Ok, I got my vafpr today. Put the tds spring in it, and broke the security pin off the torx head that I'm suppose to. But I still can't break the torx bit loose. I went and bought a non security tip after twisting the security one, and the second one twisted also. Is there something else that I missed to be able to adjust this?

Its running at 11 psi at idle and about 17-18 w/ no vacum applied, which I think is the same as wot, right? But once the motor got hot I checked again and it was 8-9psi at idle and 15 wot. So I'm gonna say the heat lowered the psi on my gauge.

My part throttle acceleration is better, but at wot it feels like it goes in and out. Probably on the rich side. So I really need to be able to back the psi off alittle.

Oh, and the vacum delay that we're supposed to use with this is completely unfindable. NAPA has to order it because they said it's obsolete and not made anymore. Autozone and oreily's can't find one in there computers. And the chevy dealership I think found one but it won't be in till monday. It was 6 bucks from the dealer. He had to look up an old model and search through vacum pics to find it cause they only look things up by application.

Thanks for any help.

 

click on the "top down solutions" link at the top of the page. he seels a complete kit for this, including the delay valve. i believe you can buy the valve separately, as well.

 

I talked to Lon, he said to halfway undo the 4 torx bolts that hold the cup down to take the spring tension off of the adjustment screw. That didn't work either. I completely sheared off a solid tork bit and shattered the security one that i had lying around.

I don't think this thing can be broken loose.

Also NAPA's part number for the delay valve is now 2-1036 the 2-1010 has been discontinued. I ordered one from my local dealership for 6 bucks, hopefully it's the right one the parts guy wasn't to sure.

 

What screw are you actually talking about? Are you talking about the four screws that hold the spring in the housing or the actual adjustment screw itself. When I hook mine i noticed that the screw did not want to turn. I pushed into it really hard and tunred very slowly and it eventually went. Now it turns free without any problems. You should work it in both directions to get it to turn.

 

i did the same to mine and i ended bending the cub and the whole screw popped out of the cup, so i put thescrew assy. in a vice drilled and re-tapped it put in another screw, bent back the cup with the assy re-installed then put a lil jb weld on the inside seam- i know this sounds kinda ghetto but i couldent see buying another one after not even using the one i had, hell crack all the jokes you want mine is still working just fine

 

Another torx bit bites the dust!

This is seriously pissing me off. I'm about to bounce this piece off the concrete. I don't really want to drill out the screw because of the different design. I might try and just put my stock injectors back in and see if that evens out the richness.

 

I tried the delay valve with my VAFPR, but found my truck runs better without the delay valve.
SC

 

torx screw help!
when I did mine the torx screw had some nasty loctite holding it from self adjusting. to get the screw out take the cup thing off the unit and warm it alittle with a propane torch to soften the locktite. then with gloves on, turn the screw all the way out while warm. Clean the loctite loctite off and you are in business.

 

That sounds like it might work. I thought about heating it up, but I wasn't sure. I'll see if i can get ahold of a torch.

 

you're right, i just got mine from lon. the part number is "2-1036"

 

I ran my vacAFPR with out a delay and it did just fine. I guess I don't understand the purpose of it . My vac changes suddenly when I open the throtle, so I want my fuel pressure to respond quickly also. What is the big deal?

 

What I've been told is the delay box covers up fp spikes when the throttle is suddenly opened or closed. They say the fp will spike much faster then there is air to support the fuel, so the delay holds it steady until rpms are built up feeding much more air into the motor where it can take the extra fuel pressure.

 

Right, that's what I have been told as well. But I think that's crap. It completely depends on just how fast you wind your engine out.

In 1st gear, it would wind out pretty fast at WOT. What about if you stick it in 4th and floor it from 1500rpm. Then the "delay until higher rpms are reached" kind of backfires. Who drives a car that way? Anybody should be able to; that's no argument. Stuff should drive like GM tuned it, not like a bandaided POS.

 

Right, that's where prom tuning is used. Which in this case I have, I'm just trying to get closer. When I say holding the fp steady I don't mean holding at the same psi through the rpm band, I mean it keeps the fp spike from happening then goes on to the wot pressure you've set. The spike can be much higher and much lower then what that motor wants to handle.