If the pump has battery voltage then the code 54 may have jsut been due to a dead battery. From the sound of it, if everything is hooked up properly then I also say that it may just be a pump thats gone bad. Before you junk the pump, check the fittings that are hooked up to it. Someone here had a similar problem awhile back that was due to a mistake made during the installation.

As far as overheating goes, I remember hearing that the pumps are A/C induction for fire suppression purposes. I imagine theres probably some circuitry in there that went bad, or maybe the windings overheated and the insulation melted.

 

Took the pump out tonight and found the problem; RUBBER COUPLER HAD A BIG HOLE IN IT. I am really confused and distressed. When I got the car the pump didn't work at all.
When I changed it the first time the rubber coupler had a similar
hole. This time the damaged area was very sticky. Almost like the fuel broke it down. I have questions on how this thing digested itself
- Could it be heat from running it out of gas and trying to start
the car?
- Could it be air was sucked into pump creating too much pressure
busting it?
- Could it be I left too much of a gap between the pump and the line when I installed the coupler?
- Or is the gas just eating away at the rubber?

This car has not seen the street since I bought it; pump had no actual drive time on it; just idle and rev

 

If it actually has a clean hole that looks like something ate through it then its time to totally empty the fuel system. There must be something mixed in with the fuel thats attacking the lines. Id also carefully check the soft lines in the engine bay and the diaphram in the regulator for damage as well.

The other possibility is that there is a restriction in the line and the pressure is shooting up and causing the line to tear, but with an oem pump thats a major long shot as they have a hard time getting over 15 psi. If it was some super high psi aftermarket unit then that could be a possibility.

I guess it could be heat related, but the pump would probably have burned itself out by now.

Could you post a pic of the damage?

 

I don't know what kind of rubber was used there but it is obvious that it was not intended for use in a fuel system. Did that piece of rubber hose come with the fuel pump or is it some that was just laying around? Yes the pump will get hot if it is not submerged in fuel to keep it cool, that is why it is not wise to let the fuel gage get below 1/4 tank.

 

Good point. The line also might not have adiqaute reinforcing like fuel line does.

As for cooling, I was never quite sure whether it was fuel circulating though the pump that cooled it, or just the ambient fuel. I never have gas in my car so that would be somehting id like to know

I havnt had to remove mine yet but the manual shows the pump having closed cell foam around it to insulate against noise. Thats also an excelent thermal insulator.

 

It was the rubber line that came with the new pump. the brand was Master bought from Advance Auto.
I wouldn't have a way to get a pic on the board for a week or two
Just imagine one side perfect and one side looking like Freddy Krueger's face. The hole is opposite of the electrical connector.
The hole itself is more of a tear. The damage appears to have started inside the line and pushed its way out. I will say I ran the pump a lot when it was out of gas as I didn't know because the
guage is messed up. And have run the crap out of it since the problem started. I have used the ALDL connetor to run the
pump alot before and after problem. I guess it could be abuse, but unless the guy id it the first time before I got the car it is odd it would happen twice in a row. I and my friends have checked lines for blockage and bad spots and they are all good. rubber is firm. Maybe I'll' put a pump on it again and sell it as fast as possible!

 

Sounds like a blowout. Did you check the return line as well? How about the fuel pressure regulator. Has it been tampered with?

 

Did you ever check the direction of the arrow on the fuel filter?

 

I've no advice on this issue but good luck getting it sorted, and getting her on the road.
Also this thread may have saved my fuel pump 'coz I'm now commititted to keeping my tank full.

Oh just as my 2c, did I read you changed the filter again. I once ran a car dry and had to fork out lots $ to track down where the crap out of my tank had ended up. when the fuel filter came off about a pound of crusty rust flakes fell out. (Car never ran right again)

just sayin there might be crap movin down the lines still and that may be causing the pressure to build up. Also 'coz the crap moves it can also be fine one minute and ***** the next.

good luck

 

If you have access to a compressor undo the lines and filter and try and blow them out. Every once and a while I get a car into the shop with this problem. Most of the time its damaged on the install. If the the gas has been in the tank for a long time drain it and put some fresh gas in there. I had a 98 ranger that came in once after sitting for a year while the owner was over seas and he had put a gas stablizer and a injector cleaner in the tank, the mix messed up all non metal parts in the tank.

 

Fuel filter arrow is pointing the right direction, and all other lines are still good.

The original fuel pressure regulator, I did tamper with to try to make it adjustable. Now I have replaced that with a new fuel pressure regulator.

I estimate the car sat for five years before I got it.

Will drain the gas tank and refill with fresh, even though this fuel isn't that old as I've already used up all the original fuel.

Thanks for all the help.

 

SWEEEEEET!!!

My friend and I changed pump setup in the past two evenings. Car started right up after cycling key 4 times. The rubber isolator
was alot better part. I bought the Carter setup; it actually came with a reinforced rubber, gasoline resistant line. It is alot different from what I put on the car the first time and what was pulled off.
Very sturdy. I finally moved the car under it's own power!!! Pressure is steady at 13 psi. Now if I can just get the exhaust off the ground.........

Thanks again to all of you! Have a great Turkey Day! :hail:

 

Having similar issue with a 1988 Camaro 5.0 tbi. When the injectors do put out fuel and it does start it will run about 30 seconds before the injectors cut out completely. No way congress will approve another red-cent spent on this hunk of junk so I tested fuel pressure with the gallon-jug and thumb method; there's decent pressure with good even flow. I read somewhere to carefully check the four wires coming out from behind the accelerator as they send the signal to the injectors to pulsate fuel. Feel like it's either the ECM or a faulty connection someplace. If this thing isn't running by Monday I'm going to push it into a tree!

 

Check your oil pressure, TPI cars have a oil psi cutout if the pressure gets too low, I can't remember but I am almost sure TBI cars have the same thing. It is sensor that plugs in above the oil filter. My Friends T/A was having a strange dying problem and it was because it was REAL LOW on oil.
Other than that, check relays and maybe even have you ignition module tested at the parts store, it could be dying, once it gets a little heat in it, it could kill the signal to the ecm to fire the injectors.
Yet another thing. My Dad's TBI truck had a dying issue at idle. It was the distributor. Remove your cap, if you see a strange yellowish dust, you pick up coil is shot, just change the whole dizzy, it makes a big difference, and in most cases comes with a new module.