I am about to do it and I just want to make sure I got everything I need including the gaskets. Heres the list.

-Edelbrock TBI Performer Intake
-Intake Gaskets
-Edelbrock Elite Series Valve covers
-Valve cover gaskets
-K Motion Valve Springs
-Valve Seals
-Timing Chain
-Timing cover gasket (do I have to replace the oil pan gasket too?)
-Car Oil (Mobil 1 synthetic)
-LT1 Cam (shaved the dowel pin)

Anything else I need and what about the distributor seal? Am I gonna need to replace that or not?

 

wow eric, never thought id see the day where id give you info .. hehe

Ill make a complete list of the things youll need first ..

GASKETS:
-Intake, Valve Cover,Throttle Body, Distibutor, Water Pump, Timing Chain Cover (be sure the crank seal is included), Oil Pan and Thermostat Gasket.
-Pick up a can of right stuff sealant (little can)
-Valve seals if needed

Tools:
-Comple wrench and socket set, gear puller, harmonic dampner puller, Hammers, screwdrivers, Torx bits, torque wrenches, the whole nine yards
-Spot lamp, flashlights, jack, jack stands, rags .. beer and a radio
-Shoe box or something for organizationg of pushrods, lifters, and rocker arms
-Air compressor w/ spark plug adapter , Valve spring compressor, little stick magnet for the ratainers

misc parts and such:
-LT1 cam of course
-Valve springs good to .500 lift (i used K-Motion jegs #:571-K-700)
-New manifold if applicable
-New valve covers if you wanted
-Timing chain (stock replacement is sufficent)
-Oil and filter
-Antifreeze
-Fuel Filter (Mights as well! I let mine soak in Free for like a hour and it came off easily
-Spark plugs if old (I broke a few so had to swap them anyways)

Some info:
1) You dont need to pull the heads, and thus this way you dont even need to take the acc. brakets off. Some take them off for more room but i left mine on.

2) Your supposed to drop the pan, but that requires you to lift the motor. I just cut the pan gasket, stuck in onto the chain cover .. twisted it on and siliconed the hell outta it. I would not advise you do that. I bought a new pan gasket, this way if it does start to leak, I can take it to a nice heated garage and replace it at will.

3)If you can,look at the gaskets before you pay for them. I bought all the gaskets listed, and some like the intake gasket set included dist. and thermostat ones. Also, my timing chain gakset set included the water pumps one. So I got a few laying around now.

4) If a manual trans, take it out of gear before you turn the crank, my knuckles still hurt from the P/S pump.

5) Take the cam out slowly and steady. IF you don't raise the motor, theres a vertical brace in front of the radiator, take that out so you can pull the cam all the way out.

6) TDC isn't as complicated as the haynes manual makes it seem

7) Don't listen to the haynes manual! If its cold, throw in a metal trashcan, set it on fire away from car, and use it for heat.

8) Take you time, Check and recheck your bolts and torque specs.

9) Be prepared to have you car down for a bit. I posted before I contacted the flu the night i started the swap (a friday), I didnt get finished till monday morning. It took me 24 hours total to do, but it span 4 days.

10) Something not going right, take a break. Relax. Its cheaper that way.

Thats all i can think of for now. Any more question IM, PM, or email me.. Maybe this post can go in the archives ..

 

That was a great list but you forgot the beer.

 

no i didnt .. its up in the tools area before radio

 

Oh never mind then, you touched all bases.

Remember to keep the neighbor kids away from the garage because you'll be swearing more than you've ever sweared in your life.

 

Here's some I can add, if you don't have an air compressor handy get some rope and shove it in the spark plug hole(usually 6+") then turn the engine by hand until it won't turn anymore, then you can change the valve springs without an air compressor.

Also valve seals (the rubber ones with a metal ring) will just push on with a 10-12mm deep socket.

The timing cover will come off with a little muscle, but I've heard if you cut the corners off the inner part of "ring" on the timing cover(do a search in tech/general) you can put it back on w/o dropping the pan or F-ing up the oil pan seal.

A/C condenser(looks like a radiator) will probably(did for mine) twist up towards the passenger side w/o needing to relieve the pressure.
R-12=$$$

Only the water pump needs to be removed from the front of the engine(for accessories).

Mark the #1 spark plug and where is was located(this will help) or get a friend to crank while you turn the dist. by hand.

That's all I can think of right now, I'll be doing another swap in a few weeks maybe learn something new. Hopefully it won't be as bad as the first time.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Beast5spdGTA
The timing cover will come off with a little muscle, but I've heard if you cut the corners off the inner part of "ring" on the timing cover(do a search in tech/general) you can put it back on w/o dropping the pan or F-ing up the oil pan seal.

A/C condenser(looks like a radiator) will probably(did for mine) twist up towards the passenger side w/o needing to relieve the pressure.
R-12=$$$[B]

I trimmed the corners off the lip on the timing cover and it went in better. (Lots of rtv)

I used wire to hang the AC condenser from the hood after piviting it up out of the way. I losened the brackets that hold the hoses first. I have done this twice now with out leaks or recharging the AC.

You will like the performer TBI. It installs nice and flows enough for a 305.

 

might not need new valve cover gaskets tho

 

yea, brodys right .. i didnt change mine .. but as a disclaimer .. i added them