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I installed Proforged +0.5" K6145 equivalent balljoints on a vehicle and had the following measurements on their included boots 1.803" i.d. 1.482""ht. 0.8" opening
I installed Proforged +0.5" K6145 equivalent balljoints on a vehicle and had the following measurements on their included boots 1.803" i.d. 1.482""ht. 0.8" opening
Did a quick web search and could only come up with Proforged's traditional offering. Do you have a specific part number? I came across a K6145T however there were no specifics given (although I could see how the "T" indicates "tall").
Did a quick web search and could only come up with Proforged's traditional offering. Do you have a specific part number? I came across a K6145T however there were no specifics given (although I could see how the "T" indicates "tall").
T is a Moog part suffix indicating improved design. The K6145 was a press-fit design of course. The K6145T is the same length but adds knurled increased outer diameter. It may have had other updates. I necro bumped the thread because I made an effort to find poly boots a year or so ago.
For what it's worth, the Howe ball joint has a replaceable stud that you can service without removing the housing from the a-arm. That's kind of sweet.
For what it's worth, the Howe ball joint has a replaceable stud that you can service without removing the housing from the a-arm. That's kind of sweet.
Agreed, I used the Howe ball joints on my build. They are the only ones that have +1” lower joints for a C4 front suspension, but they (Howe) have joints for most popular cars with multiple pin heights for whatever you need. I love the fact that you can service them without having to press out the housing.
Yep, and if you decide you want a different height then just swap out the stud with basic hand tools. But they don't hold much grease so you want to check it with every oil change.
I rarely come in here anymore unless someone asks me to check out a thread. Saw this thread popped back up from 2016. Ironically in 2018 I picked up a 2wd Chev S10 and modified it- lifted it aprox 4" and reinforced the truck to carry more weight, as well as larger tires for safety- stock skinnies were scary as all heck in the rain, especially with a load in the bed.
I ended up using the QA1 1" extended ball joints and after two years they are great. This little truck actually handles pretty good considering its lifted and not made for that. I used Viking double adjustable hybrid coilovers (coilover on bottom and fits into the spring pocket up top- very nice setup.) The adjustable ball joints are very nice units and I have yet to have to "tighten" the adjustment even with the abuse and weight I toss at his truck daily. Much nicer units then the old Coleman monoballs.
This was it stock, pathetic.
I also built panhard rod with adjustments onto it because of the heavy loads. The leaf springs alone were not handling the side loads.
Trust me the QA1 balljoints take abuse. I abuse this thing more than an Enterprise rental car.
Haven't posted here in awhile. Came in to look at another post and saw this old thread popped up from 2016.
Ironically on the subject of QA1 ball joints, I built an S10 truck in 2018 (same lower a-arms as 3rd gens) and used 1" extended QA1's on it. This was the truck when I got it in stock form.
Felt like a kid's truck, needed to beef it up to carry heavy loads and make it more manly. Added Viking hybrid coilovers and lots of modified goodies completely re-working the front suspension geometry. (Note again these A-arms will fit 3rd gens.)
Lifted it 5"/4"
Also ironically I built a rear panhard setup for it too
Trust me this thing gets more abuse then an Enterprise rental car. Balljoints are extremely solid pieces and take tons of abuse.
I think I'm gonna go with the QA1's 1210-209P ball joints and I'm interested in hearing about how these pressed into the lower control arm. According to QA1 the OD is 2.000" and I'm measuring 2.080 on my factory control arms, doesn't seem like much of a interference there. Since these are rebuildable I really don't have a problem with welding these in.
The only other options I'm seeing for a pressed in fit are the Moog K6145T standard height ball joint or the Proforged 101-10048, +.500" taller ball joint, both from what I've found supposedly measure at 2.100"
You may already have oversized ball joints installed on your a-arms. If so, (and as far as I know) qa1's do not come in oversized version. How would you weld aluminum ball joints to steel a-arms anyway?
if you do have oversized ball joints, moog or pro forged are good options.
You may already have oversized ball joints installed on your a-arms. If so, (and as far as I know) qa1's do not come in oversized version. How would you weld aluminum ball joints to steel a-arms anyway?
if you do have oversized ball joints, moog or pro forged are good options.
I wasn’t aware they were aluminum 🤦🏼 I wonder if QA1 at some point made these in steel I say that because a member here McLovin1181 3rdgenguy on YouTube welded a set of QA1 ball joints to his stock control arms, might be worth calling QA1 to see if a steel ball joint is available.
Edit: Looked through his Instagram because I vaguely remember having a discussion about these, I’ll call QA1 today
Edit #2: Spoke to a rep for QA1 and was told that the 1210-209P ball joint is steel not aluminum.
Last edited by 91banditt2; Feb 18, 2022 at 09:43 AM.
According to QA1 the portion of the ball joint that presses into the control arm is 2.050 but for what ever reason their website states 2.000, either way they'll need to be welded to my control arms, again since they're rebuildable I'm ok with that.
The Qa1 ultimate Ball-Joint should be 2.090-2.092in
I've installed 4 of them so far and they always end up within that range.
As far as a press fit, they will be loose in a factory A-arm because the stock Ball-joints are knurled.
You should absolutely place some tacks under the Ball-Joint after you press it in.
If you intend to weld them in, REMOVE the guts of the QA1 ball-Joint. Only have the metal threaded installed disk installed to avoid any warpage.
And yes, the Ball-joint body is steel.
I assume stainless as they don't rust.
Use dust cover:7219034107 with the QA1 joints
A 1/2-3/4 in long piece of rubber tubing may be needed to keep the dust boots seated.
I think I used some 5/8 fuel line chopped to 3/4in long.
they have 3 stud lengths, anything longer stock needs a bump steer kit otherwise bump steer becomes atrocious.
These Ball-joints have to be serviced once a year/race season so keep that in mind.
And that means serviced/checked without the spindle attached.
I have 2 spare dust boots and that's what the lable says.
I know there's a QA1 dust boot and an energy suspension part.
I assume it's the same part with a different part number.
