92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Can anyone share any economical options for bolt on rear suspension parts? Not just the manufacturer but maybe a parts list? Ones your average DIY'er can tackle... I'm only looking to tighten up the suspension for more control and a firm ride less the fishtailing lol

RBob

iTrader: (1)

What I did that helped was:

Remove stock lower trailing arm bushings. Box the arms, then replace the bushings with Moog parts. Skip poly, you will hate it.

Panhard bar mods: removed the stock bushings. Used a piece of square steel stock, trimmed ends to fit the round bushing retainers. Skip welded into the bottom (open side) and onto the bushing ends.

It wasn't square with the bottom. More like inserting diamond shaped piece into the open side.

Install poly bushings into the panhard bar. The bar mods made the biggest difference.

RBob.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

• Moog CC635 springs
• New shocks (sky is the limit... anything from Monroe stock replacement, KYB, all the way to Koni yellow, whatever your budget will withstand)
• Poly sway bar end links & greasable bushings
• New LCAs & Panhard bar. MUCH better than messing with the stockers. I have no problems w poly; I have the cheeeep Lakewood ones but lots of others such as from the board sponsors would do exactly as well, and cost about the same
• Subframe connectors!!!!
• LCARBs

The last 2 are a bit less of a DIY but should definitely be on your list.

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

I've owned the car 2 years. New rear shocks (KYB) and some kind of end links were done then, would they be bad already? What about replacing the actual swaybar?

LCA's & Panhard Bar I've found on eBay as a set for around $170, is this a deal in your opinion?

Subframe Connectors, will this require welding/fab work?

What are the LCARBs? I do not see anything like that in my Haynes manual.

Lastly, will running 5th gen wheels have an impact on any of this?

Thanks a ton for all of your help.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

As cheeeeeeeeep as end links are, and as much difference as they make, it'd be stoooopid to not renew em if you're renewing everything else.

Shocks go bad QUICK. Some more so than others. Saggy springs ruin em even faster because the car is always flopping up and down so much on them, making them do just that much more work, and wearing them out just that much faster. See the above paragraph for my take on this situation.

Replacing both sway bars as a set might be a good idea, depending on which ones you have now. Measure em both, front and rear, with an open-end wrench, right where the bushings go on em; post the diameters, and lots of people here can give you opinions on what's possible and what's unsound. Ordinarily though, changing one without changing the other, can DRASTICALLY alter the way the car handles, to the point of being dangerous. Specifically, overdoing it on the rear one, can make the car real tail-happy, and will want BAD to swap ends when you hit the brakes while the wheels aren't straight. (or even if they are) The car could end up being uncontrollably loose in anything resembling a performance, or even a panic, situation.

Yes that price for a set of LCAs & PHB is about right.

Yes SFCs require welding. That's why I said it isn't quite so much of a DIY project. But the payoff in terns of overall solidity of the car, is ENORMOUS.

LCARB = Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets. The rear suspension design of these cars is defective from the factory, and gets worse with age, and ESPECIALLY with lowering. What they do, is to correct the angle that the LCAs sit at, to eliminate wheel hop and "squat" during acceleration. No of course you won't find that in Haynes, it's a modification, not a "repair" to a stock part.

5th gen wheels will require spacers. A whole nother can of worms.