I've started taking apart the front end on my '84 T/A and I'm finding out just how much fun it is to remove the control arms. I've actually got the driver's side almost out- the only thing holding it in in the ball joint (and btw, yes I have a compressor on the spring). I've got a ball joint seperator between the knuckle and arm that I've been wailing on but so far it's like it's welded together.

I've got the area soaking in penetrating oil- I'm going to try again tomorrow, but I was hoping someone out there might have some tips to try out to help get that ball joint loose from the knuckle...

Thanks!

 

PUT a jackstand under the control arm!!!!!! trust me on this one.

and use the ball joint seperating tool, which should look like a tunning fork, GET URSELF A BIG sledge hammer, and hit it like crazy.... mine came out after about 5 wacks..

heres the tech article i wrote about it

http://www.fbody.com/members/david88.../balljoint.htm

 

Pry fork,

its very frekin hard to get out without it, you need something like a "Y" to get it out....

 

If there is an autozone around go get a ball joint removal tool they loan them out with a refundable deposit took me about 5 minutes to press mine out and press the new ones in it is the only way to go.

 

Follow the advice of "breathment". I remove ball joints and tie rod ends everyday. Get two large hammers. Place one behind the part of the spindle the the ball joint stud attahes to, then hit the opposite side very hard a few times. It will pop right out. Same thing for the tie rod ends,etc.

Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

breathment- cool page, thanks! I did neglect to mention that I do have a floorjack under the control arm supporting some of it's weight. And instead of completely removing the ball joint nut I loosened it then backed it off so that there's about 1/16" between it and the knuckle. That way when it lets loose control arm won't go too far if for some reason the jack doesn't do it's job.

And I am using a ball joint seperator like the one breathment shows in his pic for step 10.

When you guys say 'big' hammer- how big? I'm using a hand sledge, is that big enough?

BTW I am using the 'tuning fork' type of seperator as shown in step 10 of breathment's webpage,

Oh, and Andy- I'm not sure if I follow you about how to use the two hammers (and I assume these are hand sledges). Could you please elaborate?

 

Yes, hand sledges are perfect. Basically its as if you are trying to hold one hammer still and strike it with the other hammer. Except that the spindle ball joint area is in between them. It works like a charm, I use this techique every day.

THANX ANDYZ28

 

Andy- hmm.... OK I think I understand- let me see if I do....

So basically what I want to do is:

1) set the steering wheel so that the wheels are straight

2) sit down next to the car so that I'm facing the spindle assembly of the ball joint I'm trying to remove (in this case, the driver's side).

3) taking one of the sledges in, say my left hand- reach around behind the left side of the spindle to where the ball joint mounts to the spindle and just hold the sledge's face up against the spindle 'ear' that the ball joint shaft goes through.

4) taking the other sledge in my right hand, reach around the right side of the spindle to where the ball joint mounts to the spindle (opposite of where the left sledge is making contact) and give the 'ear' on that side several good raps while keeping the left sledge in place during the process.

And this will release the ball joint shaft from the spindle? I'd have to say that this sounds like one of those 'it's so crazy it just might work' sort of things I never would've thought of trying this myself.

And btw, just to make sure -no ball joint seperator is used in this process, correct?

 

You are 100% correct on all counts. Several members have used this techique.

 

Good- glad I did understand it correctly It just seems a bit strange- I'd certainly like to know why it works, out of curiosity....

Thanks again!

 

That is the best way to remove ball-joints and tie-rod ends. I usually don't bother with the 2nd hammer. Just a couple big smacks with a sledge and it pops right out. If you are reusing the balljoint it's nice because you don't tear the rubber up.

The spindle will flex slightly when you smack it and it will squeeze it right out. If you do a tie-rod that is upright, it will pop up into the air a little bit when it pops out.

 

OK call me lazy but I used an air hammer with the appropriate fork from a pickle fork set.

 

I might be needing that air hammer- I tried the 2-hammer approach tonite and got nada. About the only place I can get a good swing on the knuckle is from the back of the ball joint 'ear' ('back' meaning the side of the ear facing the rear of the car), and that's if I turn the wheel hard right. The other hammer I'm holding against the ear keeps bouncing whenever I whack with the other hammer, but I assume it's supposed to do that.

Do I just need to keep wailing on it, or am I just spinning my wheels here?

 

Something must still be wrong with your techique. I have three 3rdgen cars, and I have used this method on all of them, with great success.

 

Ok, I have a confession- I still have the strut in place. Thinking about this last night makes me wonder if there's some binding going on in the ball joint/knuckle because of the strut being there. I didn't think there would be any binding, which is why up 'till now I haven't said anything about it. But apparently there is, if it should've seperated as easily as you say.

BTW my goal is to remove only the control arm so not only could I replace the ball joint, I could have new bushings pressed in, too.

