Since somone might find it of interest, I went to the track tonight and made some passes. Heres what happened:

E/T: Didn't do as good as last time. But my air cleaner is pretty freakin dirty and I was running cheap o gas instead of Amoco 93 like I had last time. Maybe that had an effect? My best ET this time was a 16.342 as opposed to a 16.240 last time. I guess thats only a .082 difference though.

R/T: Way better! I hit a .566 on my 3rd run! wOO! I out R/Ted all 4 people I went up against!

'60: Got my best ever, a 2.332! Zero tirespin, launched off idle. Loading the convertor actually lost me .06 on the run I tried it and my '330 was basically unaffected so I stuck with launching off idle.

MPH: Fairly consistent, 83.44, 83.80, 83.77, 84.15, in order.

Unfortunately I was consistently a tad slower than last time, oh well. What do y ou guys think a 3.42 rear will do to my '60s assuming I still keep hooking the way I did tonight? Think I can hit 2.0-2.1 range times? Or is that a little optimistic for the power of the car?

Please don't move this to the drag board, since its a TBI car, I wanted to hear what similarly equipped cars were doing and get opinions from other TBI guys. I already posted a similar thread over there anyway.

 

Changing the gears in the rear will definitly affact how well you hook up to the ground. By changing the ratio, you are putting more rpm, more torque per revolution of your tire than previous. If the torque exceeds the traction available, wheel spin will occur. So considerations must be made whenever more power is added to the rear wheels.

Tire width is about the easiest to add to compensate for this. 16x8's on a good V or Z set will grip very well up to 350 ft/lbs of torque with a stock suspension setup. We're talking LO3 here so the numbers will be well within the stock setup.

I personally have swtiched to 3.23 gears on an open end and can't grip my 15x7 rims for the life of me on those gears and a fully blueprinted LO3, so I reserved them to winter use and went back to my good ol 16x8 iroc rims on a set of BFG G-force KDWs. It grips whenever I need it and produces chirps only if I do a neutral drop launch. My previous 2.73 gears shattered under normal launch conditions so odds are if you keep pushing it you may encounter the same thing. Starts with a small noise from the rear from the cracked gear and eventually the gear teeth break apart. 4 years later and I'm still finding bits and pieces of the original gear attached to the magnet (I took out the replacement gears thinking I broke a tooth but looked good so I assume it was from my old set)

 

Slade your l03 is completely blueprinted? What parts did you put back in and what kind of power are you producing? Did you do any suspension mods to enable you to keep traction?

 

I replaced nothing except the o-rings. Heads, intake and exhaust were polished somewhat to remove deposit and casting excess. Noticed mostly imperfections on the heads though, a little sandpaper here, a dremel there and a nice spit of polish to it all. Gaskets were changed, valve seals inspected and found the miracle valve seal treatment oils really do work. Injectors were cleaned and angled to spec. AC Delcos spark plugs. GM ignition wires and cap, rotor and coil. Compression tested at 9.5:1 cold. Took me about 4 days to do it. Dyno tested at an unremarkable 255 ft/lb at the rear wheel and 150 hp at the rear wheel. Not bad for a stock LO3 though. No suspension mods done, still stock springs and shocks, but been looking recently at KYB's to compliment the G-force KDW's on my 16x8 rims. A wonderbar should be a good investment too while I'm doing shocks.

Since this is my first thirdgen that I own, I figured before I try to mod anything that I should bring it back to spec first. Just today I charged up the AC and no leaks. I now have a fully functional LO3 that runs exactly like new... sorta.. 3.23's in the back and the K&N filter with custom cold air intake and flowmaster 80 round out the extent of mods. So its a bit better than stock

 

HrdRockA4305

since i have the same car as you here is what I was pulling for times stock and with my mods.

stock 88 TBI, 700r4 w/2.73 gears I was running a best of a
16.42 @ 82.9 mph. That was on a 65 degree night. I had cut .3 off my time from a 90 degree day.

