Ok so i have a few questions so here i go first bought a set of umi weld in frame connectors

1st question will a 110v welder do the job of welding these bad boys in or should i get a 220v / have a shop do it ????

Next question if the 110v welder can what size wire and contact tip should i use. I have 0.23 mig wire now with matching tip for gas im using 50/50 argon, carbon dioxide

Last question it says i should use a ride on lift but i currently dont have that will putting the car on jack stands in a level driveway work fine or should i try and see if i can use the ride on lift at work

 

You'll probably get a bunch if different answers, but here's my take:

110 vs 220 welder - a 110v welder will do just fine IF it can output sufficient amps. If you've got a little Harbor a Freight welder, it probably won't be powerful enough. You need something that can comfortably do 1/8" thick steel, so if that is the thickest size your is rated at, I'd look for a bigger welder. For comparison, I have an older Craftsman 110v welder, and it's rated to 1/4". I've done 1/8" with no problems with it, so whenever I get around to welding in my SFCs(also UMI), I know I wont have any problems(other than operator error).

Wire size - I wouldn't go any smaller than .030" wire, and might even consider stepping up to .035". .023" is for thin stuff like body panels, not for something as thick as SFCs. The contact tip HAS to match your wire size, no getting around that. Your 50/50 gas will be fine.

Lift vs jackstands - a drive on lift us best, it even says so right in the instructions, as you noted. If you have access to one, use it. If you can't use the one at your work, then you can use 4 jackstands in your driveway IF your driveway is level(as mentioned), AND you place the jackstands under the suspension, NOT the existing subframe structure. This means under the axle in the rear, and under the control arms in front. Just be sure the car is securely supported, don't want it falling on you.

Lastly, if you've never welded anything before, I'd recommend having a shop do it. Learning to weld on structural items like SFCs is not the way to go about it, IMHO. I'm all for learning a new, very useful, skill. In fact, I only learned to weld a few years ago myself, after I bought my camaro. But I spent several months practicing and reading/watching everything I could find before I made my first welds on the car. Fortunately for me, the car was wrecked when I got it, and the replacement parts came with so much extra material that I was able to use that extra to learn on. Even so, I still had a friend who had several years more experience than me do the main structural welding on my camaro as I didn't fully trust my newly learned skill. I had to replace the entire radiator support, drivers side strut tower, and about 1/2 the drivers side frame rail. He did the frame rail, I did all the spot welds on everything else. I've since done lots more, everything from welding in rust patches on the floor pans and smoothing the engine bay, to fabbing my own wonder bar and boxing the panhard bar, to welding a couple of 4' diameter metal hoops into a firewood rack. I think it's a great skill to learn, and I'm always looking for more things to weld.

 

Forget the input voltage... You need to look at the weld'er output amps and your metal thickness.

You need 1 amp per .001" of metal thickness.

.125" steel (1/8") would need 125 amp welder.

My Hobart handler is a 110 volt input machine, but puts out 140 amps. It will safety weld .140" steel

Although I have welded some 3/16" (.1875") steel with it by making double and triple pass welds on 8 foot long ramps for my car trailer.

IIRC the SFCs are .120" thick wall, so 120 amp welder min.

Put the car on 4 drive on ramps.. Those plastic or metal "oil change" ramps. Drive up on the front ones, jack up rear and slide the rear ones under the rear tires.

Or use jackstands under the suspension (A arms in front, rear end housing/axle tubes in rear)

Use a bubble level to see if your car is sitting level side to side... If not "shim" your jackstands or ramps with sheet metal, plywood, boards, etc... Be safe about it though.

You need .030" or .035" solid core mig wire for chassis/suspension work.

In fact I use .030" as my go to wire. I weld most things with it. I only drop down to .023" wire for body sheet panel work.

 

Try Googling Subframe connector removal. Lots of interesting stories out there. Teaches you that you want to make sure to get this right the first time.

 

Ok im using a pro mig 140 lincoln electric the output is 30-140 direct current so i think this welder should work just fine i guess also ill look into getting different tips and a roll of 0.35 wire im not gonna be welding them in i have a buddy i work with that can weld and he has done frame connectors before so it should be no problem for him i just wanted to verify if my welder would work for it thats all

 

i welded mine with .30 wire. ive read that this is the "best" all around wire for automotive. so light frame work, body panels, floors, and exhaust. you will get the most uses out of this wire.

i know .35 would be ideal for these connectors but mine are welded in fine.