Okay, I'm running a stock 1991 Camaro RS L03 with only an open element (new as of 3/15/04) and a Dynomax Superturbo muffler that came with the car when i bought it. Right now I'm stock piling parts to get ready for my tear-down at the end of June (once school's out and i don't need a daily driver as badly).

By the time June rolls around here is what I'll have:

-LT1 Cam
-87-92 305 TPI heads w/ new springs
-Hedman hedders (off my friend's 350 he's selling)
-3" piping from hedders to muffler
-80 Series Flowmaster 3-in/2.5-out
-Removing Cat
-Removing AIR system
-Removing smog pump
-Custom chip from TBIchips.com w/ some datalogged tuning

What i want to know is what else i chould be doing to my car while I'm doing this. I don't want to end up spending the time and money ripping down my engine and putting all these parts on only to find I'm lacking big elsewhere.
I was suggested to install a torque converter from a 95+ s10 4.3L and 350 TBI injectors, would one or both of those be a good idea.
Keep in mind that this is my major engine work for a little while. Eventually I'll put in a posi 3.42 rear, harwood cowl hood, sfc, rollcage, etc. I've only had the car 7 months and want to get the thing some better moving power. it's hitting close to 100,000 miles so I want to know what suggestions should I do to better these mods that I'm doing. Any feedback, good or bad would be appreciated.

Also, where about would i be falling with horsepower and torque? I could research it but I'm getting suggestions, why not just throw that question in too?

Well it looks like you are covered. I only have a few things to add. First is a fuel pump. You will not be able to properly feed that thing with the stock pump. An S-10 converter would be a nice mod and will really help out your driveabilty with the new cam. I did not see any intake on your list. Since you will have it off you might as well add a new one. I assume you have done the ultimate TBI mods? If not I would do that as well because you will be m,axing out the stock TBI and injectors. Althought not crutial it would be a good time picking out a replacment for your TBI unit. Make sure you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well. Start getting your gaskets now as well. Those unexpected trips to the store for a stupid thermostat gasket are annoying. Do you have a new timing chain?

Okay, I don't have anythign you listed Shifty. So I'm thinking I'll add:

-95+ s10 torque converter
-intake (I'll research that)
-ultimate TBI mods (would have done that - been wanting to but don't have the tools yet)
-Fuel pump
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

I'm going to go through and take a look at all the gaskets I'll be needing. I may post that once I get that list together to check with everyone that I have all I'll need.

Also, I didn't think to get a new timing chain. Woudl this just be because of age and would chaning my cam chance the requirement of my timing chain?

Now your list is lookin good. You really need a new timing chain because they stretch over time and will affect the timing of your new cam. You can just get a replacement chain at autozone for 15 bucks and retain the sprokets, or replace the whole thing for around 40 or so. Either way will be fine and i have seen modded LO3's use both sucessfully.

If I were you I would put off the heads till you rebuild the motor. Too much work for the hp gain from the tpi heads. I would spend that money either on gears or chip burning equipment. If you get the equipment now you can be learning the ropes on your stock motor and then be able to tune your car for the mods you add later.

The concesus on the boards is that exhaust and gears are the first two mods you should do. The lt-1 cam and s-10 converter are a good match. and would make a nice step after the gears and exhaust. I would also do an intake when you do the cam swap.

The chip burning will be the key in making everything work well and getting all the hp out of your parts your going to be adding. Mail order chips are iffy at best. Your relying on someones best guess in order to get you car tuned, and even then your only tuned till you add your next round of mods.

Would i be able to just buy the gear and put them in the rear or do i have to put in a whole new rear? which would be the best option to go with since i want to do a 3.42 posi.

I know this is a drivetrain question but I will help guide you in the right direction. You should be able to take this info and search around and find out whats best for your set-up.

-Most 305 TBIs like a 3.42 gear
-You do not need a new rear
-You need a posi unit and the appropritae gear that matches what type of carrier it is.
-Speedo gears will correct your spedometer

If I were you i would look for a set of used gears out of a 4th gen T56 car. I would also look into the SLp take out posi that costs next to nothing. This should be enough info for you to do some reasearch on the drivetrain board.

Anyone know how much hp/torque I roughly should be putting out? Did anyone do similar mods and dyno their car?

Would it be worth my money to buy the edelbrock TBI performer if I'm going to be sticking with my stock TBI unit for now? I'm not interested in replacing my TBI unit for a little while b/c i'll be heading off to college and I don't have th cach. i just want some ***** to the wall power for now over the 170hp i should be putting out. Can anyone justify spending my $250 on the manifold?

I like mine and I did bore the inlets so that I could run a bigger TBI unit down the road. You may want to look at the holley one that comes with 2" bores and is a little cheaper. Your power levels could range from 200 to 250 hp. Tuning will be your biggest friend to make everything work in harmony.

