help please !!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
help please !!!!
I am at my wits end on this thing i have replaced so many things and i still have the same problem I have replaced the TPS, CTS, air temp sensor brain box, AIC checked for vacume leaks and can find none this car is running so bad, im ready to sell it but cant when it runs so bad, I dont no what else to do to it I have very little money and have spent alot and have had no results.....please help im desperate !!!!! the car just dose not run good at all it surges when its cold, bogs down, cuts off when stopping , what do i do next ???
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Greenville, SC
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
What about fuel pressure? Have you or a mechanic checked that? Exactly what engine are we talking about, just so we know (don't worry, as long as it's TBI, the thread won't get locked), 305, 350, 454?
EDIT: Nevermind, i saw your other post. Here's how to check codes, from the FAQ page:
Once you get the codes, post them here and I or someone else can tell you what they mean. Also, a Haynes or Chilton's manual ($20 at any auto parts store) tells you how to do this, what the codes mean, as well as all kinds of other info. It's great for learning the basics about your car.
EDIT: Nevermind, i saw your other post. Here's how to check codes, from the FAQ page:
Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?
A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.
THE CONNECTOR
-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------
DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.
CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.
A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.
THE CONNECTOR
-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------
DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.
CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.
Last edited by Benm109; Dec 24, 2004 at 03:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 46
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im not getting any error codes just the constant flashing 12 but i did disconnect the battery after replacing all the sensors i was getting an o2 sensor code to begin with and replaced it, i dont know what to do from here it runs real crappy and its not picking up any new codes....im at a complete loss of what to do i spent all this money on sensors and such with nothing to show for it but a bunch of little boxes to put my collectable hot wheels cars in
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 46
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OK Here is a list of all I have done to try in fix this problem
new brain(computer) same chip
TPS
CTS
O2 sensor
air temp sensor
idle controler
fuel filter
new cap and rotor
new plugs and wires
after replacing the plugs and wires and cap and rotor it runs alot better, but its still rough idle at start-up and has a hesitation when you give it gas from a stoplight or even if i am already moving there is hesitation.........im running out of ideas here
new brain(computer) same chip
TPS
CTS
O2 sensor
air temp sensor
idle controler
fuel filter
new cap and rotor
new plugs and wires
after replacing the plugs and wires and cap and rotor it runs alot better, but its still rough idle at start-up and has a hesitation when you give it gas from a stoplight or even if i am already moving there is hesitation.........im running out of ideas here
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Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Western NY
Car: 71
Engine: 406
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42 8.5" 10b
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? base of the throttle body, vac lines off, brake booster etc? Is the EGR losing vaccuum? How about exhaust manifold/header leaks since you say you got an O2 code initially. Just food for thought.
Mike
Mike
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Western NY
Car: 71
Engine: 406
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42 8.5" 10b
On the intake, aside from visually inspecting lines, I've heard of guys shooting a wiff of starting fluid at the base of the throttle body, etc and see if there's any change in rpm. The brake booster, I'd try plugging the line to it and see if it solves the problem. Same with the EGR unless you have a hand vacuum pump. If you have headers, I'd turn all the lights off under the hood at night and look for pinholes etc in the tubes. If you have exhaust manifolds, I'd check the torque on them to start. I've had my manifolds loosen up and actually had a couple bolts fall out. It really confused my O2 sensor. You could try checking the torque on the throttle body bolts as well especially if you've messed with it recently, in which case I'd check the gasket as well.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 46
Likes: 1
Its Fixed !!!! heres what I did i had a mech shoot some fuel injection treatment directly into the fuel lines to clean the injectors and now it runs like a champ, thank you so much for all the help on this forum and i hope this helps someone else who is having the same problem