OK, my car was throwing the code 32, egr. i bought a new egr valve, replaced the old one, and now its throwing the code again. anyone else ever have this problem? or have any clue as to why it could be doing this?

-chuck

even though they have the same part number one might be a negative backpressure valve on one might be a positive backpressure valve. When i was using a P valve i was getting a code 32, but no that i use an N valve, EGR works perfectly.

You might not have sufficient back pressure in the exshuast system to make the egr work properly. Just something to check.

Steve

Its not always the valve, it can be the solinoid, wireing, clogged passages, vacuum leak going to the egr, or the ecm itself I believe. Do a search in tech/general, vader posted a great breakdown of how to diagnose an EGR problem in a thread I made a while ago.

Yep-- try the solenoid. Vader helped me with the diagnostics of my egr problem. Mine was the valve.

I agree you could have gotten the wrong valve too.

I gave the guys at gmpd my entire vin number so i'd like to hope they got me the right vavle. How do i check to see which one i need for sure (+/-)?

I just installed full exhaust, my ecm was throwing the code before the install, but now that there is a new valve on there do you think that backpreassure could really affect it?

-chuck

I did an egr search on the tech/general engine and ran vaders name w/ it and still got over 400 hits, i read a couple, but found nothing. does anyone know the link, or some other words i could use to narrow the search?

-chuck

my car orginally came with a negative backpressure valve (didnt realize this until much later), shortly after i put on my exhaust the EGR went bad and i went to the parts store to get a new universal one. They give me a valve with the same part number but it is a positive backpressure valve. This is all before i even knew there was a difference between the 2 valves or even a such things as a N and P type valve. So i ran the P valve for about 2 years and got a CODE 32 every time i was on the freeway, and i figured i would just have to put up with it because of my free flowing exhaust and reduced backpressure. Then after alot of reading i figured id go and buy a used N type valve from a TBI truck and now the egr works perfectly. Im pretty sure you are having the same problem as me.. Check out your 2 valves and let use know if they are P or N.

I finally got around to checking on this again, not right under the part/casting number, there are some more numbers and then a letter. I'm assuming this is the letter im looking for since it is a "N" on both the new and old valve. so i started using that diagnostics chart that pyro linked up. here and my rpm's dropped so on to step two. my diaphragm moves, it gets pulled up a little and vibrates a little. so next is the P/N switch. how do i "check P/N safety switch for adjustment or open circut"? I'm just guessing that is OK b/c it doesnt sound like something that breaks. Next is that big box in the middle, how do you ground the aldl diagnostic terminal? i'll update you if i find out more. i need to know for sure about that P/N switch though.

-chuck

bump...

to figure out if the old N type valve is bad, press the diaphram up with your fingers then put your finger over the vacuum port, if the diaphram holds then it is good, if it lowers back down then it is bad.

I already have a new valve installed, problem is im still throwing the EGR code. check out the diagnostic chart that pyro linked and read my previous post. I need to know how to "check P/N safety switch for adjustment or open circut".

-chuck