Hey

I want my car to run low 14s ... maybe high 13s.
So Far I have planned
- Hooker Catback
- Hooker Headers
- TPIS airfoil
- TPIS AFPR
- K&N Filters

Im not sure what the car runs now but I am thinking between 15.1 and 15.4.

With those mods I think that I will be able to get to 14.5 - 14.7.
What else do u suggest getting so that I can get my car into low 14s possibly high 13s.

Thanks
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/56424

edit: sorry, no technically unrelated pics in posts please

 

Here's what I did (check sig)!
BD3:hail:

 

I really don't see low 14s with the mods you have listed. Sorry, but I'm just being honest with ya.

I would look into a nice Torque converter like a Vigilante or a Yank as that will give you a very nice gain in 60' performance. Then siamese the intake base and port the plenum to gain some top end performance..... Do those things along with the bolt ons you have listed, spend some time tuning it the best you can with the AFPR (or get into tuning the PROM as that is the real way to do it) and you should see low 14s or maybe a high 13.

my $.02

 

what gears do you have?
auto or 5spd?

my peanut cam'ed, 2.73 geared 305 auto does 14.9's with headers, chip, and cat back on steet tires.

 

I have 3.42 gears with limited slip and the auto trans. Its an 85 so it doesnt have the peanut cam.

 

if you wanna get into the motor, i would swap the cam for like a comp cam 210/220 duration cam. That and a nice torque converter should bring you into the low 14's along with the mods you plan. ditch the airfoil, thats the biggest waste of money I've ever done.

 

do what i did. i should be in 13's now. going to the track this friday
i wish i woulda put a bigger cam in it now but oh well. it would be easy 13's with a bigger cam. all this is on street tires.
Andrew

 

TRY A ****LOAD OF NITROUS? IF YOU CAN STROKE IT OUT TO A 335, POWERHOUSE SELLS A STROKER KIT FOR 305'S AND THEY SAY A 105HP INCREASE ON FUEL INJECTED ENGINES!!!

 

Those are some Really impressive times smokin87.

You say you siamesed the intake 4" In, Happen to have any pictures From before you put it all Together ?

Im very interested to see how you pulled such quick times on the essentially stock setup. Giving Ed a Run for his money

Please elaborate.

Don't listen to that guy. We will just pretend he never posted that.

 

i must say that those numbers seem a bit shady smoken 87
are you sure all you did was the headers and y-pipe to get to 14.23
look at my sig and my 1/4mile times
seems abit odd
i have more stuff done that you
are you sure your not running a 350 because that is very fast
a stock 5 speed tpi 305 runs 15.6
weel i also have to consider that i cant hookup right now and if i could i would be about at 14.5 i think

 

geez. thats pretty quick. The best times I could muster up with my 305/5 sp was 15.4 on my 91 z28. That was with 3.42 gears, borla exhaust, and dynomax high flow cat. That is some fast times especially with a near stock automatic 305.

 

removing all the smog including the cat, headers, and the lhigher converter helped the most

 

well if i could get the stupid internet at my house to work i could scan about 10-15 timeslips of me in the low 14's. i have done all the free mods but like ed says its just fixing what the factory did wrong.
i would just say that the tolerances just stacked up in my favor. and no i don't have a 350 look at my torque numbers. stock i was running what you guys were. i do pride myself in being able to drive my car the way it needs to be driven. if you want to pay to have my heads taken off you can have a mechanic check the bore size.
as for pics here's one and i may post a couple more

 

whole setup

 

probably won't do much but here's a pic of the cylinder if you can make a measurement off that by relating it to the size of the lifters.

