Drum to Disk Conversion, Need confirmation
#1
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Drum to Disk Conversion, Need confirmation
According to this tech article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/brakes2.shtml
All you need to mount the 89-92 rear disk brakes on a drum rear is these to brakes:
#10136853-LH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
#10136854-RH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
Can anyone confirm this? And where would I buy these brakes? How much do they cost?
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/brakes2.shtml
All you need to mount the 89-92 rear disk brakes on a drum rear is these to brakes:
#10136853-LH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
#10136854-RH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
Can anyone confirm this? And where would I buy these brakes? How much do they cost?
#2
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Drum to Disk Conversion, Need confirmation
Originally posted by 89 Iroc Z
According to this tech article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/brakes2.shtml
All you need to mount the 89-92 rear disk brakes on a drum rear is these to brakes:
#10136853-LH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
#10136854-RH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
Can anyone confirm this? And where would I buy these brakes? How much do they cost?
According to this tech article:
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/brakes2.shtml
All you need to mount the 89-92 rear disk brakes on a drum rear is these to brakes:
#10136853-LH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
#10136854-RH mounting plate(1)(10 bolt)
Can anyone confirm this? And where would I buy these brakes? How much do they cost?
#3
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
How hard would it be to make them fit. What has to be modified on them so i can bolt them up?
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
You'll have to make this:
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/drum.gif">
look like this"
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/disc.gif">
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/drum.gif">
look like this"
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/disc.gif">
#5
What is that picture of? I just did a rearend swap in my 89 RS. I went from drum to disc and also to a posi w/ 327 out of a 88 camaro. I had 96 PBR calipers at hand so i got the correct backing plates. The plate in the pic was not an issue for me? What is you response to this? Did I make a bobo here or what??? Help me out
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by STUB25
What is that picture of? I just did a rearend swap in my 89 RS. I went from drum to disc and also to a posi w/ 327 out of a 88 camaro. I had 96 PBR calipers at hand so i got the correct backing plates. The plate in the pic was not an issue for me? What is you response to this? Did I make a bobo here or what??? Help me out
What is that picture of? I just did a rearend swap in my 89 RS. I went from drum to disc and also to a posi w/ 327 out of a 88 camaro. I had 96 PBR calipers at hand so i got the correct backing plates. The plate in the pic was not an issue for me? What is you response to this? Did I make a bobo here or what??? Help me out
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Originally posted by Apeiron
You'll have to make this: DRUM BRAKE AXLE HOUSING
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/drum.gif">
look like this" DISC BRAKE AXLE HOUSING
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/disc.gif">
You'll have to make this: DRUM BRAKE AXLE HOUSING
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/drum.gif">
look like this" DISC BRAKE AXLE HOUSING
<img src="http://members.home.com/crussel/disc.gif">
Thanx,ANDYZ28
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Car: 1984 LG4 Camaro
Engine: 350 Roller Motor
Transmission: Level 10 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange 12 bolt 3.42
Baer makes kits for both a drum rear and the disc rear. They use different backing plates that adapt the PBR calipers and 11.65" rotors. They have the only decently easy way of accomplishing the project. The kit runs about $700 or so complete.
FYI:
You will need to pull the axles and do other more technical things. If you can't do that, please take it to a shop that can. You reassemble the assembly wrong you will kill the brakes and the rear.
FYI:
You will need to pull the axles and do other more technical things. If you can't do that, please take it to a shop that can. You reassemble the assembly wrong you will kill the brakes and the rear.
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Many of us are trying to do this conversion with stock parts. I anm not going to pay $700.00 for a rear brake conversion.
#11
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If you don't want to pay, then you will need some fabrication skills. If you don't have skills, then you will need a case of beer. This will drastically help convince your friend with skills to help you. You could spend an afternoon and $10 worth of steel, welding plates all over the place until you have the 4 holes in the correct place to bolt your discs on. Fun. A better alternative would be to go to Moser Engineering and spend $75 for correct, good housing ends. Then cut your housing ends off. and MIG the new puppies on. I've done it with a hacksaw, and with a little care (and some help from the gauge you have to set ring gear play...) you can make it more parallel than it came from the factory.
Some of these rotating parts (brakes, axles, crankshaft...) require money to upgrade. No one asks, "How can I cut my crankshaft apart and weld in an extra .25" of stroke?!" Brakes should be considered the same.
Some of these rotating parts (brakes, axles, crankshaft...) require money to upgrade. No one asks, "How can I cut my crankshaft apart and weld in an extra .25" of stroke?!" Brakes should be considered the same.
#13
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I guess the fact that I only have 9 posts means I don't have a lot of experience
oh well, just trying to help, had to have discs on the back too.
oh well, just trying to help, had to have discs on the back too.
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Originally posted by Spifz
If you don't want to pay, then you will need some fabrication skills. If you don't have skills, then you will need a case of beer. This will drastically help convince your friend with skills to help you. You could spend an afternoon and $10 worth of steel, welding plates all over the place until you have the 4 holes in the correct place to bolt your discs on. Fun. A better alternative would be to go to Moser Engineering and spend $75 for correct, good housing ends. Then cut your housing ends off. and MIG the new puppies on. I've done it with a hacksaw, and with a little care (and some help from the gauge you have to set ring gear play...) you can make it more parallel than it came from the factory.
Some of these rotating parts (brakes, axles, crankshaft...) require money to upgrade. No one asks, "How can I cut my crankshaft apart and weld in an extra .25" of stroke?!" Brakes should be considered the same.
If you don't want to pay, then you will need some fabrication skills. If you don't have skills, then you will need a case of beer. This will drastically help convince your friend with skills to help you. You could spend an afternoon and $10 worth of steel, welding plates all over the place until you have the 4 holes in the correct place to bolt your discs on. Fun. A better alternative would be to go to Moser Engineering and spend $75 for correct, good housing ends. Then cut your housing ends off. and MIG the new puppies on. I've done it with a hacksaw, and with a little care (and some help from the gauge you have to set ring gear play...) you can make it more parallel than it came from the factory.
Some of these rotating parts (brakes, axles, crankshaft...) require money to upgrade. No one asks, "How can I cut my crankshaft apart and weld in an extra .25" of stroke?!" Brakes should be considered the same.
But I do appreciate your opinion.
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