sure the A arm is shimmed up level in the press. Get yourself a chunk of tube or a big enough socket so it rests on the case of the ball joint and slowly press it in. If its a little tilted don't worry it will line itself up and go right in.


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ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I think a press is much easier than the c-clamp. Which I use for other ball joints such as Dana axles with good results.

The problem comes when you need to hold things at certain angles, or add shims, or just loosen it up to shift it. Unless you have a second set of hands, its just a hassle. There's a lot to hold in place, and between the a-arm and clamp its kind of heavy.

Also, be careful running them in with an impact. Make sure you use tons of antiseize on the threads, and keep an eye on the backbone of the c-clamp. I broke one of the rental clamps once, might have been a fluke but it sucked. And I completely tore the threads off of another one doing a Dana 30. Ive since switched to using a big ratchet or breaker bar and it seems to go easier. You can do it..just be careful.

RaverRacerX

i made myself a sleeve to press the b/j in (bent some .120 wall flat bar around a galvenized steel pipe then welded). it didnt mushroom or anything and worked well. i also found that a used stock front disc has a hub thats JUST the right diameter to sit the control arm on.

now heres the issue... ive put a ton of pressure on it and the ball joint is most of the way in (and strait); however, it wont go the last 2-3mm and sit flush to the control arm.

zenish

i tryed to use the ball joint tool from autozone.the ball joint kept cocking.so i took off the lower a arm and finally got it pressed in using my press.the biggest pain was reinstalling the lower arm.the spring pushed it all over the place.never again.i'll pay someone.id much rather change the fuel pump again.lol

RaverRacerX

im having trouble getting the ball joint set up strait. the fixture setup i came up with works but the ball joint itself is being.. difficult..

nvm.. added height to the bases and it worked just fine. ill take pics of the.. odd.. but effective, setup