well i went to the track for the first time last night, never been before so it was interesting. anyway, the times werent what i was expecting. here is the best one, i'll post the others a little later.

reaction .926
60 ft 2.391
330ft 6.756
ET @ 594 ft 9.675
1/8 ET 10.322
1/8 mph 69.46
1000' ET 13.377
1000' mph 79.61
1/4 ET 15.991
1/4 mph 85.86


the other runs were mostly 16.1xx's

i got the best resulsts shifting at 4500rmp's

how much do you think i'll gain by swapping out my 2.73 open to a 3.27 posi?

i know i have some room for improvement (especially in reaction time) but i was expecting better than 15.99.

mods in sig

 

While you might improve your 60' time, unless the engine can breath well enough to change RPM faster, and still make as least as much power, you might actually slow down, overall.

 

You're probably running too lean with those headers on there.

 

Those arent bad times at all for your setup.

 

I have yet to break into the 15's. With TPI heads/L98 cam/Hooker Super Comps/3" cat/Borla cat-back/dual snorkel.

But I'm still tuning. So far 4 chips and each one seems a little better. 16.210 was by best run.

 

Any one else think this? i really didnt think that'd be enough gear to slow me down, i've got 2.73's in there now i can make it through the traps in second. not what you want w/ a ~200hp car from what i've read.

would the VFPR free mod be able to help that?

Thanks for all the input, you guys are pretty much all i've got to go on.

-chuck

 

I lost time when i did my gear swap.

of course i made it up with other mods down the road.

 

you swapped from 2.73 to 3.42 right?

wow, i remember someone figuring the best gears for a stock lo3 to be 4.10, but also mentioned that that wouldnt be too appealing for a daily driver. how much time did you lose?

-chuck

 

i went from 3.08 to 3.42

i lost a 0.1, not much, and that could have been anything, like weather conditions ect. but i did not gain the .5 + that people say you will get.

the people who say 4.10s are the right gearing, are ones who have read enough to be dangerous, but don't know. they read you 'should cross the trapps at X rmp in X gear' they dont' take the power curve, ect, into effect. our cars are torque, with little HP, the longer gears work will with that. I would go more than 3.42's myself, i would say 3.23 is a pretty good fit. or in your case, 3.27. you are not going all that steap. but i wouldn't go to 3.73 or 4.10.

 

I doubt that especially on a stock tune...these cars are absolutely PIG RICH from the factory.

You can improve your 60' time with some LCA's (especially if you are getting wheel hop) and subframe connectors. Also a little higher stall would help.

 

Atleast you hit 15's. My best time is 16.05, with my mods being a dynomax cat-back and cat, and custom CAI.

 

thats actually about right


check out my mods with stock tuning only thing i did to the computer was installed the Hypertech Thermomaster Chip (stage 2)

 

I disagree. When I slapped on my headers and cat-back, and then you couple that with the open element, I was hurtin' for fuel bad. It was a real dog and would bog down in the 2500-4000 range.

I had the VAFPR put on along with a Walbro 190 fuel pump, and my problems were solved.

EDIT: I run 3.27's with a posi and I didn't lose anytime at all. Actually, I think I picked up .3

 

What about doing a custom chip. I am sure your car is hurting like mine. The mods you have done seem pretty similar to what I have on my car

open air element by K&N
Headmen Headers
3" exhaust system
Hi-Flow Magnaflow cat
Hi-Flow Magnaflow muffler
AC Delco plugs, 8mm wires, cap and rotor
New O2 Sensor (Bosch)
New EGR Valve

I know my car could get more out of a custom tune. Maybe when you get that prominator and you do a tune to the ECM you may get yoru car into the bracket that you are aiming for.

 

I really don't want to start a pissing flame contest but W.T.F. !! Is it the age of these cars or what when my car was basically stock in 1995 I pulled a best of 15.54 at 91 mph I would rip 15.8 all night long the only mods were

L69 dual snorkel air cleaner K&N air filter and hypercrap chip
Factory
Lo3 V8 –T5 trans one wheel wonder 3:08 rear

 

Those are about average times, and not bad for your mods.

