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305 block?

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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 10:14 PM
  #1  
johnnyboy's Avatar
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
305 block?

i have a 305 out of an 87 parts car that i wasnt to rebuild and swap into my 89 just so i have a fresh motor, i'll do some minor mods for better mileage and power, but my question is ... is the 87 carb'd 305 block the same as the 89 tbi 305 block? i know the heads are different and the carb heads are better than the tbi, but will i be able to put my tbi on the carb engine with the carb heads without any problems? i'm guessing yes but i need to know for sure. thanks in advance
-John
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
They likely have the same heads, the same cam, the same pistons, etc. All in all they are the same engine, just different induction setups. Carb heads are really no better than the TBI heads are.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:17 PM
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 91 Camaro
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: stock, soon to change.
melt that pos 305 block and buy a 350
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by aperfectcircle
melt that pos 305 block and buy a 350
Its an easy upgrade, but if you already have the 305 block, the budget oriented buildup in me says, I see no reason not to build it.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
i see no reason to buy a 350 and build it when i already have a spare 305 sitting around and can just rebuild that. it'd be nice to have insane hp #'s, but i'm keeping it tbi and i'm just looking for a nice driver. i'll probably just take the heads off the spare block and port and polish them and install new valves and everything. maybe throw in an lt1 cam while i'm at it.

the most important factor in this is my budget, i'm stiull in high school and can only work so many hours. so i don't have a lot of money.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #6  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 91 Camaro
Transmission: 700 r4
Axle/Gears: stock, soon to change.
i know i was just giving you **** about it i am just not a big fan of the 305, but i have seen some pretty nice ones. its all good though.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #7  
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
Originally Posted by aperfectcircle
i know i was just giving you **** about it i am just not a big fan of the 305, but i have seen some pretty nice ones. its all good though.
yeah i'm not a huge fan of the 305 either, but my cash flow is too low to do anything else
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 03:18 PM
  #8  
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From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Re-build the 305. Great for a daily driver on a budget. Make it reliable and learn from the experience. There are a number of low buck upgrades that you can probably afford to do along with the rebuild that will make you proud.

Good luck
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
If your going to tear apart the 305 for a complete rebuild, then getting a 350 block and rebuilding it will still be cheaper than the 305. Look up the cost of the 305 rebuild kit and then one for a 350, last time I checked it was almost a 75$ difference. You can pick up a rebuildable 350 for that much.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #10  
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
nowhere around here can i find a rebuildable 350 for $75
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 07:40 PM
  #11  
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
Keep in mind you don't need the whole complete motor. What I do is start with a bare 350 block. Get a crank from advanced auto for 110$ with bearings. Source a set of rods either out of your 305 or e-bay (I picked up a set of PM LT1 rods for 50$). Everything else will either come in the rebuild kit or you can get from your 305.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 05:24 PM
  #12  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Where's some really cheap rebuild kits ?

I'm kinda in the same spot, have a spare 305 in the garage.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #13  
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From: Palatine, IL
Car: 87 iroc
Engine: 454 .030 over
Transmission: th-350
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
if you cant spend the extra few bucks on a 350 block you shouldnt b building a motor, go to the junkyard and get one
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 06:10 PM
  #14  
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
you have to realize that it is not cheaper to go and find a 350 block than it is to just use one you have sitting around.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:06 PM
  #15  
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From: Buckhannon, WV
Car: 84' Monte
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700-r4
Axle/Gears: ferd 9" posi 3.50 gears
$301 for the 305 rebuild kit

Northern Auto Parts: - Chevy 305-H Car 85-88 Hyd Camshaft

$179 for the 350 rebuild kit

Northern Auto Parts: - Chevy 350 81-85

That leaves you with 120$ difference to get a rebuildable 350 block. If you can't find a 350 with a spun rod bearing or something like that then your not looking hard enough. I'm not trying to be rude, but they are really really easy to find. I've gotten both of my last two 350's for $25. Heck I even picked up a running motor for $50, although that was a bit of a steal.

Keep in mind you need a whole lot more than a rebuild kit to do a rebuild. My ultra cheap rebuilds usually consist of the following.

Crank kit from Advanced Auto (includes rod and main bearings) $120
Rebuild a set of stock rods with ARP bolts $120
Block machining (bore, hone, install cam bearings) $200
Install pistons on rods $40
Head work $200 for valve job and resurface add $150 for new guides
Rebuild kit $179
Oil,filters $30 (two changes worth)

Total:$850

Unfortuanately things never work out that easy and I always end up with another $200-$500 worth of stuff. Things like plugs, wires, water pumps, hoses, belts and other odd ball stuff adds up quick.

Again to touch on the whole 305 vs. 350 debate, going to a 350 is the cheapest way to make power period. You'll gain 30-40hp with no other changes.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #16  
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Compare the Rebuild kits of similar vintage 305/350 engines. They will be ALOT more even. The only thing that is more expensive on the 305 is the pistons/rings and sometimes gaskets. Even then we are only talking maybe $25.00 for the whole set.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #17  
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From: western ny
Car: '82 formula clone, 95 saab 900se
Engine: 350 vortec'd tbi, 2.0L turbo
Transmission: 700r4, 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 2.77 open
i'm not looking for power, mainly mpg. and i'll probably just redo the topend for now
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