Well I just completed an overhaul of my steering linkage & a-arm refurb, bal joints, Del-a-lum bushings, etc. Yes, I too used all Moog parts including the K6249 Idler arm (which I was concerned about due to all the info & mis-info out there). I'm happy to say that all went in just fine! I have searched and read most all the threads on these subject and want to thank all involved especially "Sofakingdom" & "Saxondale" for the time put into assisting all of us to understand facts, myths & geometry about all the differnet components.

For setting the height of the drag link, I followed the GM service manual and set my height from the lower flats cut on the drag link to the front a-arm bolt heads using a 3/4" 6point socket held in place with a strong magnet. I fabricated a gauge with a machined block and a small straight edge to swing from the draglink flat to below the socket. I used a machinist scale to measure from the bottom of the socket to the gauge block/straight edge assy. The car was supported to frame with jack stands the entire time.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...1&d=1723684318

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...1&d=1723685068

My original idler (replaced years ago) was installed in the maximum upward position on the frame slots, so I did the same with the new one. I had to lower the idler about 1/16" (0.060") to get the values to match within the specification (1mm = 0.039"). When I set the car down on the ground and drove it around the block, then up onto my raceramps and retorquesd everything and rechecked the measurement and all was good.

I then rolled the car off the ramps and laid on the ground, using my "speed square" and found from the ground to the draglink flats about 0.100" difference from side to side, too high up on the idler side so I can lower it. So I am asuming that my frame is a bit off square.

My question is: Should I adjust the draglink parallel to the ground and ignore the dimension to the a-arm bolt? To me this seem the correct thing to do in this case.

 

Use the control arm bolts. The height to the ground is affect by too many outside variables.

 

Appreciate the response. I will do one more check with the factory method and verify that my reading is still correct as specified in the GM Service Manual before taking it in for an accurate alignment.

What specs would you all recommend for '84 designed for autocross? Car is for fun stuff, cruising, shows & autocross. I have my street rims 16x8 GTA lace zero offest P245/50ZR16 all around & for autocross 18x10 American Racing VN510 zero offset 275/35R18 all around

 

That's a pretty car.

There is no single answer but here is a reference point that many people have used through the years. Learning is continuous process so people should experiment for themselves for what does and doesn't work. You can try toe in or toe out, whatever works better with your driving style.

Longacre Racing ( https://www.longacreracing.com/ ) sells some tools that will help you do alignments at home. Although I've never had luck setting toe at home with a tape measure.

 

thanks QwkTrip for the alignment references.

 

your gauge setup for measuring the drag link height looks pretty clever! might have to borrow that idea next time i'm working on my suspension