TBI Throttle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.

HELP ME !!!! PLEASE

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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 07:32 PM
  #1  
PopaPork's Avatar
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From: Trenton NJ,Rochester Ny
HELP ME !!!! PLEASE

Ok I just got my headers on...(in the sig) The problem is before I took my car in I noticed my IDLE was lower then it should be and I had some blackish Gray smoke on start up but once it warmed up it was fine. I also noticed a little power loss. Well I get the car back and the guy at the shop was like you need some new plugs your had some carbon on them. (New Plugs...maybe 8K on them and the wires) Then when Istarted the car. BIG BLACK SMOKE came out of her. ON the way home I would put my foot in to it and she would be SLOW AS HELL and I would back fire, she must of back fired about 12 times. Also you can hear a Cyclinder missing when I rev the engine. To make things worse when I am at a stop light, or going really slow.....STALL!! HELP ME!! I want to take it to ETOWN this friday and I am supposed to get my chip burned saruday. HELPP MEEE PLEEEASE.

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89 RS Camaro
Hedman Headers, Highflow Cat, Flowmaster 80 Series
180 Degree Thermo
Open Air Element with K&N Air Filter
Custum Burned Chip

So Many Mods......so little time
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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 07:58 PM
  #2  
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From: Hemet, CA
Make sure you didn't burn any wires on the headers or y-pipe. My O2 sensor wire is scary close to the y-pipe. Also disconnect the battery to clear the ECM so it can relearn with the headers. Also make sure you didn't burn through any plug wires
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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 10:39 PM
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From: Trenton NJ USA
well #1 do what andy said...if there was carbon on the plugs after only 8k u might wanna check your timing...when i first bought my car the plugs were pretty black...come to find out the timing was advanced 13 degrees..no wonder i was getting some "octane ping" (so i thought)...as for the stalling the IAC should bring the rpms back up if they begin to drop..there was a post on this a while ago check it out...BTW if u have nothing do to one day have a friend sit in your car and hold it at around 2,000 rpms while u take a squirt bottle filled with water and spray the mist into the throttle bores...this will clean out most carbon deposits...that was the first thing i did on my car and u could actually see black soot on the driveway under the exhaust turndowns
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Old Jul 10, 2001 | 11:01 PM
  #4  
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From: Ocean Springs MS USA
I agree with the above posts. make sure your O2 wire is not burnt, and be careful with the water. It is a good idea, and it works, but Any more than a mist will cause hydroulic lock in your motor, and you will have bent connecting rods. (liquids dont compress) Make sure you plugged the map back in. I had mine unhooked one day in my chevelle, and it ran, but it was horrible. almost worse than a carb

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69 Chevelle 2dr hardtop blue, bench seats, 12 bolt w/3.73's muncie 4 speed. best 14.5@90
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Old Jul 11, 2001 | 03:07 PM
  #5  
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Definatly check plug wires if it's missing and backfiring. I replaced my wires and it made a huge difference. As for the black smoke, that's definatly a rich condition and carbon build up in the exhaust, cat, and engine being blown out. If I were you I would rule out the o2 if when you cold start it runs the same. The o2 is not looked at until closed loop and even on a warm start there is a time delay before it goes into closed loop. I might be wrong, I don't know how the o2 sensor will effect the ecm if it's grounded out.
Next you should check to make sure there isn't a bad vacuum leak around the MAP sensor. If that isn't getting a good reading your car will run like crap and backfire.
If all else fails we can still get together and just trouble shoot your problem.

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website
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Old Jul 11, 2001 | 11:02 PM
  #6  
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From: Trenton NJ USA
UPDATE!!!...i went over to chris's aka PopaPorks today to meet him and we decided to troubleshoot this thing...first thing we found was that the place that did the header install decided to not replace the wires with 90degree boots but to push the straights against the primaries and melt them so they would form somewhat of a 90 degree angle...d*ckheads...i guess since they f'd that up they wouldn't think it would be necessary to put the wires on the cap w/the right firing order either (4wires were mixed up)...so we decided it was a good time to do plugs and wires so we did that and having the order right seemed to make a nice improvement : ) duh...the car still had some serious detonation so we figured the car had a sh*tload of base timing in it which would cause this and the rich condition so we retarted it and that helped as well...the idle was still rough so we checked the 02 and that was good as well as the MAP so we ran it for codes and got a code 25 (IAT)so we plugged my IAT sensor in since i knew it was good...still a bad idle and stalling...we later found out the IAC was bad...hopefully chris will get his a*s to AutoZone and get a new one so we can start doin fun stuff to his car...all in all it was a great day for automotive tunning : )
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Old Jul 12, 2001 | 12:26 AM
  #7  
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From: Trenton NJ,Rochester Ny
Blackbird305 couldnt have said it any better. Tommorow I am going to get a new IAC sensor and bring the timing down some more. Who knows. Hopefully I will be able to get it to the track friday. We have gotten the detination down to 0 to 1300 RPMs instead of the 0 to 2500 rpms. My consern is, whut if I cant turn the distributor any more to retard it. We cant see the mark on the timing chain to use the timing gun........AHHH
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Old Jul 12, 2001 | 01:28 PM
  #8  
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Disconnect the tan wire and start the car. Retard the timing until it almost dies then give it just a hair of a turn in advance. Turn off car, restart and if it fires right up with like half a crank then that's a good base setting. We can change the timing with an eprom so don't worry about advancing the timing unless you like to set mechanical patches to an electronic problem . It's like increasing fuel pressure to compensate for more hp. It'll screw up the whole VE table and BLM (don't worry if you don't know what this is)!
Pork, you've got mail

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website
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Old Jul 13, 2001 | 12:41 AM
  #9  
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From: Trenton NJ,Rochester Ny
UPDATE NUMBER 2!!! GOT IT FIXED!! I Got my timing all figured out tonight, I now have it advanced to about 700 rpms ( dont know how many degrees that is) But It seems to have gotten rid of the engine running to rich. Also figured out why it ran sho Sh!tty. Me and Blackbird took 4 hours to run plugs and wires and to recheck them, well we had 2 wires crossed. AAAAALSO My IAC was shot, which was making it stall out at low RPMs. But hey now it is workin like a champ. Headers sound GREAT, Car runs smooth. The best part is, I ROMPED my buddies 88 FORMULA 5 spd. I mean I had a car and a half on him when I hit the breaks before the end of the 1/4 mile. I have never done that before with this car. BUT I DID IT NOW. I would like to thank ya all for the help and BlackBird305 for comin over to help me and NJ speeder for takin all of our stupid calls. Thanks guys.

Peace

------------------
89 RS Camaro
Hedman Headers, Highflow Cat, Flowmaster 80 Series
180 Degree Thermo
Open Air Element with K&N Air Filter
Custum Burned Chip

So Many Mods......so little time

www.rit.edu/~cjp8408
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