MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

I did a search and know the 16" wheel equiped cars came with different front "A" arms. What I want to know, is if the 17" wheel equiped Firehawks came with the same "A" arms as on the 16" wheels? And would it be possible for someone on here to post side by side pics of the "base" "A" arm and the 16" wheel equiped "A" arm? Thanks.

paul_huryk

I'm not an expert, but aren't the front a-arms all the same from 1984 to 1992. I do know the 82 to 83 were different, as were the bushings used.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...s-created.html

The a-arms themselves are the same. Note differences, however, in the above link.

JamesC

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

I've been the links you sent James before. I wanted to actually see pics from a member on here if they happen to have any A arms disasembled and placed side by side. I could've sworn that I saw an A arm from an IROC online while searching and it looked to have some additional piece welded to it.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The a-arms on my IROC look like every other a-arm I've seen. I'd suggest that if you saw one with bracing of some sort, it was done by a previous owner.

JamesC

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

AFAIK there was never any "bracing" added to control arms by the factory.

While I don't "know", I can't imagine that SLP would have changed out a part requiring that much labor, on a car that only sold in the 20s. No way they could have made nay money on that. Especially since the only difference between the control arms for 15" and 16" applications, when there even were any, was the steering stops (a sheet metal bracket looking thing riveted to the arm to limit the spindle travel).

What is it you are REALLY wanting to know? What difference would it make TO YOU (i.e. to your project) what SLP did? that is, instead of asking how to kill the alligators, let's look all the way up at the top-level objective, even above trying to drain the swamp, and instead tell us about the bridge you want to build over it.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

I guess it's the steering stops that I want to look at. Maybe that's why my Ronal's keep rubbing.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Which steering box are you running? If it's from a car that originally had 15" wheels with 215/65R15 tires on it from the factory, the steering stops inside the box are slightly smaller and allow for more steering angle and a tighter turning radius. It's a known fact that upgrading to factory 16x8's with 245/50R15's or running wider-than-stock 235/60R15 rubber on 15x7's will cause rubbing on the cars that had factory 15's. 4th gen and Vette wheels with 2" spacers will rub as well on those cars.

The Firehawks had all sorts of weird and rare goodies like the ZF transmission, driveshaft safety loop, Ferrari F40 brakes and T45 aluminum cowl hood so I guess it could have had some special steering box or a-arms, but I've never seen pictures or anything that seemed to allude to it so I'd assume they used the stock quick ratio box and arms.

I couldn't find any pictures of the underside of the front of a Firehawk, so it would be cool if someone would chime in with some high-res pictures of the front suspension on one.

Anyway, even if the Firehawk did use special equipment, it would probably be either impossible or very hard to find at this point. The free and simple fixes for you are to either turn less or break out the BFH and clearance those areas. If you don't feel comfortable with that, UMI's aftermarket a-arms offer adjustable steering stops, or you could find a quick ratio box out of a factory 16x8 wheel'ed car, rebuild it, and slap it in if your current box was paired with 15" wheels.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Well with the exception of the stock spindles on the car (I have the 1LE N.O.S in a box), I gutted my old factory suspension and replaced it with with 1LE parts when those were readily available over the Chevrolet parts counter.

I do have the original 2.5 lock to lock (seems quicker though) steering box on my R.P.O. B4E car according to the restoration packet GM sent me years ago. Even though the front cap is stamped JL which should be 2.75 lock to lock and it isn't.

Btw, my car came with P195/70R14's from the factory as well.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You have steering stops built into your control system. You don't need them on the suspension parts.

It's called, just don't crank the wheel so far in parking lots. Stop cranking when you hear grinding.

Alternatively, it's beyond easy to put a bolt in the side of it, and just adjust it until your driver is idiot-proofed from tearing up your team's equipment that way.

paul_huryk

SLP did not change the OEM FCA when putting the Firehawk together - I have seen underbody pics where the stock ones remain.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Well from all the responses, i'm just going to find some A arms either used or NOS and throw them on my car when I install the new spindles.

midnightfirews6

iTrader: (1)

Hmm. I wonder if they used the same rubber bushings, or if they used a higher durometer. And do you remember, did they come with SFC's or the wonder bar? I've seen a very small picture of the guy that owns Hawk's car's rear suspension and I thought it had SFC's but I may be wrong or he may have added them.

What's wrong with your current ones? And any beef with going aftermarket?
Unless the ball joints were changed a few times I don't see why you couldn't keep the ones you have.

I totally understand if you're wanting to upgrade the a-arm bushings and keep the factory style a-arms though.

MY87LT

iTrader: (2)

Well I prefer stock parts usually and the 16" wheel A arms already have the stop put in from the factory without me having to worry about anything. And when I re-did the suspension way back when, my car got fitted with polygraphite bushings all the way around.