081 heads, 1.6 rr, what cam.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 327
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From: jacksonville, fl
Car: 1988 firebird
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 95 T56
Axle/Gears: stock 10 built, yukon diff, 4.10
081 heads, 1.6 rr, what cam.
i have searched, probably not enough though. i recently purchased a 081 heads with 2.02 int and 1.60 exh. stainless steel valves, screw in rocker studs, the springs are double 1.437, and 1.6 rr. what size cam can i get with that setup? need some suggestions. computer tuning will come later on down the road once my money gets back up.
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
LT4 HOT CAM nuff said.
I got a LT4 hot cam, don't think you going to put this cam in a drive away, Bigger fuel pump 80 plus injectors and higher fuel pressuer and a **** lot of tuning is needed and if you got an auto a stall is a very good idea. hell I've been mesing with my combo fo over a year and still don't have it down with the tuning( part of this could be bacause I'm retarted).
If this is your first time tuning a EFI I would go with a very mild cam. Once you put a cam in there is nothing but tuning to get it right so you might want to make a change of plans. One day I did not lock a chip down right and ithe motor fired up on the back up cailbration and it did idle at 500 but after a few seconds it started a nasty back fire. I would never even try to drive a LT4 hot cam with the stock chip unless your really into building new engines.
If this is your first time tuning a EFI I would go with a very mild cam. Once you put a cam in there is nothing but tuning to get it right so you might want to make a change of plans. One day I did not lock a chip down right and ithe motor fired up on the back up cailbration and it did idle at 500 but after a few seconds it started a nasty back fire. I would never even try to drive a LT4 hot cam with the stock chip unless your really into building new engines.
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I don't believe those big valve heads will even fit your 305. They may not clear, but even if they do clear you'll have massive valve shrouding. Biggest combination I'd run on a 305 is 1.94/1.60
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 327
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From: jacksonville, fl
Car: 1988 firebird
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 95 T56
Axle/Gears: stock 10 built, yukon diff, 4.10
do you know anyone running big valves like that. did they have any problems. now if the valves are to big is there away to take the intake valve out and put the smaller 1.94 valve in? or would i just have to buy new heads again? yes i planning on getting a ship burned. i found the aldl cables. now i just need to down load the software to my labtop.
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
You will have problems with the 2.02 valves, you don't want them. Even if they do fit you won't make good power, or at least any increase in power because of the massive amount of valve shrouding you'll get. You want a new set of heads with the 1.94 valves in them, you can't fit them into these heads.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,777
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by BronYrAur
You will have problems with the 2.02 valves, you don't want them. Even if they do fit you won't make good power, or at least any increase in power because of the massive amount of valve shrouding you'll get. You want a new set of heads with the 1.94 valves in them, you can't fit them into these heads.
You will have problems with the 2.02 valves, you don't want them. Even if they do fit you won't make good power, or at least any increase in power because of the massive amount of valve shrouding you'll get. You want a new set of heads with the 1.94 valves in them, you can't fit them into these heads.
Originally posted by robertfrank
LT4 HOT CAM nuff said.
LT4 HOT CAM nuff said.
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Car: 1988 camaro "SS"/ 1991 305/T5
Engine: 383 LT1 in progress/LT1TBI 355 soon
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 3600 stall/ T5
Axle/Gears: Moser axles, 3.42 Eaton Posi
well before everybody starts throwing stones at me for my comment I meant for him to get that cam provided he did get EVERYTHING set up for it. By no means did I say just throw it in and run with it. I know that he`ll need QUITE abit of tuning and head prep too get it running perfectly,I was just throwing out an option.
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Nevertheless, even with it tuned, I dont think the Hot cam is the best choice for a 305 with stock GM heads. I could see using it with some great flowing heads, or maybe even Vortec heads, but I think it's too much cam for a stock 081 headed 305. I've got the ZZ4 in mine, I like its powerband.
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
With a 305, and heads. IF you are compentant tuner, and your heads are set up, and the motor is fairly fresh. I would shoot for something in the 210/220 .480 lift or more. Go with 112 or higher LSA.
I'm currently running a 206/216 .447 .447 112 cam. It is good for a stock motor with miles on it. Unless it is a fairly new motor, I wouldn't go too much bigger than I have, the powerband will get to the point that you don't want to be turnning the motor to.
I'm currently running a 206/216 .447 .447 112 cam. It is good for a stock motor with miles on it. Unless it is a fairly new motor, I wouldn't go too much bigger than I have, the powerband will get to the point that you don't want to be turnning the motor to.
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Dewey316
Unless it is a fairly new motor, I wouldn't go too much bigger than I have, the powerband will get to the point that you don't want to be turnning the motor to.
Unless it is a fairly new motor, I wouldn't go too much bigger than I have, the powerband will get to the point that you don't want to be turnning the motor to.
I have around 197K on the shortblock.
That's why so many 350 questions from me lately.
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by DM91RS
Bron I forget
have you got it back on the road now?
Bron I forget

have you got it back on the road now?
The wires to the ECM got wet with coolant and now it won't run right at all, its running horrible. Took the ECM out, cleaned out, cleaned the connectors, checked all grounds, its running really "odd" sometimes flickering the SES light, sometimes not. It won't idle, it just dies. Have a feeling I fried the ECM, but I don't want to have to replace it because i have a PROMinator soldered onto this one! Grr I just came in now because i tried sorting some stuff out and tried to start it and the brand new battery is dead now. Here we go again... Did I mention that after I started it up after putting the heads on the alternator went out and i had to get a new one? Everything is breaking at once, it's real fun. *end of rant*
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by DM91RS
I have around 197K on the shortblock.
I have around 197K on the shortblock.
I have a 327 in my garage, waiting for money to get machined, and built up to handle some serious turbo-charging.
If you are going small block, go big-bore. Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Dayum........what a bitch about the ECU. I just did the heater core thing a few months ago so I feel your pain on that one also.
FYI.......I got to all the bolts on the heater cover from the floorboard without taking out the dash pad as some have had to do. I never had done it before and the worst thing about it was having to twist around in the underdash area and being almost 6ft-200lbs. There is one bolt on the very top of the unit that you will have to get a "feel" for to get the socket with a 6" IIRC extention on there. But it only took around 2 hours my 1st try to do the whole job. Just don't get frustrated and do a Ken Shamrock with the core trying to get it out or back in. (Don't ask me why
)
FYI.......I got to all the bolts on the heater cover from the floorboard without taking out the dash pad as some have had to do. I never had done it before and the worst thing about it was having to twist around in the underdash area and being almost 6ft-200lbs. There is one bolt on the very top of the unit that you will have to get a "feel" for to get the socket with a 6" IIRC extention on there. But it only took around 2 hours my 1st try to do the whole job. Just don't get frustrated and do a Ken Shamrock with the core trying to get it out or back in. (Don't ask me why
) Last edited by DM91RS; Jan 7, 2006 at 07:45 AM.
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From: Ga
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Dewey316
That is too funny. I'm at 197K and some change.
I have a 327 in my garage, waiting for money to get machined, and built up to handle some serious turbo-charging.
If you are going small block, go big-bore.
That is too funny. I'm at 197K and some change.
I have a 327 in my garage, waiting for money to get machined, and built up to handle some serious turbo-charging.
If you are going small block, go big-bore.
Last edited by DM91RS; Jan 7, 2006 at 07:46 AM.
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