 

ok first off all you really have are headers and a y-pipe. keep in mind i have a 3 inch y-pipe so that i can make power up higher since i siamesed my base so that i could make power up higher (in rpm range that is). i do need to fix my sig because i ran those times with the intake siamesed. it was only 1.5 inches and it didn't feel like it did much if any at all so thats why i didn't put it on there. 1.5 inches (as said elsewhere) is more like a little window and not much is gonna be pulled from there.
second you have an automatic which means you have the weaker cam which will make a difference.
third. look at your mph. i've got you by almost 10 mph which equates to 100 hp but that can't be all true. you have to look at the race weights. i weigh in at 3400-3500 lbs with me in the car so thats 3200-3300 without me.
fourth, my times aren't corrected and i bet yours aren't either. my track is at 1200 feet and it was fairly cool that night but the humidity is always a little high here in oklahoma. if i correct my best run for elevation alone i'm running a 13.9 @ 100 or there abouts. you may be at a higher elevation than me and ran when it was really humid so its harder to equate times unless they are corrected.
i also don't see you blowing the doors off of gt's and lt1's, let alone beating them. most stock lt1's run mid to low 14's at 99-100mph. and just like our cars you aren't gonna find too many on the street that are stock.
but anyways just keep with it. its not what you have its how well is it in tune!
good luck
Andrew

 

does anyone know at what hight above sea level the englishtown track in NJ is
i would like to correct my numbers if there is anything to correct

 

go here for altitude correction only
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/altitude.html

go here to do more than just altitude
http://www.prestage.com/carmath/

Andrew

 

englishtown is like close enough to sea level to not even bother.....

 

I would port the intake, plenum and runners. TB coolant bypass, and aluminum driveshaft. That was good for a best of 14.21 @96mph in my 92 Z28 convt with 3:08 rear and eagle GA tires. She runs 14.5 all day. This was on a perfect day at Maryland Intl Raceway which is as close to sea level as you can get.
I was pretty hard on the centerforce clutch but hey, racing is hard on parts.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jerflash
i have more stuff done that you
are you sure your not running a 350 because that is very fast
a stock 5 speed tpi 305 runs 15.6

I would beg to differ. A stock 305 5/speed runs in the high 14s.
Engine condition and driver ability taken into consideration. 15.6 is an auto/TBI car.
I ran consistent 13.9s and a one time 13.8 w/my mods, but I only race my car 4 or 5 times per visit.

Hey, smokin87iroc.
I'm in the process of siamesing my plennum, SLP runners and Edlebrock base. I'm using a carbide bur. What did you use to do yours? Assuming you used a carbide tool, what sizes/shapes. Can you show a pic, please?
Thanks in advance

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PONTIMANIAC 90

Quote:

I ran consistent 13.9s and a one time 13.8 w/my mods.....

Hey, smokin87iroc.
I'm in the process of siamesing my plennum, SLP runners and Edlebrock base. I'm using a carbide bur. What did you use to do yours? Assuming you used a carbide tool, what sizes/shapes. Can you show a pic, please?

Very nice times for stock heads and cam on a 305!! . You must have really been pulling some nice short times.

I'm also interested in what he used to siamese the base. I have been converted from the LT1 mod to the siamesed base mod . I am thinking about using a portable jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to cut a bunch of slices into the divider walls and then break out the chunks and smooth it from there with a carbide bit..... I have seen pics of people using a drill press with a HUGE bit as well, but the only DP I have access to is too dinky to handle that kind of work.

Course, I am always open to more attractive and effective methods . How far are you gonna go in on yours?

Laterzzz,
Matt

 

i used both the cylinder shaped carbide bits to get it back where i wanted it and then the football shaped carbide bit to smooth everything up. i also got some bits with long shanks to go that deep. i used a die grinder (40,000 rpms baby ) and you go through aluminum in no time. try to get aluminum carbide bits so they won't gum up with the aluminum shavings. they have bigger spaces between the teeth on the bits.
Andrew

 

Back to the original question, once you get the exhaust a nice higher stall converter I would think would put you at low 14s.