With my mods wich are, 14x3 edlebrock open element, TES edlebrock headers (for 350 tpi) 3" catco cat, and 3" hooker cat back, and 3.73 posi. I ran a best time of 15.73 @ 87.9 mph. This was on a very hot day of almost 90. I am hopping I will cut a full second off my stock time. I think I can run a 15.4 with my air shocks all the way down and less wheel spin, and with a cool night.
by the way I am getting my best reslults shifting around 5000 rpm.

 

With an open element and tune up, I went 16.40 @ ~82.00 if I remember right. Your 60's could be lower, Im not sure how you'd have a 2.3 with no spin? What elevation is your track?

 

I'm not sure about the elevation, but it seems cars never run as fast there as I read about. I've never seen an stock or semi stock LS1 run faster than a 13.5 up there, and I know a guy who is a hell of a driver with a 98 Z thats got nothing but a centerforce clutch, and his best was a 13.6. The 2 LS1 cars I went up against got 2.168 and 2.230 '60s but they may have spun, I dunno, wasn't paying much attention to their car for obvious reasons. LT1 cars usually run mid high 14sat this track and most mustangs are right about that range to, but some never even break into 14s up there. Even lightly modified.

Its about a 1/2 mile away from the Mississippi and is usually pretty humid, plus I have to drive the car 95 miles to get there, that can't help. I also had about 3/8 tank of gas and took nothing out, it ran down the track just like it runs down the street.

 

HrdRockA4305, are you talking about Gateway International? If so that track seems very nice to me. I ran a 15.3xx there with a 2.1xx 60' and my car isn't all that modded

 

OUCH!!!

 

neutral drop with an auto = STOOPID!!

 

I'm not nuts.. its not a major neutral drop, just a small rev to like 2k and then drop... not even really in the classification of neutral drop really as its still within the stall rating of the TC to handle it. I know full well that neutral drops (in the high school sense 3000+ rpm then drop) will bust not only tranny but rear gears too.

Personally considering what I spent to get tires that grip, I'm glad I don't really peel anymore. Its much nicer to have a car that grips. Even a full WOT launch (not neutral drop) will only cause a minor chirp for my setup.

 

Nope, never been to gateway. I'd like to hit there and byron sometime just to check them out. I usually go to Cordova. I still wish there was one closer to here than that, they're all a good 1 1/2 hours away.

 

I was at cordova about a week before you, dave, but I didn't race, my friends did, so I have nothing to compare it to, other than a mustang guy swears he runs faster at cordova....and come to think of it, I've seen him run much faster at cordova

you should do some weight removal and go back up in a couple weeks, I'll be there

 

Let us know man! I didn't know you were goin up, thats not even all that far from you is it?

 

Weight removal would help and it's pretty cheap The spare tire, jack, back seats, junk, windshield wiper fluid, and smog stuff just to name the simple stuff. Also you only need about 2-3 gal. of gas to safely run a night at the track. You would be suprised how much difference you see in removing all the weight possible. BTW, it is important to also use the 93 octane stuff w/ booster (NOS Racing formula...it's good stuff). If your timing is advanced to around 4-5 deg. with a stock cam the good gas/booster will help prevent detonation.

Also try a couple of these tricks to lower your e/t's. The torque converter lock-up switch in the tech articles is worth almost 2 tenths. Also, if you wire an interupt switch to remove the ground from the altenator, so you can cut it off during runs, it will give you ~1 tenth. Also using a 680 olm resistor in place of your coolent sensor will slightly enrich the mixture and will allow for more timing advance because the computer thinks the car is't fully warm. So right there you have gained around 3 tenths for nothing. I wired the three rocker switches (one is for the fan) where my ash tray used to be. When I'm not racing I can just cover the lid and you can't see the switches.

Launching at 1500 (I assumed you have an auto) will lower your 60ft. times. You should be in the 2.2's with a 2.73 rear. After my cam swap/poly LCA's my fastest 60ft. is 2.113 and I still have my stock 2.73 rear.

