I have a stock 305 TBI and I want to run low 14’s what would be the best way to get to this by putting in a 350 TBI or to put my money in to the 305. If it is putting in to the 305 what should I do to it for the most bang for my buck. Thank you all in advance

 

Yep im a douche.

 

Why not high 13's?
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It'll work out guys, don't worry!

 

You have alot of options man. I'm not the smartest on here but if you keep your 305tbi you will need to know how to tune such as chip burning and such. It will be a must after you get a full exhaust, cam,heads, maybe nitrous. There is an article where some guys took a 305tbi and made 330 engine hp by getting vortec heads and porting them out, cam swap etc. Or you could just get a hotter cam and nitrous and you should be close to low 14's (along with alot of tuning)

 

you can do it without n2o.

do full exhaust first, headers all the way back, then start learning how to tune the thing before you start adding things like cam/heads/intake, etc.

 

Exaust, and cams are where it is at. You WILL need to work with the computer. There is absolutly no way around that. If you go with RBob's EBL system, or burn your own chips, you can do it. But, you absolutly 100% will need to do computer work. the LT1 cam, will get you into the mid 14's. A hotter cam than that, and some head work, you can go low 14's, or 13's, or whatever, depending on your cam. There is already a ton of info on combo's that can do this, spend a bunch of time reading this board, combo's that will do this have been covered in debth, there are plenty of us who have done it, just use the info from our builds, and then TUNE IT CORRECTLY!
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Yup, you can do it pretty easily, without nitrous.

 

If your car is in good shape and in a good state of tune you should be in the high to mid 14's with just bolt-ons.Start with gears(3.73's with a stick,3.42's with an auto),headers and 1.6 rockers.with those alone should get your car very close to your goal.With a tune with just these three I think you can get there.Before I get flamed for what I just said let me add in weight reduction,trust me it works.Tell us what your overall plans for the car are and we can help you out atlittle better.

 

Well it is my daily drive now and I want the car to be fast enough to beat my friends 01 mustang and most of my other friends cars but after I some good money coming in I want to get the car down to 12s I have another car I can drive around when this one is getting work so. As it stands I was thinking LT1 cam and heads my friend does really nice porting jobs and putting a custom true dual exhaust flow master 40s with high flow cats. IF true dual is not possible the flow master 40’s kit will be on her. I do some computer programming so burning a chip is more than ok with me where to I get the soft ware to do it with and where do I get the provenance chip to put it on.

 

That should get you into the 14's easily.

A 305 can get you into the 12's - look at mw66nova's 305 - but it will be an easier task with a bigger motor.

I think you should set some very clear goals and then decide what's the cheapest, easiest and most appealing path to get there. The 305 can get you into the 14's for relatively little money. It wouldn't cost much more to get into the 13's (a better cam and maybe some more head and valve work) ...you might even break into the 12's if you get everything right. Keep in mind though, that if you start regularly spinning an L03 above 6000 RPM you'd be well off to replace the crankshaft and get some strong main bearing studs. At that point you'll have the engine out and would have started to sink some serious money into the 305 ...that's when you might want to consider a bigger motor. But, on the other hand, it really all comes down to what you want.

 

intake, full exhaust, chip tune...and bam he easily has a low to mid 14 second car.

 

A 305 can be made to run, but it is alot easier with a 350. I will let you'll know where I stand after the head swap tommorrow. I am at 16.18 @ 86 MPH with a best 60' of 1.9s in a 5,500 lbs beast with a 350 TBI and stock swirl ports on it. The swap will be Dart Iron Eagle 215s. As much as I want to do a cam, the HT383 cam is staying for now.

 

Just those bolt-ons won't get you into the low 14's with a L03. Maybe low 15's at best, especially if running a factory rear end.

 

If I were you I would look to the future with every bolt on. In other words make sure whatever you buy will work well with a 350. The HP for $ ratio of a swap is about as good as it gets. So I would start with the usuall full exhaust, intake, and then maybe 1.6 rockers instead of a cam so that you can get a cam that better fits the 350 later on. Like mentioned before tuning is KEY. Full bolt ons and tuning will get you into the 14's, but a cam or 350 swap will be needed for low 14's to high 13's. I've ran a 13.8 @98 before with a stock block 350, 305 heads, 218/226 cam, and full bolt ons. A good set of heads will get you deep into the 13's if not 12's.

Check out the stickies at the top of this thread and on the DIY prom board for where to get started. My "come in for a free tune" sticky has helped quite a few people, although it's geared more for the ultra newbie. Your computer skills will help you greatly.

 

Good choice.

 

I think you're understating the importance of the tune a bit. While I agree it's possible; I'm in the mid 15s with NO tuning and the stock intake and rockers, bolting ALL of the parts on probably won't get him past the 15.20s-15.30s; the rest is all in the chip, and it'll take a pretty good tuner to get it.
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You're eventually going to end up like the big brother of the guy on Pinks with the 12 second van.

 

I agree completely. A motor can only make a certain horsepower from a certain quantity of fuel, and that mixture has to be ignited at the proper time. Once your modifications get past the point of the ECM's ability to compensate effectively then it doesn't matter what modifications you make, the injectors aren't going to supply enough fuel and the proper spark to make the power. People tend to think that if the motor runs then everything must be "fine", but the power the motor "should" have is often left "hidden" in the PROM.

 

That's the tricky part Casey, our ECM's don't compensate at WOT. So as soon as you mess with pretty much anything that makes power your going to be operating outside of the ECM's calibration. Luckily GM made these cars rich from the factory so a couple of minor mods like exhaust or an intake usually don't get them too far lean at WOT. The problem is all engines aren't created equally so one engine might be borderline lean from the factory while another has enough fuel for 30 more HP.

