OK, I don't have a timing tab on my timing cover, and I want to wait with replacing the cover when I will replace the waterpump, change the oil.


As far as I know, the engine's all stock, so is there a way of doing it without the timing marker ?



Actually... can someone maybe tell me ... where the zero is.. in degrees.(such as 45 degrees 60 or what) .. or clock wise (1:30 .. 2 o clocl .. 3 o clock) ... measured from the center of the crank ? I would really appreciate this guys

Advanced Auto, as well as others I'm sure, sell bolt on timing tabs. They should work if they are the right kind. GM used two different kinds one was mounted at 12 O'clock and the other was more like 2 O'clock. Some one else will have to chime in as to which one you'll need.

Are you absolutly sure you don't have one? Their spot welded to the timing cover, so some one would have had to mangle it pretty bad to get it off, or replaced the timing cover. If it's mounted at 12 O'clock it can be pretty hard to see. Best way is to look behind the water pump from up top, you'll need a light because it's dark behind there even in daylight. You really don't want to change the timing cover, you have to drop the oil pan to get it off, which is not fun with the engine in the car.

i have the same car, u need the 2 o'clock one, hope that helps

I agree ..... like I said... hadn't planned on replacing the timing cover until replacing the waterpump time would come up

I'll check it out..

Thanks guys

OK... burried in there .. I finally did find the timing mark .. at the 12 o clock position ...


Now a question here.. .having a little bit of a problem with the rear screw for the distributor cap.. had problems removing it last time... and I don't want to strip it out completely ... is it a standard screw ... or ... what ?


I may have to get a rebuild kit for the TBI.. or... maybe new fuel line fittings and possibly look at the threads of the fuel line going into the injector housing... problems with fuel leakage there

On my 91 305 TBI M5 stock motor, the timing mark is pretty much right at the top.
I am not sure if these type of motors came with a stock timing mark (on the balancer) at the "2:00" position- not likely, but possible.
Unless it is absolutely necessary to dink around with the timing, I'd leave it be until you get a timing cover with a pointer and verfiy what balancer you have.
Please consider that moving the timing mark perhaps 1/4" on the outer edge of the stock Harmonic Balancer can change your timing by up to 4*. Things can get out of hand in hurry if you
have no sure reference and you start twisting the distributor.

As BMMonte mentions, re-check for the timing tab at the 12:00 position- it should be there.
If not and you can verify you have the stock Harmonic Balancer, I would try the 12:00 position setting first.

The answer will obvious in how the engine runs. The normal max advance on these engine is about 4-6*. If you are looking at the difference between being right on and 60* off, it will be a matter of at which setting the engine will start and run.

S-D

You know what my timing mark is at 12 oclock also. I can't find a timing tab that will work. The one that I have is at 2 or so. I basically just did the best I can lining up at tdc. I was thinking of drawing a line on the balancer. Don't know does anybody know where I can get the right timing tab?

I have to set the timing.. driving my buddy's van right now ... because I had to change my intake manifold gasket... so.. timing got messed up... idle at 1800-2000 rpm when I fired it up lol

700 rpm at idle would be correct.. ?

Nice. That sounds like it idleing a little fast Dude 750 sounds good to me.

i havent played with timing on my car yet... I'm hoping to do it today.

My car's idle is 600 in neutral when warm, and around 500 in gear.

Now that I think about it... I'm going to advance my timing right now

You don't adjust your idle speed by setting the timing. The ECM controls the idle no matter what the timing is at. A high idle is a result of advancing it too far.

my idle is 200-400rpms depending on if i just start it up or i just came to a stop. i love it, makes my car shake like i got something under the hood besides a cam

tell me you're joking

i just advanced my timing by 6* it was set at 2* retarded, now it's at 4* advance.

I feel a huge improvement. When I romp on it off the line it spins the "tire" lol

Like I said .. replaced the intake manifold gasket ... and I must have advanced the timing quite a bit when I dropped the distributor back in

Before that.. I did have that vacuum leak so idle was jumping up and down.. but more around hmmm 1000 rpm .. still a bit too high

Now it's 1800 or more rpm.. so yeah... down to 700 or 750 is where it should be



Now one question here ... overheating... can it be caused by advancing the timing way too much ??? When I started the car ... well... it heated up extremely fast ... so.. maybe my thermostat is stuck.. or I got tons of air in my system.. blocking the coolant

pop the cap off and see if the thermostat opens

OK, got it to TDC ... put the rotor pointing towards no.1

Engine doesn't start


And ... the TBI leaks .. .from one of the fuel line fittings... I suspect the threads may have gotten stripped .. would a rethread kit fix this ??


As far as won't start.. I doubt it's just due to lack of enough fuel... I must have either turned the distributor 180 degrees.. or... somehow connected spark plug wires in the wrong order to the cap....

Although,.. it did start before... so I'm leaning towards distributor being turned the wrong way

There isn't really such a thing as having your distributor 180° off. If you were at TDC for the #1 with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug terminal than the motor should fire.

As for the fuels lines I would check the white teflon rings that connect onto the fuel lines. Back them out and check to see if they are cracked and or missing.

Reason I suggested that was... I remember long time ago I did a misstake to my Spider, reconnected the sparkplug wires... knew the firing order.. but.. did it from the wrong side ... so ..

Teflon rings ... ok... now if they are indeed missing or cracked ... where can I get new ones ? ... Can one buy them separately ... do they come i nthe rebuild kit only... or... can one use .. roflmao.. teflon tape