If you do a weight reduction, all these track tricks, and have your car tuned well, you could be easily running 3-4 tenths quicker than the times you posted.

Hope this helps!

Matt


BTW,
Neutral drop sounds painful just thinking about it

 

Yeah, I've heard of the TCC Lockup but never thought about an alernator bypass. Interesting Idea. Honestly, I did load up the convertor for one launch, and it was no faster than launching off idle. I don't know why. I'm probably gonna wait till after the tranny rebuild though to run the TCC switch because I can tell by driving it that its not in top shape. Its not really slipping yet, but, it shifts very soft and there is about a 1 second delay when you shift from reverse or neutral into drive. The motor also burns oil not just on startup, but any time you give it throttle. So I'm wondering about my rings, and if they are really bad I may be loosing compression. Plus something tells me burning oil can't help HP out any. I'll be back.... gotta goto work oops!

 

Hate to say, but if you got smoke out the back on WOT, you're really really hurting. A o-ring swap may save you now, but if too late, the 305 is going to junk...

 

S'ok, the 305's days are numbered. I've got a new motor planned out after some research, and am gonna sit down and have a long talk with the builder sometime this week. 134,XXX miles of abuse by not only me but the previous owner who rumour has it ran the living *spit* out of it has just taken its toll i guess. I've heard of these engines lasting a lot longer, but, I'm sure how they were driven has quite an effect on their lifespan just like anything else.

I've had people tell me they see it blow smoke when I hit it and they're following me... Black85Transam was sitting in my car revving it for some girl last night (he had my OK to do it) and the guys sitting behind it were like sht dude cut that out the oil smoke is killin me. You can't see it always, but you can sometimes smell it, you just know its there.

Poor little 305... its a great motor as far as doing what its made to do. Its just not good for trying to go fast. It'll still pull me up a steep hill at 1000 RPMS without shfting outa OD and go down the road at 35 MPH and like 900 RPMs in 4th and not even stutter.

 

You would be amazed how the RPM's rise and the engine acts like it just dropped off the 500 lb load it was carrying. The alt. really draws heavy...which makes me think about all the other accesories.

Anybody think it would be possible to run just alt/water/crank? You could go over top the tentioner, top the alt, to the crank then to water? I know this is prolly impractical, just shooting a thought out. It would be easy enough to change at the track and then if you ungrounded the alt you would be running ony water/crank.

Just shooting the breeze:lala:

 

Hmm... you've got me thinkin about trying it. Did you use a relay setup for swithing? If so how high of an amp rating should I go with if I do this. Don't wanna fry anything or have something go wrong with it and stop charging my battery.

 

it surprises me to see that you all have pretty much what i have, but i hit 15.626@87.09 last time at the track. that was with a
.715 r/t (.524 is my best ever),
2.224 60' (on bald $50 discount tires, dont ask how i pulled that one off)
9.98@69.58 1/8.
all i have is monroe shocks and struts, open element, 3" cat, 3"catback, dump, coil, cap&rotor, and a 160 stat. this is also through 2.73s and a 700-r4. how come yall arent running around the same time?

 

You know, something I've noticed across the board is that even stock for stock some of our cars are faster than others. Either that or at this age and typical mileage to go with it, some are just more worn out than others. Its probably just the fact that I think my motor is just beat to hell.

 

I have yet to run at a track with my blueprinted engine... so dunno what my track numbers are.

All the same, yeah there's some major variation on the cars. Hell even identical TBI's will not have the same fuel pressure setting on the TBI... From the factory I think a lot of us had radically different things on our cars. Mine had 16x8 rims on it from the factory. History says the SC's got 15's but here's mine that defies that. A 115 speedo that was useless from the factory for my car... since day 1 it pushed well past 115. Minor variations in FP, wheels, stick/auto, a/c or no ac and the LO3 tbi's are by far the oddball setups... some ran good, others like crap.. the crap ones gave the negative opinion on them.