I know there have been several posts on this in the past but I never really paid much attention to them since I wasn't ready to have it done at the time. I don't want specs that will cause excessive tire wear but something that will give better traction over the stock specs.

I've had a problem with the car drifting to the right. I took it in to a Chevy dealer to have a new idler arm and center link installed and had it aligned at the same time. When I got it back the car seemed to drift a lot more to the right then before I took it in. I took it back and they but it back on the alingment machine and said that it's where it should be, they told me that the drifting could attributed to tire pull, does a dealer align them diferently than an actual alignment shop? It just doesn't make sense that it would be worse than before I took it in.

 

What are the specs right now? The specs can be within spec, but still pull. Swap the front tires around and see if it pulls the other way--that would be a 'tire' pull. Cost 'should' be the same as any other alignment.
-.5 camber
-5.0 caster right
-4.5 caster left
1/16 positive toe
The extra .5 caster on the right compensates for the crown on the road. Camber should as equal as possible.

 

Well, yes and no. The alignment machines and procedures used will be the same, but chances are the techs at the dealership will not have the time (nor the desire) to spend on doing a proper "custom" alignment for you. I dont work for a dealer, but i do alignments at my work and can tell you its my worst nightmare doing them on cars with custom wheels, or shocks, or anything other than stock stuff really. =)

I'd say take it to an alignment shop, where thats all they do and will take some time with it. You'll get more for your money that way... (and maybe, just maybe it'll even go straight!)

Hellraiser

 

this might cause a fight but a gm engineer told me and proved to me that 0 camber is best at the front, it makes for less wander at speed and doesn't hinder handling. just a quirk of the thirdgen because of the goofy modified strut front end.

 

no hindrance unless you autocross or roadrace that is! forgot that.

 

numbers backwards on the caster. also need to be a positive number not negative. theory right on the caster just put numbers up backwards.

camber -.5 both
caster left +4.5
caster right +5.0
toe +1/32 (.03)both total +1/16 (.06)

 

Ya those numbers were backwards on the caster, sorry about that. 0 camber would be great, if you didn't have to turn.

 

so would these be the specs they would put on it or would I have to request these numbers when I take it in?

 

it is within the original specs for that year car. with the exception of camber. camber is +.30 +/- .50 so the most inward, or negative the manufacter wanted at the time is -.20 degrees. so tell them to use -0.20 degrees if they squawk.

http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/alignmentspecs.html

i compiled this list from my hunter alignment machine. just ask them to use the specs we gave you. they have to align it anyway. so there shouldn't be any 'extra' cost involved. to bad your not in florida. i would say bring it to me and i'll do it.

 

i'm tellin ya, 0 camber, try it and you'll probably like it for street driving. it won't hurt your street handling.

 

A good example of caster is a motorbike.

A touring bike is designed for long open stretches so the front wheel is farther out. Typical Harley cruiser is 30 degrees of rake. Mine is 35 degrees and it doesn't like to turn at high speeds.

On the other end of the scale is a sport bike. These usually have 28 degrees or less. They're not as stable at high speeds but can cut corners very quickly.

In the thirdgen.org FAQ, There's mention about wheel alignment specs.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml

 

82 hit the nail on the head. 0 caster may be better for someone who wants a ride ( and the car not to pull on uneven pavement), but .5 -camber is the #. Whe I alligned my car I used this #, 5.5 caster on both sides ( I don't mnd having to steer a little to compensate for crown), and I forget thr toe, but it was really close to zero. I should have switched it to inches, but did not.
Steven is right about caster, but sport bikes and other motorcycles are not the same as our cars. 6 degrees is the max they go to i think. More positive on a car makes it return to strait easier, more stable at high speeds, and a better road feel (like every pebble).

 

if i do a lot of left lane hiway driving, where there isn't a crown, should i still get the extra .5 in the right caster?

 

Yes, you'll find that unless you have at least a half a degree more of caster on the right side the car will pull... maybe less on the highway like you said, but you wont be happy with it.

Hellraiser