It is hard to say whether you are running rich or lean. Factory tune sucks to begin with. But rich or lean is not worth arguing about based on the fact that these cars varied from 9-13psi or so from the factory. Gunny could have been lean because his was 9psi from the factory, while cali is running rich cause his is set at 12psi. An AFPR is really what you need, though I wouldn't worry about swapping pumps until you're somewhere in the 95mph range.

I think that swapping rears is a good thing, and I had good success with swapping 3.73s into my old rs. Remember that '60 times are probably the most critical part of making et's, and the general rule is that every tenth off your '60 will equal two tenths in the quarter. If your suspension is not setup to handle the extra gearing and you spin, then yeah, it's gonna hurt your time. And there are reasons for general "rules" for success, as they are there because of thousands who have attributed to them, but it is important to know that leaving out one simple variable could throw the results signifigantly.


If you haven't done so far, try advancing your timing (as long as you don't think you're running lean), do the ultimate tbi mods, and think about a cutout prior to your cat.

 

You'll notice that 5 speeds generally run quite a bit better than the autos, mainly due to the lamo stall in the autos IMO. Not to mention that the lo3 has a very limited powerband in stock form, and the 1st to 2nd shift is really a killer in the autos. And like you said, age does have an effect.

 

Yeah I was kinda supprised at how slow mine was when I first ran her. 17.6 1/4, granted the rings were shot and has 136K on her but an engine rebuild, cam, and some other stuff she ran a 15.3. Now with the Hooker 2055s I have now she ran a 15.045 1/4 with a 2.18 60 foot time. Hopefully the fuel reg, I just installed, with help out and put me in the 14s.

 

I really want to get into the chip tuning asap, but its hard to come buy an extra $200 right now. How do you tell how far the timing is advanced? every one of those points is 2* right? If so, then its advanced about 5*. I'm able to datalog with WINALDL but you dont get much running in the quarter, should i just use what i get driving around town and try to fix the rich/lean problem with the free VFPR? over 128 is lean and under is rich right?

Studying my timeslips more I think i could knock off at least .2 in my reaction time, which according to r90 should equate to .3-.4 in the quarter. I really do need a new torque converter, you can hardley tell i bring it up to stall, i mean 1250rpm, honestly its not even a grand above idle....

On a side note, here is a video from that night, since it was a t&t it was line up and go w/ whoever, its just a really funny video.

vette.wmv

 

5 degrees should be a pretty good advance. check your knock counts via winaldl. Advance the timing until you start to get counts, or if you are getting a lot now, retard it a degree or two.

It is very hard to get a good idea of what the engine is doing at WOT because of the snail 160 baud rate. Honestly, your best bet is to tune at the track and see what works best for you until you get into prom tuning.

Your reaction time has absolutely nothing to do with your e.t. Your actual time from the time the light turns green to the time you cross the 1/4 is your reaction time plus your quarter mile time. But the number that you are concerned about is the e.t.-the time it took from when you actually started accelorating to the time you finish, which is what you have posted, and everybody goes by.

Your '60 is something completely different, and it would be pretty tough to knock off .2 sec without doing some mods. But 2.28-2.30 is a realistic number purely based on launching your car a little better.

 

Here's a quick drawing of the timing mark with the corresponding timing advance.

Also, reaction time has nothing to do with your ET, he was talking about 60' times.

 

thanks for clearing that up.
i'm still new to all of this.

Thanks for the diagram, i'll go double check it all now.

Was i right with adjusting the fuel preassure to compensate for the rich/lean thing with the blms?
-chuck

 

Yes and no. The ideal blm is 128 like you said. For part throttle that would be exactly what you would want to do besides chip tuning obviously. However, the problem I have noticed is that I am still running a little rich at most part throttles, but am running lean past 4,000rpm at WOT. So if I was able to adjust my fp lower to bring my blms closer to 128 at part throttle, then I would really be going lean at WOT. And the same would probably happen to you. Now a vacuum referenced regulator would make for a different story.

 

But with all the work and money involved in setting that up i could get into prom tuning and accomplish the same thing right?

-chuck

 

yes. prom tuning is actually better. Down the road you may need to up the fuel pressure anyways, but considering you can do that for free, it is no big deal.