will this engine work well with my TBI setup

- Block
GM 350 4-Bolt Block
Steel-Shot Blasted
Magnafluxed
Bored .030"
Honed with Torque Plate

- Crank
GM Remanufactured Factory

- Connecting Rods
GM Remanufactured Factory
Performance Rod Bolts

- Pistons
Speed Pro HyperEutectic Flat-Top

- Rings
Speed Pro Plasma-Moly

- Cam

Comp Cams Hydraulic Flat-Tappet

Operating Range
2300-6000 RPM

Idle Quality
Good

Duration
Intake - 230° @ .050"
Exhaust - 230° @ .050"

Lift
Intake - .480"
Exhaust - .480"

- Heads

GM Factory Iron

Intake Valves
1.94" SBI Steel

Exhaust Valves
1.50" SBI Steel

Head Gaskets
Fel-Pro

- Rocker Arms
SBI Factory

- Pushrods
Comp Cams

- Bearings and Plugs
Clevite Main, Rod
and Cam Bearings
Pioneer Brass
Freeze Plugs Installed

- Balancing
Dynamically Balanced
within .5 Grams

- Compression Ratio
9:1

its less than $2000 so i was thinking of getting this instead of the LO5. this engine they say has 350hp

 

its too much for a rebuilt and the old factory heads probably suck a fat one. I also hate the two piece rear seal. I have one on my crate and the friggin thing has seeped oil since day one. I also hate the flat crappet cam. The idle quality isnt as good as a rolelr cam and the cam profiles that can be used cant be as aggresive either. You can get the same effect by getting a NEW lo5 and putting in a cam before install.

As for it working, yeah. With some rigging you can get it all to fit together. I got mine to work reasonably well.

edit: Id have a hard time swallowing the 350 HP with those old *** heads. Maybe if it had new vortecs or aftermarkets.

 

what about this one

Chevy 350 Crate Motor (bored .030" = 355 CID) offered by Mark's Performance Engines in Phoenix, AZ!! Comes with a 1 year/unlimited mile WRITTEN WARRANTY!! QUALITY OF MACHINE WORK, PARTS, A WRITTEN WARRANTY & VALUE SET OUR MOTORS APART FROM OTHERS ON EBAY!!! This will make a GREAT Steet/Strip motor that'll also be dependable and run on pump gas (9.0:1 compression ratio)!! Rebuilt crate motors are SUPERIOR to "new" crate motors, because rebuilt crate motors are disassembled, remachined, and then reassembled after any "core tempering" has occurred with all new QUALITY aftermarket/performance parts rather than generic/production parts like "new" crate motors!! "New" crate motors only have to be warmed up and cooled down ("cycled") one time before "core tempering" occurs thus changing their critical clearances!! Block Casting: 1968-1979 (2 Piece Rear Main, NICE!, High Nikel Content!). Head Casting #: 333882 or equivalant (1.94"I/1.50"E, 76cc Chamber, Outflow Camelhump "fuelies"). NEW PARTS: Speed Pro (Federal-Mogul) Pistons, Speed Pro (Federal-Mogul) Rings, Clevite CL-77 Rod/Main/Cam Bearings, Crane/Clevite 280/290H Hydrallic High Performance Camshaft (Dur. @ .050": 214I/224E, Lift: .443"I/.465"E, Lobe Seperation: 112) Clevite Lifters, GM Forged Rods, Pioneer 180,000 psi Rod Bolts, Professional Products Performer Plus High Performance 180 Degree Dual Plane Aluminum Intake Manifold, Fel-Pro Gaskets, Dynagear High Volume Oil Pump, Pioneer Brass Freeze Plugs, Melling Pushrods, Melling Oil Pump Pickup Screen, Oil Pan, Oil Pan Bolts, GM "Bowtie" Timing Cover, Chrome Valve Covers, Valve Cover Bolts, Timing Cover Bolts, Intake Manifold Bolts, Harmonic Balancer, Elgin Valve Springs, Pioner Guides, GM Retainers & Locks. Machine Work (Block): Vat (clean completely, Magniflux (check for cracks), Bore/Hone, Check Main Cap Alignment (Line Hone/Bore if necessary), Deck, Resize Rods, Grind Crank, Assemble. Machine Work (Heads), Vat (clean completely), Magniflux (check for cracks), 3 Angle Competition Valve Job, Install Guides, Assemble. Add your carb, headers and other accessories, and make GREAT power

 

the high nickel content blocks where pretty good. Not too familliar with when they where offered but from what i hear the older blocks where better. I dont know much about the older camel hump heads. I hear they flow well and they where the ticket back in teh day. The two piece rear main seal has pretty crummy oil control. Its not a question of of the rope seal will leak but how soon and to what extent. The newer one piece neoprene seals where far superior to the old rope seals. If the engine builder did a good job rebuilding it then its probably a pretty decent motor if it isnt a ton of cash. Go run it by the motor swap board, those guys know alot more then i do, thats for sure.

 

how much would u pay for these engines