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Hey guys I'm putting together an order for just the rear end suspension parts for now. I'm located in Canada and I'm ordering parts from the states through summit, so returns aren't to easy so I just wanted to confirm that everything is gonna work and I'm not forgetting any little things that will set me back.
I want the car to sit similar to how it does now so I'm planning on the eibach pro kit for springs. Here's the rest.
koni rear shocks https://m.summitracing.com/parts/kon-30-1265spt
Questions are, will bolt in lcarb be ok? I have no welder so it would make things easier. Are adj lca necessary? Or are the fixed better, one less thing to adjust is what I'm thinking. And finally do all parts seem compatable, and correct for a 1988 Trans Am GTA. Anything you would add? Front will be done after the rears complete. Just gonna slowly pick away at it in the evenings. Not planning on driving it until it's completed. I plan to do brakes and possibly bearings, but those are parts I can source locally, so no issue there. Thanks for any tips or insight guys! Been a long time since I've been on the forum.
Last edited by A88GTANotchback; 08-14-2017 at 09:19 PM.
Are you lowering the stock height?
If so then get both adjustable panhard and rear lower control arms...
Also, take a look at Founders, the 3 way poly joint in the lower control arms is nice, especially for a street car...
If you're lowering the car, then the brackets will help with traction...
You're right, we're in Canada and returns are a pain. I know this is a stupid question but did you put a caliper (or something similar for measuring) on your rear bar? No surprise but mine were not what was supposed to come on the car...
Make adjustments on the car.. the panhard adjusts the rear axle / centers it...
If lowered / relocation brackets, then the control arms can be adjusted to center them too...
Yes I used a caliper just to confirm. I will switch to adjustable lca's as well. I think I will stick with poly though. I don't want squeaks, but I've heard the other options cause their own problems as well with harder ride and cabin noise.
The only reason I'm not looking at founders is because I can get everything from one place if I go umi, and from my reading, they seem to have good quality pieces.
Last edited by A88GTANotchback; 08-15-2017 at 11:49 AM.
im be honest with you for the suspension over haul and see your list and what other posted and maybe a full picture will help your decision and since your in Canada and don't like to return
never hurts to have anything adjustable , I personally never got adjustable rear control arms any adjustments I did are in the rear axle angle via tq arm
bolt on lcarb will do just fine and can still weld them when you get a chance to
but for overall suspension overhaul and bang for buck and order of precedence
1. best shocks strut money can be Koni is top choice ( idk of your front struts are but I would replace front first as there the first ones to get shoot unless the recently up graded and for rear you can get a step below until you get funds or do all for at the same time the front does way more work then the rear and rear can only handle as good as the rear )
2. Tire selection for obvious reasons 9.5 or wider all around preferably
3. bushing over haul and steering overhaul
*** during this time can upgrade springs I like the weght jack setup had pros, sportlines and intrax but can do baby steps and pro kit would be best if don't want to go weight jacks can always swap later
4. Hard parts to get Camber plate, lcarb, pan hard relocation bracket , lca fix or adj , pan hard bar adj. and extended ball joint for front
5. sfc my preference is both inner and outer together
6. strut brace
tubular k member and front control arms " unless wanting to lose weight " and tq arm " unless serious drag racing " isn't required must have just nice to have when it comes around to it type thing lol
once you get to 3 your going to be like wow big difference after 4 your taking it to another level then to 6 just seals the deal with new found capabilities in the thirdgen and be amazed on the platform
Ya, I plan to go through the entire suspension but just decided to start off on the rear since it's a little easier (and cheaper). For tires im torn between my factory 16's or hawks 17's. I doubt I'd go bigger but tires will be new come spring either way. Thanks for the info!
Ya ideally I'd like ye grey C6 vette rims, but I'm noticing how one thing leads to another with each thing you think you need. And c6 rims and tires would damn near have to have some bigger brakes in behind them. It never ends. Haha. So sticking to the underside for now and working my way up.
Yes I used a caliper just to confirm. I will switch to adjustable lca's as well. I think I will stick with poly though. I don't want squeaks, but I've heard the other options cause their own problems as well with harder ride and cabin noise.
The only reason I'm not looking at founders is because I can get everything from one place if I go umi, and from my reading, they seem to have good quality pieces.
Looks like we have everything you are looking for. The only thing is we don't have the energy suspension parts on our website but do currently have them in stock. You can email, call, or pm us for a quote if you're interested.
Thank you founders! Very quick with replies and got me set up with everything I need. Now the waiting game begins.