Anyway, going off the theory that I'm binding here, maybe I should remove the arm via the 'factory manual' method- that is, remove the bolts at the 'legs' of the arm and lower that end down so the arm is now free (and theoretically not binding anymore), THEN apply the 2-hammer approach. BTW as a reminder, I DO have a internal compressor on the spring, and right now it's compressed so I shouldn't have a problem lowering the frame end of the arm and removing the spring...

BTW I take it that it is ok to have the wheel turned hard right so I have some swinging room on the knuckle ear?

 

It should not be necessary to disconnect the strut, I have never had to. But if the tie rod end is still connected you will not be able to turn the spindle far enough. Then you can get a much better swing at your target. An assistant is sometimes helpful to hold the other hammer, but this is not always necessary. Try the "two hammer" method when you disconnect the tie rods from the spindle. That little bit of practice may be helpful.

Using this method I have done a 1LE front brake conversion in my driveway in about two hours. This includes replacing both front spindles.


Thanx ANDYZ28

 

I cannot begin to describe what a PITA the factory manual method is.... never again!

 

Actually I refered to the 'factory method' specifically to their idea of removing the control arm by the legs first. HOW they suggest doing that sucks. I think doing it with a spring compressor should work just as good (and cheaper)

Andy- yes, the tie rod end is still connected. I'll disconnect that first thing then. It's just that I've found that my original idea of turning the wheel so the car's pointing straight just does not give ANY opening to swing a sledge at that spindle ear. It's got to be turned hard right. Turning the wheel hard left and hitting the ear from the side facing the front of the car wasn't possible as the tie rod was in the way of swinging, but if the tie rod is disconnected as you suggest, then I'll have room to come in there.

 

I understand David and agree a compressor should work as well if not better. But my specific gripe is with the whole idea of taking it of by the legs. From the looks of it the manuver was formulated with the thought of the car being on a lift. With the car in the air this approach would be reasonable while on jack stands there is just too much stuff in the way.

After a couple of frustrating hours trying to do it their way on one side, I decided to take the strut loose from the spindle, then the legs, and then deal with the ball joint and bushings on the bench... took 15 minutes for both sides.

I would use ANDYZ28's method if my work didn't include a-arm bushings

 

If you have 2 sledge hammers, you can put one right on the spindle where you want to hit and smack the back of that hammer with another sledge. I've used that method when the spindle was hard to hit(when I put 3 inch drop springs in my 91 Jimmy 4dr.

 

Ah, I see. You're quite right- they make the (bad) assumption that the car's always going to be on a lift. They should've offered a alternative method, since obviously a lift isn't always available....

82camaro - Don't know why I didn't think of it. I'll have to try that.

 

It's out. Turns out that using a combination of ball joint seperator and hammer to the spindle ear did the trick.

However, when I lowered the control arm end in preparation to removing the spring and compressor, the compressor came loose. Fortunately I didn't have the arm down so far where the spring could run away but it was low enough where I wouldn't be able to get the compressor back on and get a ratchet wrench socket up thru the opening in the control arm to the compressor to tighten it back up. Fortunately, raising the car a bit more allowed me to lower the control arm to the point where I was able to pry the spring up and out. I don't understand how the compressor managed to get loose (well, other than it's a cheap-*** compressor) and I'd like to figure this out so I don't have a repeat performance when I take apart the passenger side.

 

Im trying to remove my ball joint on the passenger side. its pretty stuck in there. im issue is with the stud mechanically welded to the knuckle. any tips. i got the fork, the ball joint separator tool for after i separate. i've tried soaking pb penetrator catalyst, torch, hammer pick with fork. ive removed the tie-rod and the rotor. im thinking if when i remove the strut that id be able to rock it back and forth. if worst comes to worst, im just going to remove the whole knuckle and a arm and get it done at a shop, but its against my vice principles. ive done the job b4 but skipped the passenger side due to the seized knuckle/bj. alignment is way off now, so im replacing the tie rods/sleeves, struts, bearing, ball joints before my alignment on monday. 117,000 miles.

 

beings the knuckle is a cast part, i would never heat it for any reason.

I find that if you screw the castle nut back on, upside-down, so that the stud is just below the face of the nut, then give it a few hard wacks with a 2lb hammer, it will jar things enough that the pickle fork will then be able to do its job.

this thread is 7 years old too, but proof that search works!

 

i picked up a big hammer and some wrenches jujst now i didnt have. im going to give the upside down castellated nut technique a try.. im thinking of lowering the jack, under the perch, a little too and removing the strut, since its being replaced anyways.

 

yes, definatly remove the strut, it makes thing a lot easier to get too. Dont forget to support the a-arm

 

YOU THE MAN. IT WORKD. THANKS. I was working on it last night with the fork and a rubber mallet(what a joke!, it was 1 am and i was keeping quiet) today i tried it again with a regular hammer and fork w/pb penetrator, and then went and got a hand sledge hammer, did what //<86TA>\\ said and hit it on the stud. bamm after 8 hits. i removed the strut and everything in the way, took a deep breath and baaaammmmm. thanks again.. yeah