OK I'M SO CLOSE TO RIPPING THIS THING BACK OUT AND SELLING IT. As of right now, I will NEVER EVER buy another holley product. I'm thinking I should've bought the Edelbrock Performer intake, but coulda,shoulda woulda..

Anyway, this is my big problem. How the HELL do I get the throttle and transmission kickdown cables to connect? It seems even with the EGR removed and the spacer not on, I STILL can not get the kickdown to reach. Is there ANYTHING I can do?? The included bracket SUCKS, BIG TIME. The hole for the throttle is BACKWARDS to what it is on the stock bracket and yes I've tried moving it every possible way. Backwards?? Everything on this INTAKE is backwards! Most of the posts I read were complaints about the stock fuel lines, LEAST of my problems. I've got it bolted on already, re-routed the heater core lines and brake lines and I'm almost ready to go except for the throttle cable bracket.

This is my daily driver and I HAVE to get it fixed for school on Tuesday.

Thanks!

-I reposted here. I screwed up yesterday and posted in the TPI forum.. *** yesterday was NOT my day!

 

why not run the stock bracket

 

Fredless, when you finally get her running you will be glad you went with the holley intake. I had the same problems with the cables minus the kickdown. For a temp fix I used a plastic tie and ran it from the hole on the cable to the throttle on the tbi. I eventually had to fab my stock bracket. I bent the mounts the other way so that it moved the rest of the bracket about an in foward from it's stock location. But because I too was running no egr or spacer, an inch was a little to much. I got creative with a hammer.

BTW, to anybody reading this and getting bad ideas about the manifold, try not too. It really wasn't that bad to install. You have to mod a little in that there is only one vacuum port and the heater hose is up front instead of the rear, and of course the fuel lines. But it's really not that bad and is well worth it. Fredless, it's seems bad now, but you'll look back on it and will be glad you chose the manifold. Best of luck with the rest of the install.

 

i have the holley street domninator manuifold but i'm hesitant toinstall it because my friend that goes to lincon tech says the single plane intake is bad for street i'll have to see

 

Thats Camaro RS. My throttle cable connects no problem, plenty of slack. I slid the adjustable kickdown cable all the back to extend it more, it connects. By the way, I'm trying the stock bracket now. There's a BIG BUT to the situation, I can only press the gas pedal down about halfway to get close to WOT. I'm afraid if I leave it like this, the tranny will not shift correctly and may break that cable if I stomp it too hard. I'll try the tie thing tomorrow when I hook it back up to get it to my mechanic so he can maybe think of a creative way to get it to work.

Bent the mounts the other way.. You mean the mounts that went on the manifold or the square mounts that hold the cables? Thanks for your inspiration r90camarors. I will conquer this thing.

 

Now I have everything hooked up OK, but where the nipple for the heater core used to be is now leaking coolant! smoke coming from the back passenger side valve cover and it smells like coolant. I think i'm at the point where I have to tow it to a shop... Holley DID NOT INCLUDE A PLUG FOR THAT BACK HOLE. **** YOU HOLLEY.

 

check your base timing. It's probably close to what it was, but not dead on. You're probably going to want to advance it a few degrees more than you had it before to compensate for the new manifold. Start at zero advance and go from there. I'm guessing 6-8* advance is where you'll need it. Best of luck
-Roy

 

The rough idle was due to a leaking O-ring on the TBI. I had to get a used one of of a 305 1500 Chevy truck yesterday and have it completely rebuilt because I broke my stock TBI while tightening the fuel lines down. Now its just that back hole leaking coolant.

One thing I also noticed and talked to my mechanic about was the Intake Gaskets. I noticed the back two sqaure holes (or next to the back ones) were plugged on the stock. Now, on the Mr.Gasket ones, not plugged. Holley had that manifold port open on the manifold so I thought nothing of it. I guess thats why that back hole is leaking now.. Great.. just great.

 

The rear coolent square on my stock gasket had a tiny hole in each gasket. I used felpro gaskets withy my swap, and they came the same way-and I never had any problem with it leaking. Maybe they gave you the wrong gaskets? Man, you are just not having any luck at all. I hope things start going better-working on cars can get really frustrating. Best of luck man, and just remember, we've all been there one time or another.

 

Its over man.. I paid 50 bucks to tow the car to the shop. He's going to charge me a 1/2 hour of labor to plug that hole and make sure its working right. Of course no charge on the Injector. He f'ed that up himself. Ohh well, I was doing this for this "senior project" at school. I got all of my pictures for it and other requriements. I'll neglect to tell them I had to have a mechanic plug a hole for me.

Anyone thinking about doing this install here are some big pain in the wazoo problems I came across:

Kickdown cable - press in the copper colored thing on the passenger side of the cable and slide the part that goes into the bracket all the way back and then put it into the stock bracket.

Throttle cable (one that moves when you hit the gas, brass, sqaure connector) - You're going to have to put this where the cruise control cable went on the bracket. I took a rounded file and rubbed off the two indintations to make it square and snapped the throttle cable in there. Works fine, almost perfect.

