Im swapping in a LT1 cam and a set of 081 heads, and i have a set of k motion 571-K-750, are these to much, will i have problems with them and the stock heads, what else should i do while the heads are off.

 

Why are you taking the heads off to do a cam swap? Are you having them machined? If not, all you need is an adapter for your air compressor that you can pick up at Autozone that keeps enough air pressure in your cylinders to keep the valves from dropping while you are changin springs.

Go ahead and put on an aluminum intake as well.

 

I know you already have them, but I wouldn't use K-motion springs. Every time someone mentions them it's a story about how one broke and dropped a valve and now they need a new motor....

 

What valve springs would you suggest then.

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...2060&pid=81625

 

will those springs do the job for a lt1 cam, if not which one will, thanks

 

Yes, they are good for .490 lift. The LT1 is only quite a bit less than that.

 

I would still go with a set of Comp Cams springs, but those will do if you're on a tight budget.

 

ok cool, thanks for the info

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...2060&pid=81625

Are those 25.95 a spring or for the whole set? If so, 258 bucks all together for valve springs. For a mild 305 thats a little extreme.

 

that is 25.95 for the entire set if i am not mistaken.

 

Don't forget to either pin or machine/add screw-in rocker studs. I've pinned them in car after they started to pull, no fun. . .

RBob.

 

What is pinning a stud? I had screw ins put in when I had my heads done, but what is pinning? Always want to learn something new... and something that may save a few bucks is even better....

 

Pinning is drilling a hole from the side of the stud and the head, then driving a pin in there to hold the stud into the head.

It's a cheap trick, but for the little amount of money it costs to get screw in studs, it's not worth the hassle.

 

Pinning the studs is easy and inexpensive. A right-angle fixture (a small block of steel) is placed over the rocker stud and a nut run down to hold it in place. The fixture has a hole in it that is used to locate and guide the drill bit.

A hole (3/32" or 1/8", I forget), is then drilled from the intake side of the head through the stud boss and through the stud. The fixture is used to locate the hole, guide the drill bit, and control the depth of the hole.

Remove the fixture and drive in a roll pin. Move onto the next stud. For a low buck medium performance engine it is easily cheaper and easier to do then screw in studs.

RBob.

 

Cool, thanks man. I appreciate the explanation.... I may try that on my truck.

 

Here's the .pdf file that Vader posted on how to replace rocker studs. Rocker Stud Replacement

BTW, here's the pin kit..... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...23&prmenbr=361

and here's the stud kit..... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...66&prmenbr=361

It's ~$30 more for screw in studs.