Hmmm. That sounds logical and very possible. I'm not worried about it right now cause the car seems to be running fine. But I'm gonna fix it sooner or later.

Ray D.

 

Did you get the idle problem fixed?

Bill

 

No. I probably didn't mention this above, but it only idles bad sometimes not everyday. Right now it seems to be running fine. So, Im not to worried about it, plus I'm not driving it right now anyways.

Ray

 

Well I found out today that my egr valve is sticking and that the gasket below the throttle body is gargage. I'm gonna buy new ones and see what happens.

Ray

 

fyi: car runs fine with A/C on.

 

hello guys, sorry about not replying to the post for a wail. Well the last thing i changed was i think you guys are talking about is the mat sensor, the name of it in auto zone is (air cleaner temp sensor) I changed that but still the car still has the problem, the on the tbi i found out by my buddy that there was a piace of metal that you have to drill out and you get too a screw that you can higher the ideling on. So i did that and the car almost turns off some times, but i can still feal the car almost diying out. Do you guys think it is a hose that is messed up? Or you think i should just put a new map sensor?

 

Have you out ruled the CTS sensor yet? You can check it to see if it works. Here is a search that may help. I will try to pull up the thread that tells you how to check it.

CTS search

 

Thanks alot man cool! -Eric

 

In the later cars, the fan is controlled by the ECM (via its reading of coolant temp from the CTS) and that switch is just a "safety" sort of thing; or vice-versa depending on the parts choices. So you can unhook it and the fan will still work. However, in the earlier cars, specifically the carbed ones, the fan will NEVER work with it unplugged, except when the A/C is on.


I found that on another thread that happend to me with the fan . The fan wouldnt work with the a/c isnt on (when bought). Then my buddy wired one wire to one of the three little boxes right next to the master cilinder. And then it will always turn on now.

Weres the cts located by ?

 

[

 

I found that on another thread that happend to me with the fan . The fan wouldnt work with the a/c isnt on (when bought). Then my buddy wired one wire to one of the three little boxes right next to the master cilinder. And then it will always turn on now.

Weres the cts located by ?

 

Right on the front of the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing.

 

So far I have found 2 ways to test the CTS.
1 - Involves a scan tool, that reads what the CTS shows. Since I don't own a scan tool, I wont list the procedure. If you do need the procedure, I can send you the PDF that Trickster has shared with me.
2- Take it out of the car and put it in a pot of ice cold water along with a thermometer and measure the resistance across the terminals and write that down along with the temperature. Put the pot on a stove and start heating the water and checking the temperature and resistance of the CTS. As the water gets hotter, the resistance value will drop accordingly. (Compliments to Trickster)

Temperature to Resistance Values (Approx)

Deg. F - Ohms
212 - 177
194 - 241
176 - 332
158 - 467
140 - 667
122 - 973
113 - 1188
104 - 1459
95 - 1802
86 - 2238
77 - 2796
(Can't remember who posted this in another thread, but thanks)

 

Thanks for the info. I am glad you posted those values because I cannot find that thread that had that chart in it with the same info. I can't even rememver who origonally posted it. I should have saved that chart when I saw it the first time.

 

No body happened to mention the IAC valve. They tend to do axcactly what you say is happening. Fuel pressure on new pump is still low. Usually a sure tell tale on the IAC is when you start your car it will idle up then stabelize. If it doesn't good place to start. Sometimes they just exibit wierd symptoms such as yours.
If I were you I wold replace it or swap in a known good one.

 

Well i put the new temp sensor and it still is acting kind of weared. i mean kind of becouse it is not turning of , but i can still feel it boging out a little bit. I guess from all the stuff i have put on it have made the car almost perfict running again.

Were is the iac located at? Is it expensive?

 

It is located in the side of the TBI unit on the passenger side. I would at first clean it with some carb cleaner. Then put a small dab of clean oil on it to keep the spring from sticking.

 

Well i got my car runing pritty good again, i did the (ultamite tbi) cut the boars and cleaned the iac. There is a problem, there is a little wistling noise that is comeing from the tbi unit and dont now what it is, that is the only thing that is worring me. its not that loud but you can hear it out side of the car , and sume in the car.

 

Ive experienced the whole problem that you said you had with it shutting off when i left the MAP sensor unpluged, and then you said you heard a whistling noise check you vaccum line going from the back of you TBI to the MAP sensor on the firewal lip on the pass. side, also check you PVC valve and hose, thanks

 

that little whistling noise, yeah, its pretty common for our cars. Do you have an open element installed ? if so its quite loud.
I believe its the injectors or intake air rushing past the throttle body plates -- nothing to worry about.
On my car its not a little whistling noise -- its a loud whooooshing.

 

Yes i do have an open element, and my car has been running great ever sence i did the whole tune up, but i think it was the iac valve . Thanks every one who helped me. -Eric

 

That the stock upper hose for a TBI car? thats the exact bend I need to clear my blower.

-- Joe