Comparing the stock intake to the Edelbrock, whats the major difference?

Steve

The plenum size is much greater. It is a bit taller to, around .25". It is the same intake as the regular Performer carb intake but with the top part of the casting modified for TBI.

I was told it would be better to go with vortec heads and intake instead of the TPI heads. any suggestions?

Well both are good heads. The Vortecs have bigger valve but a larger combustion chamber. They can be milled to retain a decent compression ratio. They also flow a little better than the TPI heads. A ported Vortec head will flow just as good as any aftermarket head out there. For a 305 you cannot go wrong with either. A TPI head will cost less and yield really good power. A modified vortec would be ideal but it comes at a cost.

shifty, do you know about where I'll fall with hp/torque?

Pending you are tuned right with the right amount if fuel. You could make somewhere in the 230 to 260 range at the crank.

EDIT: I'd say about 300 to 350 lb ft.

What are suggested for the TPI heads? shifty told me .480 but i was looking around on jegs and didn't find anything there. Anyone have any suggestions or do this and can tell me which ones they have? Part numbers would be great but any other advice is appreciated.

Only the heads are limited to .480 lift. You can get springs for around 50 bucks or so that will go to .525.

Here are a couple of old thread I dug up. They are some good part numbers floating around in there.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...+Valve+Springs

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=119021

This is true. IIRC 1/2 of my parts bill covered the cost of the new z28 springs for the lt1 cam. the lift isnt quite .525 but close enough, for me anyway.

I am not sure on that number. I am too lazy right now to scroll through jegs to find it. I will get back with a part number for various springs that will work. Maybe I will add that to the sticky.

shifty. definately a great sticky up top, i learned most of my tbi background there. Part numbers would help out a lot since it wouldn't be guess, ask you guys, repeat.

Hey thanks. I plan on updating it with part numers for everything. I want to make it the TBI bible.

THIS SHOULD BE FRAMED AND HUNG UP SOMEWHERE FOR ALL TO SEE . VERY TRUE.

I knwo I'm going to need a new fuel pump and I'm thinking Walbro since that is what everyone else is having luck with. But should i go with 190 lph or the 255 lph. it's only $10 but will i see a diffence or need teh difference with my mods?

Either of those pumps will be enough to feed fuel to a small city. Some people have had problems with the regualtor and the 255 pump. I know some people that run it with grea success. You can't go wrong with either. If you are afraid of over powering your regulator get the 190.

is all i need is the 190, I'll stick with that. Thanks.

Just in looking at this particular topic, I thought I'd add some input.

First off, adding headers will give you some power, definately, but aside from the cam and such I don't think you're going to see the gains that you're looking for.

Wishmasters87IROC has an '87 305 *TPI* IROC-Z28 and he just added:

Headers, LT1 cam and a TON of other go fast goodies and only picked up 40hp overall. Now thats on a TPI engine, which out of the box is pretty superior over TBI.

I would honestly look into some other heads, maybe some L98 or L98 Corvette heads (aluminum). I just would hate to see you do all that work and get less than stellar performance gains.

A heads and cammed LO3 will make more top end than a simialry equipped 305 TPI that retains the stock TPI base, plenum and runners. The key to radically adding large amounts of power to any 305 TBI/TPI is in the tuning. 305 TPI heads really shine when ported. I do not know why 305 TPI guys get rid of them so fast.

1.)3500 Stall
2.)Shift Kit
3.)Slicks

4.)a couple of drivers side seats after you mess yourself when you launch it

Since you seem to already have the exhaust taken care of, I would definately be looking into the gears and posi. I would have to say that was the best mod I did, even more so than the headers. . . and I only went w/ 3.23's. While you're at it, you might as well have the rearend rebuilt. Richmond sells some nice kits for around $110.

I went with the 190 Walbro. Just remember, the pump may be cheap, but labor to put it in is around $300. It's a real pain in the *** project from what I was told, so I just paid someone to do it.

My other favorite mods, although it didn't produce any power, were:

Z rated tires

KYB GR-2 struts and Gas-a-Just shocks

Spohn Sub-frame connectors

"Wonderbar"

I know it's more fun to make power, but I've found more satisfaction out of my suspension mods.

P.S. - My car is a daily driver as well.:lala:

pulling the tank is not that hard if you have a lift. you just have to drop the rear end so its hanging by the trailering arms

Which manifold would anyone suggest? I was looking at the Edelbrock TBI Performer. Much better than stock or could I get a cheaper manifold with a adapter? Any suggestion appreciated.

Well if you plan on going to a alrger TBI unit in the future you will want to go with a carb intake or the Holley TBI one. Or you could do like I did and bore out the edelbrock one. I like the edelbrock one becasue you can re-bore it and it is a dead nuts bolt on. You do not need to fabricate or relocate anything on it like you do with a carb intake. However, a carb intake is ideal for maximum power. But on the plus side, our TBI's can't tell the difference

I've made the following list of things. What else would i need?

