Im gonna get one sooner or later here, but are you guys running one in particular, and where did you set it up? Can I put it where the rubber line meets the hard line so I wont have to cut up my fuel lines at all? I was probably going to go with a Summit 30 psi one.

Thanks guys!

 

If you can find an adapter to go in between the 2, then it should be no prob.

 

I did that and it works just fine. You can buy a T fitting from summit or Jegs and you just cut the line and clamp it in. I tried to fins a way to put it at the connecter so I wouldnt have to cut my line either but it is a major pain and just not worth it. I think there is a way to do it but it is more costly also.

 

I bought mine from Auto Zone for $40. It comes complete w/ the T-fitting. I placed the T-fitting where the rubber and hard lines meet, and it works perfect. The kit from Auto Zone is simply titled "TBI Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit" if I remember correctly.

 

Here's my Summit liquid filled 15psi Gauge mounted in the rubber fuel line. I just used a 3/8" tee that I also bought from Summit for about $5.

 

yeah, the easiest way is to cut the rubber line, and splice in a "T" fitting, and use any FPG, like the summit one that is VERY popular...



mine is a little different, but thats the gauge. it's cheap, and it works.

-brian

 

anyone ever think of somehow mounting it inside the car instead/ seems it would be more practical there and stuff to monitor fuel pressure.

 

It's a dumb idea to run fuel line into the passenger compartment. I don't care if it's a carb 5psi, tbi 10-30psi, or a TPI type 30+psi, fuel inside is a big no no.
The easiest way and cheapest (yes it works) is to take $30, hold onto it tight, kiss it good-bye and get yourself the Summit or Jegs 0-30psi gauge with the T-fitting. Then go to your local hardware store (HD or Lowe's) and go to the brass fittings. You won't find 1/8" NPT fittings with a barb end so you'll need to adapt the parts. Find the male 1/8" NPT to 1/4" and get the 1/4" with barb. You'll also need the female and an male to male 1/4" thread adaptor and 2 more hose clamps (2 come in the t-fitting package). Get yourself some GOOD fuel line from a store like Carparts and run it up to the windsheild. Don't use the Lowe's fuel line, it's crap and gets really soft with a little underhood heat. It's the semi gloss stuff that's to be avoided. Use only good rubber fuel line. As for mounting it's up to you. I only use the guage every once in a while so I just use duct tape on the windshield when I need to see it, else the gauge is back in the t-fitting keeping the length of rubber line to a minimum. If somebody could find a small enough gauge cup then just use some fancy fittings to mount it clean on the hood lip.
I've gotta do a tech article with part numbers because I know it was a PITA when I had to figure it all out.

 

people have definitely thought of it...but it would require either an electronic sending unit under the hood going to a gauge in the car, or an actual (more common) fuel line going into the car with the gauge at the end of it, which is dangerous for obvious reasons.

i think that most people dont bother is because, for the most part, you could "see" the fuel pressure, but not actually "change" it, so there isnt a whole hell of a lot of usefullness for the added trouble of the installation. i guess..who knows. there are probly people on here who disagree.

-brian

 

I agree with both of you. Unless you're running a power adder (supercharger/nitrous), then it's pointless.

It would help for nitrous or a supercharger so that you can get off the throttle before something very bad happens, but even then I'd still only use an elec. sending unit.

 

Then its ok to cut into the rubber line and just clamp it back down with about 15 psi of pressure?

 

I was running it with 30psi so yeah, it's fine. Just don't trust it so much that you take it to the track and expect them to pass you at the tech inspection station. You can't have that much rubber line. If you tapped into the back of the TB with some fittings it would be less of a distance to the lip of the hood and they might let you go so long as you don't tell them it's TBI. That way they'll think carb = low pressure. TBI is low enough, just don't use hog clamps, use actual stainless hose clamps and brass fittings!!!! Anything else and I wouldn't trust it.

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Autometer fuel gage isolator for mounting the fp gage inside the car. It allows you to run the fuel line up to a diaphragm. One side of the diaphragm is fuel, the other side is anti-freeze. The pressure is transferred through the diaphargm.
I have one set up with the gage on the A-pillar. I use it to monitor whats going on with my vacuum assisted regulator. Besides being able to see what's happening, it also moves the actual pressure line away from the engine heat, permitting the gage to be less influenced by rising underhood temps. My isolator is mounted on the inner fender almost under the master cylinder. My rubber moulding is removed at the back of the hood for airflow. Of course, this is all with my humongous Caprice. I don't konw if you guys with your little 2-doors can fit all that in.

Autometer also sells a braided line kit in several lengths so you don't need a bunch of rubber hose running through the engine compartment. I have their 4 foot kit #3229 which runs from the isolator, up to the front of the car, then takes a U-turn and follows my intake tube up to the fuel line on the manifold. I spliced in a section of hose and used the above mentioned Summit fitting to attach the other end of the braided line. I think it came out very clean and very functional.

 

PaulD, how much did you spend on the WHOLE thing? I'm guessing in the range of $140 at least. I spent less than $40. It's definatly nice to have the isolator but it's expensive and for that reason alone I feel it's a waste of money. It doesn't make you faster so it's not a question of quality. Ask z28 boy how much he spent on his fuel lines , he's using a stock pump and the $20 Summit gauge which is mounted right next to the TB. It's good for appearance and for setting fuel pressure or checking to make sure pressure is in the line but other than that it's nothing more than eye candy.
The biggest issue with these cheap gauges is definatly the temp. You can put your hand on it and watch the needle move!!! It's best to just do a lot of "what's the temp, what's the FP" logging.
I do howevery believe it's worth a lot to have it remotely mounted if you've got an FMU or vac.AFPR and heavy mods. There is a member that has an electronic sending unit and he uses lockers to data-log the fuel pressure to make sure the regulator spring is good. You'd be amazed at the results of a good flat ground end spring vs open or just closed (not ground).

 

I have an elec. sending unit and a digital gauge on a pillar pod. Right now it is just eye candy other than troubleshooting, but maybe in the future I will put it to better use. I also have a air/fuel mix gauge mounted with it. It is a more expensive way to go but it looks good. It has a memory of hi and low pressure. I got it from summit and they offer 0-15psi and 16-100psi gauges.

 

Posted by JP"
Posted by PaulD:
Posted by JP:


JP,
You've either got to be clearer in your responses or slow down a little and read what is written. Obviously the gage alone won't make the car faster. Neither will any of my gages, oil cooler, upgraded brakes, Trans-go kit or any other countless little things that get done for the sake of reliability, safety or peace of mind.

There is a little more to performance automobiles than going fast. I know it has been more than 20 years since I got my ME degree but I still believe when you take an engineered system, such as an automobile and start changing components, they frequently have an affect on other components which may not make you go faster but are part of an intelligent approach to modifying. Might not be in a textbook, take it on faith.