Got the following:
On car adj panhard
On car adj lca with 3 piece poly
Lcarb
Adj torque arm
Koni shocks
Energy suspension poly sway bar kit
And the adj camber castor plates
Well just a quick update of my progress. Parts came quick, everything is packaged nice and quality looks great so big thanks to founders! I got the rear end out this morning and noticed a seal leaking on the pass side so I pulled the axles on both sides and will do seals and bearings tomorrow if I can find the correct parts. I'm pretty sure I want 710719 for the right hand seal and 224255 for the left hand and set #9 for bearings. Does this sound correct for a 9 bolt rear? I got 80-90w with the delco additive to add once I get the axle seals done and clean, and por 15 the rear end. It's been a lot of fun learning so far. I'm sure I'll have many more nights of searching tgo but what a big help it's been. Another question is I read torque specs for the rear shock upper mount is 13 ft lbs. I didn't want to crush the rubber on the new koni's too much, so I just snugged until they squished but never got it to proper torque. I can't see this being a problem tho right? The old shocks were in terrible shape so I can't wait to see the improvement on the road next spring
Well I've ran into a road block. I'm hoping someone can shed some light. I was trying to do the torque arm bushing tonight. I got the torque arm out of the way, the drive shaft unhooked, rear end dropped. I can't get the clam shell mount out for the life of me. The bolt won't allow me to pull it out without jamming into the tunnel. Short of cutting it I'm out of ideas. I've split the halves, unbolted the trans cross member and went as far as to put a 2x4 between the trans and the tunnel to pry it down and no luck. What am I missing here? The front is on the ground and the rear is jacked, is that my problem? Hopefully someone has some insight. Thanks guys!
It could be. Here's a pic of the drive-train out.
It's so long since I messed with it, and I have an LS2/4L65e now. But you may have to find a way to drop the tail stock down.
I'm wondering if I should pull the tail shaft off? Four bolts and a clip is all I see. I've never ripped into the tranny before, so I'm a little hesitant. This is all kinda new to me truth be told. So learn as I go process. If I take the tail shaft off how much fluid will I lose (if any at all since rear is jacked?) do I need to re seal anything? Any parts inside I need to watch for? Starting to wish I went with the trans brace mounted torque arm and I could have cut this one bolt out and through it in the garbage. But to late for that.
You it's a pain easiest way is to in bolt K member and lower it down to get room, the bolts are to long to remove in tunnel if your lucky you can slide the bushing off tq arm I was able to do that it takes some effort but it is possible but easiest is unbolting K member and lowering entire engine and trans together a in or 2 makes its easy day
I wouldnt unbolt tail shaft you have to drain trans fluid etc to avoid big mess and more work dropping K member is easier undo struts from mount and 4 bolts to K member
For backyard guys like myself Iifted from just enough and rested wheels on some wood and putting something to keep it rolling them lifted body few in to get room
I'd have to think that the 4 bolts on the trans would be an easier solution no? I don't mind replacing lost fluid. I just can't believe how much head ache a stubborn bolt can cause
Ok I've order the eibach pro kit for springs and the global west del-a-Lum front a arm bushings for the front. I measured the sway bar last night in the front and found it to be the 36mm bar. When I went looking I discovered it's not readily available as most are. Tds has a kit I see. But what about this? https://m.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-5213r
What are others doing? All my searches brought up info from many years back, so curious if the truck parts can be made to work or is tds still the only solution for 36mm sway bars. Thanks!
Well I did one of my last orders a few days ago. I have all new moog front end parts coming, Koni front struts, energy sway bar links, tds 36mm greaseable sway bar mounts, umi wonder bar, umi sfc. I'm really excited to get some time to get back to assembly of the rear so I can start the front. Brakes and tires should be all I have left. Still on the fence on how much more I want to spend. Maybe stay stockish on both for now but even still I'm excited to see how this girl will handle.
I did both ways and with and with out removing mounts no problems either way easy or harder to many times to count lol what ever was most convient at the time
Get some weight jacks lol you already open the door to spend and we all know how thay goes from a list that started with 3 parts that snowballed from there
I'm not goin to auto cross it so I don't think I will go weight jacks route. And I think I will just do the tail shaft method. I read about the dist hitting the fire wall if you bend it to much though. I couldn't tweak mine enough to get the bolt out even so I'm assuming I'm ok, but I'll check it to be sure
Well I got that stubborn torque arm mount finished up tonight. Was easy just removing the tail shaft. Minimal fluid lost as well. I'll top it up when she's on the ground again. Rear end is sitting back in place and founders lcarb in. Still lots to do but I'm in no hurry and loving every night I get to spend on it.
Well I got that stubborn torque arm mount finished up tonight. Was easy just removing the tail shaft. Minimal fluid lost as well. I'll top it up when she's on the ground again. Rear end is sitting back in place and founders lcarb in. Still lots to do but I'm in no hurry and loving every night I get to spend on it.
Oh man i love that feeling! Same reason why i try to take my time, so i can enjoy it
One too that helps with iron calipers it's to apply foot brake then apply parking brake hard as you can then release for brake then parking brake last. That seemed to be the best way to keep the pads tight to the rotors so the brakes work decent. The later PBR LT1 or LS1 brakes are an easy swap when your budget recovers
Cool thanks for the tip on the brakes, I've been a little worried about them from what I've read. And ya nothing was torqued there just yet, that's why it looked like that, I did that last night. Thanks for looking out though.
08-14-2017, 08:22 PM
