How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 12
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From: Livermore, CA
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E
How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what system to run (yes I've read all 5 pages of the main pinned thread) watched multiple youtube videos and other threads.
S&W is a bit more expensive but seems to cover more basis, without buying (an inner and outer (Alston) is my other choice, because the UMI doesn't really get close enough to the pinch weld to really connect to it and I think the same goes for the BMR). I Believe the Alston gives you quite a few places to put a weld between it and the pinch welds. The MAC or the inner Alston are probably better for inside since they seem to be less intrusive if you are running a dual or need room for "stuff"
So how far does the S&W sit? Can't find any good images, most of those conversations were many years ago, and folks hosting have changed and images deleted.
Thanks
Tory
S&W is a bit more expensive but seems to cover more basis, without buying (an inner and outer (Alston) is my other choice, because the UMI doesn't really get close enough to the pinch weld to really connect to it and I think the same goes for the BMR). I Believe the Alston gives you quite a few places to put a weld between it and the pinch welds. The MAC or the inner Alston are probably better for inside since they seem to be less intrusive if you are running a dual or need room for "stuff"

So how far does the S&W sit? Can't find any good images, most of those conversations were many years ago, and folks hosting have changed and images deleted.
Thanks
Tory
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Re: How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
If you can do the fab work, go with the DSE set-up. It sits right against the pinch weld, will keep it straight, and tucks up nicely.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
Re: How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
I have had the S&W subframe kit in my car for about 10 years now. I love it. it also integrates a driveshaft loop, relocated torque arm mount (and optional adjustable torque arm), a rocker support piece, and through bolts through the floor pan at places. it is welded in place and in 2 months time, S&W will be installing a 6 point street roll bar setup at their shop when I bring the car there.
the bars of the kit don't sit that low... I used to have the inner Alston subframe connectors and it was similar height. the one area of the S&W kit that is the lowest, is right where the crossmember/torque arm mount/driveshaft loop all are. it V's down there for clearance of the driveshaft, but it is the lowest point indeed. mine has scraped pavement on a speed bump a few times but nothing catastrophic. the kit really really strengthened up the car and I am glad I have it.
the bars of the kit don't sit that low... I used to have the inner Alston subframe connectors and it was similar height. the one area of the S&W kit that is the lowest, is right where the crossmember/torque arm mount/driveshaft loop all are. it V's down there for clearance of the driveshaft, but it is the lowest point indeed. mine has scraped pavement on a speed bump a few times but nothing catastrophic. the kit really really strengthened up the car and I am glad I have it.
Last edited by IROCZman15; Oct 1, 2019 at 08:24 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Livermore, CA
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E
Re: How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
I guess if I had a local shop that didn't hurt to bad on having someone else install, I'd consider that route
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,353
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From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: How low does the S&W subframe system actually sit?
They are more work, but they are the best designed system of those that I have seen. I can see that a shop would charge more, but if you did the "prep work", like removing the seats, seat belt lower retractors, sill panels and the kick panel trim pieces it should cut down on a lot of the required labor needed to install them. If my car wasn't COMPLETELY apart already it would have taken an extra hour or two, maybe three for those steps.
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