Fuel lines - Yes the stock ones can be used. They can be raised up quite high when you have to remove the metal brake vacuum line. I screwed them into the TBI first as tight as I could with my fingers. Then I put the bolts through the two gaskets and spacer. Tricky, but easier to hook up the lines first as opposed to doing it after you bolt the TBI down. Use a 3/4 wrench to hold the bolt that the fuel line screws into!!! I was very tired my first try and forgot to hold the bolt down and was using that 5/8 wrench to tighten that fuel line into the TBI unit and SNAP went the porcelan that the TBI Injector housing in that part is made of. GM Told me I'd have to buy a WHOLE new unit, only though I ruined the injector housing. 490 bucks, had to come directly from Lansing, Michigan. You can buy a 670cfm Holley Tbi, complete for 330 from Jegs. I eventually was lucky enough to find a close enough TBI from a junkyard. Had to pull it off of a 1993 1500 Chevy Truck. Had to have my mechanic completely rebuild the truck one, it does look nice though, matches the intake. But nonetheless another 50 dollar set back and 3 hours waiting in the shop. +5 hours looking for one.

EGR - Damn that bastard solenoid!! Damn it all to hell! You're going to need a 1" spacer. I don't know how others got it to clear with a 5/8" spacer, but whatever works. I have a 14x2, 1" spacer and the 300-66 manifold and the hood hits the air cleaner, but it doesn't bend the hood up. It does, however pop up quite fast when I pull the hood cable

Vacuum lines - There is only one vacuum port on the 300-66 I used a 5/16 tee and 2 foot of 5/16 fuel line to go behind the distributor and up to the filter for the brake lines. I used a clamp to make sure the 5/16 going from the port to the tee was tight.

Heater Core - Not that big of a deal, but another "sonofabitch" came out of my mouth due to this. All you have to do is move the nipple to the front of the manifold, almost parallel to where it was. Cut the hose much much shorter and hook it up. My heater control valve (the thing that holds those three hoses) snapped very easily while trying to remove the hoses. 17 bucks for a new one at discount auto.

Tomorrow I'll find out weather or not this almost 500 dollars (total, incl. f-ups on my part) was worth it. From what I can tell, the flowmaster does sound louder and better with the manifold and plus it just looks plain out cool with the aluminum manifold on there. Not that nasty black one. Do remember that I just turned 18 and I'm still in highschool and I managed this much. You grown ups should have no problems. Yea, another 5hp on my LO3. Why am I trying to make this car an LS1?:lala: Good luck.

 

All I have to say is "WOW", I'm gonna definately look very closely at the install of my preformer intake before I go at it.

I'd suggest "PM"ing someone who has done a custom mod like that before hand if you're unsure of what exactly has to be done or find some detailed pictures.

Anyways it doesn't look like in your sig that you have headers. Do you? I picked up ~30hp or so (5 mph) with headers. Just saying don't get discouraged if you didn't get much of a gain b/c the exh. manifolds are a definate bottleneck. Hope it all works out.

 

Holley did include plugs to plug the holes. Even if they didnt its more than likely a 1/2 inch pipe thread. You could have picked that up anywhere. I have a holley street dominator intake (carb version) with holleys bracket my throttle and tv cable hooked up perfect. No modding was needed.

My setup is completely different from yours tho.

I like the holley intake its nice. I had a TBI edelbrock intake also and this intake looks much much better.

:hail: Holley

 

Are you talking about 30hp on your TBI or TPI 305? I'm doubtful I'd get 30hp with my TBI with long headers and true duals. TPI - I'd believe it.

 

Yes with TBI. My TBI car ran 15.46 @ 88 mph on the stock manifolds/y-pipe/cat (2 1/4") and a 3" cat-back. With the edelbrock headers and 3" cat, also bumped up the timing to 7*, I ran 14.88 @ 93.0 mph.

When I put the same headers on my TPI car (a few yrs ago), I only picked up ~3 mph and .3 sec. The TPI went from 15.4 @ 90 mph to 15.1 @ 93.6 mph. You have to remember that TPI cars have 3" cat/y-pipe stock.

Personally I'm starting to think the TBI has more potential then the stock TPI does, since I'm running similar times with a much smaller cam and "worse" heads.

 

All I have to say is wow. Eat your heart out TPI. I'd hate to spend upwards of 500 dollars for a complete true-duals system including installation and only see 3 mph gain in 1/4 mile. Again, cars defy all logic.:lala:

 

When I had the 300-66 I had to make my own TV cable bracket. The stock Astro fuel lines would not work either so I went with AN lines.

 

My mechanic and I are having HUGE problems with vacuum leaks with this thing. The distributor is not fitting down correctly... hence its causing massive leaks. He says I need to have it machined down or send it back to holley.

As of right now, I'm ordering the Edelbrock performer w/1-1/16" bores. On the manifold it says 701r-66, members on this site said that was the 300-66 manifold.. Never again will i buy holley.. It has cost me hundreds more than I expected.

 

While I agree with your new choice of manifold, I must say that the distributor has no vacuum beneath it to leak. If your mechanic told you that your distributor was causing a vacuum leak you should find another mechanic. I will say that if the distributor didn't fit down correctly it could leak oil. If you haven't messed things up to much trying to install that wounderful Holley manifold, the performer TBI will install very easy. I guess I'm a die hard Edelbrock fan. I've had several over the last twenty years and liked every one of them.

 

****... ugh. The Edelbrock Performer is on backorder so before I send this thing back... anyone else that has the Holley 300-66 and having the same problem with vacuum leaks?

I agree, now that I think about it the distributor wouldn't cause a leak, BUT regardless it still is not sitting in there correctly. He says since its off centered (compared to stock) its not allowing the manifold to seat correctly. Any ideas on what is causing this big *** vacuum leak? Maybe the spacer? It is the stock TBI with 1-1/16" bores going to the 2" bores but shouldn't the gaskets stop the leak?

RTV sealant all the way around the manifold too right? along w/new gaskets?