 

ok I went to the track with it all stock this is my first time on a track and I did 5 pulls this is a automatic 305 TBI RS Camaro best ¼ mile time was 16.830 with .458 reaction time and @ 82.28, 2.752 60 feet, 1/8 mile time 10.9111, @ 67.20.
My best 60ft was 2.6631 with a .227 reaction time. I will be doing the ultimate TBI if I can find a good way to break the tack wields on the silencer ring.. Where is the best place to get a positive track 3.55 gears or positive track3.75 gears all ready done ready to bolt on.

 

nobody makes a 3.55 gear for the 7.5"...you'll need a 3.42 or 3.73 gear. you can get whole rearends for decent prices in the classifieds on this board.

 

I set up the ring gear and pinion from a 1995 Z28 onto a posi differential from a third gen ...and put all of that into my own third gen. I used the shims from my original differential and the pinion shim from the Z28. It worked out perfectly. Backlash, contact pattern, everything was dead-on. If you stick to GM parts made for the 7.625" rear-end, then the stock production shims can make it easy to set up the "new" parts because they were all designed to work with the same components interchangeably and GM used the same "standard" size shims in many of the rear-ends over the years.

But you really can't simply assume that because you're using all GM parts then everything will just be fine - you still have to take the measurements and check the contact pattern as if you're setting up any gear set.

If you use aftermarket parts, however, you won't be so "lucky". You'll have to mix and match your shims to get the correct backlash and contact pattern. In that case, the only way you'd get a bolt-on is if you got the entire rear-end.

So, you have a choice: Get a complete rear-end, or take the measurements and set the gears up properly. In that case, if you go with all GM stock parts you might have an easier task ...but if you want real strength you'll have to go to the aftermarket anyway.

That said, installing gears isn't as difficult as many people believe ...it just requires patience and a dial indicator.

 

Another EASY GM ring and pinon score is from a S10 Blazer/ S15 GMC Jimmy. The later 80s ones with the 2.8 TBI and 4WD have 3.73 gears in them, yet it is still the little 7.625" 10 bolt. Astro/Safari mini-vans have the same 7.625" 10 bolt, but often have 3.42s as the 4.3 has alot more torque. Tow packages OFTEN have 3.73s!

 

Yeah your gonna need 3.42. You can buy it off places like these boards, ebay, or if you put a little effort into it, find a perfectly good whole rear end at a wrecking shop. My friend tore up the gears and cracked the casing on the rear end of his 93 bronco (yeah, ford). Anyways we pulled a whole rear end, in great condition, from a wrecking yard for 200 bucks. Took us just two hours to find the place, get in, and get out.

 

Ouch! need to work on that launch first, you should be able to drop that down to a 2.1-2.2 even with the 2.73 gears. All things considered every tenth you drop off your 60' is 2 tenths in the quarter. That first 60' of the track is the most important. How are you launching? You should be able to pretty much hold the brake and flat foot it, then on the last yellow light let loose of the brake.

 

My best launch was when the last yellow light came on and i spun my tires I really need to work on my launch and NOT SPINING but it looks like i may have a extra 1000 to spend on the car after this Friday a contract for my business came throw and if I can close it all will be great.

 

then get some gears without a doubt.3.42's with a strong posi.get a solid diff cover like either a summit one or one from thunder racing.If you're going to replace the gears go a head and rebuild the whole rear end with stronger parts.

 

the track weather
95°F 70 % humidity at 5pm
91°F 75 % humidity at 7pm
87°F 75 % humidity at 9pm

 

Good luck not spinning with an open diff. With $1k, Id get an exhaust, or build the rearend up. I went from 16.80s, to 16.28, with an ignition module, headers, 3" cat, and 3" catback, and a K&N (at Bristol, 1475 ft). I also changed to new tires, and wheels, because I got a good deal, and they helped, but not as much as the exhaust. Its amazing. Im told gears, and roller rockers help as much as the exhaust. Im saving to get an EBL, and the tuning equipment, so I can start really modding. Im convinced I can go 14s, with TB mods, a tune, an intake, and roller rockers. But, Im gonna be building an engine more than likely. Im shooting for low 11s, and my L03 wont do it. So Im considering a 355.

 

ok i have my data log and i plan on burning it on my nest day off I plane on getting

Hooker Super Competition Headers
Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust Systems
Truetrac 3.42 gears
Competition Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kit


It is all about 1800 and with tune yall think that will put me in mid 14's

 

What are the specs on the Comp Cam? Your sig says you're running an L03 305, which is a hydraulic roller cam motor. Make sure you're looking at hydraulic roller cams, in which case you should not need lifters (reuse the stock hydraulic roller lifters).

Assuming the cam is moderatly aggressive . . . . with the exhaust, rear gears, and a good tune, mid 14's should be no problem.

 

Brand:COMP Cams
Product Line:Competition Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,500 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 274
Advertised Duration: 270 int./274 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 int./0.474 exh.
lift Lobe Separation (degrees): 111 Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Grind Number: CS X4 270HR-11
Computer Controlled Compatible: Yes
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic roller
Valve Springs Included: Yes
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in): 1.254 in.
Retainers Included: Yes
Locks Included: Yes
Valve Stem Seals Included: Yes
Timing Chain and Gears Included: Yes
Timing Chain Style: Double non-roller Assembly Lubricant Included: Yes
Pushrods Included: No
Rocker Arms Included: No
Gaskets Included: No
Quantity: Sold as a kit.

 

IMO that cam is enough to get you to your quarter mile time goal. It's fairly close to a LT4 hot cam grind, but with a little less lift and LSA. As others have already said, tuning will be the key. If this is your first time tuning tbi efi, I'd suggest getting the equipment now and optimize your current setup to get the hang of things.