LT1 Cam
305 TPI Heads
Edelbrock Intake Manifold
Open Element
Hedman Hedders w/ 3" Piping
Flowmaster 80 Series
Custom Chip
95+ S10 Torque Converters
Posi Rear w/ 3.23 gears
Walbro 190 lph Fuel Pump
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Ultimate TBI Mods
Oil
Coolant
Timing Chain
Valve Springs
Gaskets
Cam Lube

Your list is pretty much dead on. I would look inot a high flow cat to add to that great exhaust you have picked out.

I'm going to run without a cat until emission comes around to save myself $100 now. plus, i wanna see the difference in sound. any other small parts i should look into. i don't want to get to the end and end up having to wait for a part to ship. Am i overlooking something small like the oil or coolant. any parts I'll need to replace after removed?

The only thing I can think of is specialty tools. Timing gun, torque wrench, and spring compresser all come to mind. Other that I assume you know what gaskets you will need.

Head
Intake (comes with thermostat and dist)
Timing cover (comes with water pump gasket)

You will need oil and maybe a small amount of coolant. The oil will replace the stuff you have after initial startutp to sorta flush out the engine if you got coolant, cam lub, and other grease in the motor. I will be impressed if you can coantain the coolant enough to re-use half of it. Ha, I spilled so much of that stuff. Kitty Litter works wonders.

I changed my coolant not long after I got the car and it was a mess. Definately spilled half on the floor. It was a mess, definately not a job to be taken lightly. i put in fresh coolant but I'm going to take this change to get nice NEON GREEN coolant in there that stays green instead of that murky brownish-green i have in there.

I'm guessing I have the stock rearend that came in my 91 RS in there now, I never did anything about it and the owner before me... well let's not start. anyway, I have an open-rear and am wondering if I can just swap gears to get the 3.42 posi or so i need a whole new rear end? I'm not looking to add disc brakes but will if i am going to need a new rear anyway. Any ideas?

Check out the drivetrain one for that. You do not need to swap gears. You need a 3 series posi and a set of correspodning gears. SLP sells a take out posi for 99 bucks. You can get a used set of 3.42 gears for 100 and an install kit for around a 100 as well.

I'm looking at my budget right now and I'm up to about a grand without the torque converter or the rear end. I'm not looking to drop in another 500 that the drivetrain's going to cost me. Am i going to be okay if i don't do those two changes? I know that there will be a loss in drivablity and power loss but could they be held off till later in the summer or winter break of next year. College is going to be expensive.

You will be fine running the stock stuff but just not as fast as you would if you had them. You may also have traction problems until you get gears. A stall converter will help that cam perform the way it should but the stocker will do.

If it was me I would get the gears/posi first and foremost.

When I had my lo3 I put a lt1 cam in it, edelbrock TBI intake, exhaust. It ran pretty crappy because I was adding new parts to a very tired motor. Then I swapped in a 350 with even more goodies than the other engine had.

Runs strong but I still have the stock non-posi 2.73 rear-end. Spinning halfway through 2nd gear is not as fun as you would think.

This raises a good point. Am i going to be seeing a large wakeup from this engine with the money I'm putting in? I'd be pretty upset if i got this all together and suddenly it's not what I had hoped. I'm looking from some nice power here.

I got my heads today, didn't get a chance to look them over but they seem good. Can i use the puchrods on my current engine so long as they're straight?

sound without the cat difference isnt too much... cat actually cleans up some cackle... your list is ok, but dont try to make an ENTIRE list... no matter what... you will be going to the parts store more than once

i think you can survive on the stock pump... but it doesnt hurt to get a new one. i suggest getting and putting in a new fuel pump when you upgrade rearend suspension, that way everything is comming down anyway.

other than that... feel free to hit us up when you're doing it, we're fast, and you will run into snags... you'll never think of everything first here.

The way everyon's talking it seems like if I stick witht he stock pump I'll be runnign short on fuel no matter how i run. Is this true or will the stock pump last me till i get to the rear? I'm not looking to waste the money now if i don't have to.

Because of the age of our cars you never know how good your pump is. My pump went bad with only 30,000 miles on the car. I know a few people who could not burn a chip right becaue they did not have enough fuel up top. You are going to need about 15psi at WOT with your combo and you will be hard pressed to get hat from the stock pump.

what afpr should I look into if any?

i hate to be the downer, but have you thought about keeping your car stock, saving up all your pennies and eventually selling your car and acquiring a LT1/LS1/4.6L32V car or something? i have been there done that and, for me, i wish i woulda kept my thirdgen stock and just get one of these - thats where im at now...