I sure feel like an idiot, but installing my UMI adjustable torque arm with my Hooker Blackheart crossmember has me beat. '89 Camaro 350, T56, UMI control arms and lowering springs front and rear, UMI adjustable panhard bar (not dropped.) Factory 10 bolt. Car was aligned with street spec prior to having the rear end out for limited slip, axles, and re-gear and wheel base and axle center was damn near perfect, so I tried not to change anything on the reinstall. I bought the full length adjustable torque arm so I could get rid of what seems like driveshaft vibration. The torque arm hits the seatbelt mount/fuel line clamp halfway down the tunnel when getting close to full droop, and is basically touching the tunnel a few inches back from the trans when at ride height . Anyone running this combo of blackheart crossmember and UMI torque arm? The blackheart does have slots and holes to move the torque arm mount higher, but the clamshell is getting real close to the case of the trans, and it's damn near impossible to get to the top bolts of the clamshell when all mounted up in the in the car. I've watched it all, read it all, even adjusted the panhard bar and axle about 3/16" to the passenger side, and no relief. I've set pinion angle at about 2.5* down since 2-3 was recommended with manual trans. I need somebody to help me get off the struggle bus. Thanks

 

What you're describing is common. Mine also rubs a little on that bracket with the blackheart crossmember and founders torque arm. Its been this way for almost 7k miles and doesn't seem to be hurting anything. I just had the torque arm out of the car last week and could see some scratches on it. You'll find that aftermarket rear ends and torque arms tend to self clearance in these cars.

 

It's actually the factory 10-bolt, just with upgraded internals. Do you have the torque arm in the bottom holes of the crossmember? I think moving the clamshell up one set of holes might resolve the issue, but it's a giant pain to get to those upper clamshell bolts and I don't want to take it apart and put it back together for it to have the same problem, or cause another one. Maybe I'll post some pics tomorrow, my back has had enough garage floor for one weekend.

 

If you support the trans with a jack, you can lower the crossmember with the arm still in it and adjust the clamshell. I honestly dont know what position its in, but ive never changed it after getting it bolted in. Highly recommend the china freight trans jack. Its like $120 and is perfect for doing jobs just like this.

 

I've got that crossmember as well but have cut the TA mount off as my MWC 9 came with it's own TA crossmember, but the lower down on the mount is closer to stock and going up on the mount will hit the tires harder