hey i need some info on a lt1 cam?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 727
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From: miami,florida
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0 tbi
Transmission: street-strip 700R4
hey i need some info on a lt1 cam?
well the first i wanna know is what are the specs on a lt1 cam and what are the specs on my stock cam?second how power u gain and whats the new redline of the motor offcourse changing the vavle springs to rev higher?third what do u have to remove to put this cam in?does the a/c condiser have to be remove or will the cam come out and go back in with the a/c condenser on?
Last edited by miacamaro305; Jul 24, 2003 at 02:10 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,969
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Here's a pic of the LT1 cam specs.
The stock cam specs are
Motor 305 5spd / 305 AT
GM P/N 10088155*
Int./Exh.
.350"/.384"
Int./Exh.
179*/194* @ .050"
Lobe Separation Angle 109.0*
I found them here.....
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml
I don't know if anyone has dyno tests, but there are few guys that have 1/4 times and MPH improvements. Hopefully they'll show up. If not, do a search.
You should change the springs. The stock ones are weak from both the cam specs of the stock cam, plus yours are tired. Go to www.CompetitionProducts.com and get kit #VSA3, or spring #98214 and use your old retainers and keepers.
It may be a prime opportunity to change the valve seals while you're in there.
I've never changed the cam with an engine in a car, so I don't know what you have to remove off the car. I would assume the fan and radiator at least, but there could be more.
The other stuff can be found in either a Haynes Repair Manual, or a Chilton.
Here's a list to give you an idea of what's involved. It's not 100% accurate, but it's close.
As far as the engine goes...
1) Bring the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal
3) Drain the coolant and oil
4) Remove the serp. belt
5) Remove the TBI
6) Remove the distributor
7) Remove the valve covers
8) Remove the rocker arms
9) Remove the pushrods
10) Remove the intake manifold
11) Remove the 'spider'
12) Remove the lifter retainers
13) Remove the lifters
14) Remove the water pump
15) Remove the crank pulley
16) Remove the harmonic damper
17) Drop the front of the oil pan 1/2"-3/4"
18) Remove the timing chain cover
19) Remove the cam sprocket
20) Remove the cam retainer plate
21) Remove the cam
Installation is reverse of removal.
If you mean remove the a/c compressor, it doesn't "have" to come off, but it would make things a lot easier, as well as removing the altenator. You can just unbolt the a/c compressor and move it out of the way. You don't have to evacuate the system.
ALWAYS mark all the hoses and wires so you know where they go. Masking tape and a pen works well. There are a lot of wires and hoses involved.
Don't forget to get new gaskets and a timing chain set.
The stock cam specs are
Motor 305 5spd / 305 AT
GM P/N 10088155*
Int./Exh.
.350"/.384"
Int./Exh.
179*/194* @ .050"
Lobe Separation Angle 109.0*
I found them here.....
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/techdb.shtml
I don't know if anyone has dyno tests, but there are few guys that have 1/4 times and MPH improvements. Hopefully they'll show up. If not, do a search.

You should change the springs. The stock ones are weak from both the cam specs of the stock cam, plus yours are tired. Go to www.CompetitionProducts.com and get kit #VSA3, or spring #98214 and use your old retainers and keepers.
It may be a prime opportunity to change the valve seals while you're in there.

I've never changed the cam with an engine in a car, so I don't know what you have to remove off the car. I would assume the fan and radiator at least, but there could be more.
The other stuff can be found in either a Haynes Repair Manual, or a Chilton.
Here's a list to give you an idea of what's involved. It's not 100% accurate, but it's close.

As far as the engine goes...
1) Bring the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder
2) Disconnect the negative battery terminal
3) Drain the coolant and oil
4) Remove the serp. belt
5) Remove the TBI
6) Remove the distributor
7) Remove the valve covers
8) Remove the rocker arms
9) Remove the pushrods
10) Remove the intake manifold
11) Remove the 'spider'
12) Remove the lifter retainers
13) Remove the lifters
14) Remove the water pump
15) Remove the crank pulley
16) Remove the harmonic damper
17) Drop the front of the oil pan 1/2"-3/4"
18) Remove the timing chain cover
19) Remove the cam sprocket
20) Remove the cam retainer plate
21) Remove the cam
Installation is reverse of removal.

If you mean remove the a/c compressor, it doesn't "have" to come off, but it would make things a lot easier, as well as removing the altenator. You can just unbolt the a/c compressor and move it out of the way. You don't have to evacuate the system.
ALWAYS mark all the hoses and wires so you know where they go. Masking tape and a pen works well. There are a lot of wires and hoses involved.
Don't forget to get new gaskets and a timing chain set.
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