 

well i know you guys wanted to hear about my new times. well here they are.
first run
14.6 @ 94 2.26 60ft
i was thinking that i bumped the timing up too much and the fuel up too much so i put them back to stock settings to work from there
run 2
15.0 @ 94 2.4 60ft
i was like well crap. so i was messin with my fuel pressure again, i knew my fuel pump was going out but i didn't think it was that bad, so i decide to pull the coil wire to kill the car and watch the fuel pressure, my injectors had been ticking but people say its normal, as soon as i pulled the wire the fuel pressure dropped to zero. so now i have a leaky injector great! but the fun isn't over
run 3
bumped up timing for this run a little and bumped fuel up a little
15.67 @ 90 2.6 60ft
car almost died on take off. stupid injector
so i decide to give it a little more timing and some more fuel and see what would happen and i would be done for the night
run 4
19.6 @ 46 2.5 60ft
launch was better than last run but still felt really weak. shift into second and that felt good, climbing 2nd and rpm's stick at 4500 rpms. i push in the clutch and let off the gas and the car dies. i try to pop the clutch in 4th to restart it and it won't start. so i pull off and look for coil wire to have slipped off and nope. so i go back and after a little cranking it starts up with some pretty loud clanking and ticking. i listen and it sounds like a rocker arm broke or came off or what not.
so i get it home and this morning i pull the valve covers and all the valvetrain is fine so it looks like i spun a bearing. i don't see how since i didn't touch anything down there but i guess it was just time for it to let go.
i guess i'm gonna just get a crate 350 shortblock or something for now because i don't have the money to build the 400 i want but we'll see.
good luck to everyone else and i hope this doesn't happen to you
Andrew

p.s. funny thing is my 19 was faster than some ricers hahahahaha

 

sorry to hear about your engine crapping out... mine died in 2000 - i had it rebuilt by a shop since i needed it in 5 days - they put a peanut cam in my 305 when i originally had an l98 cam (massive stalling and problems) it took me months to figure thos out too - not to mention the 2000$ i spent on other parts ie Ignition/fuel system... so after 6 months I was able to get enough money together to buy the cam i wanted - but alas my engine was destroyed in the installation process... lol - hope you have better luck

 

well i'm just getting a remanufactured 350. a fast 305 is nice but why pay more to rebuild it than you can pay for a rebuilt 350? so now i can't wait shhh don't tell anyone
Andrew

 

Sorry To hear that Smokin... Seems like every 305 that Starts to get fast, Falls Apart

On your Baseplte, Why Didnt you Go any wider with the Siamese ?

I wish I had a camera to take a pic of mine, But What I did is I went in about 2.5" But I widened it out so the vertical Space between the two Runners was nearly as Large as the Runners Themselves.

I cut a teardrop around the lower bolt hole, and Just pushed the Upper Ridge to the limit of structural integrity.

The problem Im Having now, Is I can't get my Grinder in Any Farther. I may try It Just like this, and Then grab myself a second base Down the road and Put it on a drillpress and take it down 5 or 6 inches For comparison.


Seems to Me that you need about 4-4.5" To get the real effect of being able to pull from both Runners... But Some people say no... I guess only Timeslips or Dyno PUlls Will Tell )

 

Uh Hmm, It Kinda looks like This....

Oh yeah that worked real nice, here...

 

Don't tell Tim Burgess that!! LOL

What set-up are you running Bort? I've only seen parts of it.

 

I have a 334 stroker with a 454 TBI ontop of it.

Hoping for High 16's thiS summer.

 

You funny

 

Smokin....they're not attacking you saying that you dont run a low 14 or whatever you run....but in your sig, it says that you ran a 15.3 stock, then a 14.3 w/ headers and a y-pipe. Nobody in the history or earth has gained a full second off of headers and y-pipe....maybe you didn't list all your mods in between that 15.3 and 14.3, i dunno....but that is what they're doubting.

 

the 15.2 was my first time to the track. if you look at the mph you will see that i really only gained 35 hp. thats not unreasonable. 10 for free mods 10 for headers(dyno proven) 10 for y-pipe 5 for a cooler night and less humidity. plus i just put fresh plugs, wires, cap, rotor blah blah blah... on it. the biggest deal was i learned how to drive the thing!

Bort62...
i didn't do the teardrop thing because i didn't know how much material there was. since i have to have the intake off again i'm gonna go ahead and port it some more and do the teardrop thing you are talking about. thanks for pointing that out

Andrew

 

oops...just checking on something.