W.E.G.

need bolts - strut to knuckle

I'm collecting the parts to do a strut replacement.

No idea how long the existing bolts have been in place. If the amount of clatter from the struts is any indication , the existing bolts could be the original bolts from day of manufacture. Spec says torque to about 190 ft/lb. So, removal of the existing bolts could get interesting.

I want to have new bolts at the ready in case one breaks, or in case the bolt has to be otherwise removed by destructive methods. Moreover, there is some debate about whether these are "torque-to-yield" (i.e. ill-advised to re-use) bolts. In my experience, ANY bolt can be torqued to "yield." And that can happen during both assembly and disassembly. So, good idea to have spare hardware to keep the drama in check.

The bolt I need (four of them) is dealer-discontinued GM part number 14047920.
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...ItOGwtdjYtZ2Fz
Probably nothing magical about that part number, so long as any substitute bolt is the same size and grade.

I've googled the bejeezus out of this bolt, and the best I've been able to come up with is listings for discontinued stock, and used bolts on eBay.

I need parts 10, 11 and 13 in the diagram below.

If anybody knows where I can get OEM bolts, or suitable substitute bolts, please let me know.

For that matter, if you can tell me the exact size, or if you happen to have an old bolt of this sort lying around, and which you could send it to me for study, I amd happy to pay the cost of the part and shipping. Hoping I don't have to "study" one of the existing bolts after I snap it during disassembly.

Curiously, my manual lists the size of the nut, but not the size of the bolt. The manual says the nut is size: M16

Could the solution be as simple as ordering-up generic bolts from a bolt seller?
For instance: https://www.andrewsfasteners.uk/shop...ly-galvanised/

Thanks in advance!

paul_huryk

I bought all new suspension bolts from Spohn when I swapped in new suspension parts in my GTA.

W.E.G.

Well, how about that!

Looks like this is what I need:
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...it-images.html

Thanks!!!

Ghettobird52

Just a heads up on removal of those bolts. They are on there damn tight. I was luck enough that a couple nights of soaking in PB blaster i was able to break them loose, only with the help of another hand(strong hand that is). I only had hand tools so i used my 1/2" 'hand' torque ratchet with 24mm socket, pumped it up to 150 ft/lb (max on the ratchet), and used all my bodily strength while my buddy, whose a big strong guy, Held the other side(the nut) with a 24mm wrench, not crescent or adjustable but an actual 24mm wrench. It took some serious elbow grease out of both of us but they all broke loose.

Just fyi

W.E.G.

Appreciate the concern on the tight issue.

I'm going into it with the expectation that the 1100 ft/# M18 Milwaukee may not be overkill. Pretty sure it's strong enough to break the bolt if it comes to that.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2763-22

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Fancy. I just put the 2ft long 1/2" breaker bar on there and pop the sumbitch with a big rubber mallet. Couple swift blows and they crack loose and spin right off. RED-NECK Impact Wrench.

Ghettobird52

lol! and i had to buy my buddy a few beers too

I did have to pull out the BFH this morning to whack at my front fender a little to make my umi sfcs fit... Car was hit about 8 years ago and have a aftermarket fender on the driver side...

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I just used my snapon 1/4 drive swivel head ratchet with a couple adapters and a cresent wrench.....