Will a new cam kill my engine?
Will a new cam kill my engine?
My RS has 140k miles on it. I've spent over 2 grand in the course of 2 years repairing it and finally it is problem free (knock on wood). I'm wondering, if i wanted to get a new cam, would that be too much for my engine to handle or no? AND AND, how much does it cost for an install on one of em, cause lord knows i dont have the knowledge to do this sort of thing. Gracias
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1991 Camaro RS (Red)
-TTops
-Custom quad exhaust
-Edelbrock 14x3 open air element w/ K&N filter
*Coming Soon*
Cowl Induction hood
------------------
1991 Camaro RS (Red)
-TTops
-Custom quad exhaust
-Edelbrock 14x3 open air element w/ K&N filter
*Coming Soon*
Cowl Induction hood
Well, the thing with a cam swap is, it's not as simple as changing the cam.
To do it properly you'll need to at least change the timing chain/gears, and install new lifters (A MUST). With 140K miles on it, the valvesprings are probably worn out (probably float the valves with a high lift cam). Then, since you've gotta pull the heads to change the springs, you might as well do a valve job, and since you're there you might as well do a little port matching. Also, with high mileage like that it's a good idea to re-ring the motor (hone it 3 over if possible) but since you've got it all apart you should probably bore it .030 over since you've gotta hone it anyway. And bearings, Its just plain dumb to put the old bearings back in (about $75 for a GOOD set of 77s). You should also throw a set of ARP bolts in the rods since you've got them apart.
Do you see where I'm going with this?
If I were you I'd buy a 350 or a 400 from the "yard" and have it built MILDLY. Probably cost ya $1,800-$2,500 depending on how far ya wanna go with it, making 300-400HP easy. Then just sawp the motors.
140K miles isn't too bad for a stock motor (probably got another 30-40K left in it), but if you start messing with it it will kick the bucket in no time.
We just dynoed a 350 at work today, Mid 70's Vette motor, factory 202 heads, pretty stout cam- made 421HP@ 5800RPM and it had a FAT FLAT torque curve.
Even the boss was amazed.
Good Luck,
John
To do it properly you'll need to at least change the timing chain/gears, and install new lifters (A MUST). With 140K miles on it, the valvesprings are probably worn out (probably float the valves with a high lift cam). Then, since you've gotta pull the heads to change the springs, you might as well do a valve job, and since you're there you might as well do a little port matching. Also, with high mileage like that it's a good idea to re-ring the motor (hone it 3 over if possible) but since you've got it all apart you should probably bore it .030 over since you've gotta hone it anyway. And bearings, Its just plain dumb to put the old bearings back in (about $75 for a GOOD set of 77s). You should also throw a set of ARP bolts in the rods since you've got them apart.
Do you see where I'm going with this?
If I were you I'd buy a 350 or a 400 from the "yard" and have it built MILDLY. Probably cost ya $1,800-$2,500 depending on how far ya wanna go with it, making 300-400HP easy. Then just sawp the motors.
140K miles isn't too bad for a stock motor (probably got another 30-40K left in it), but if you start messing with it it will kick the bucket in no time.
We just dynoed a 350 at work today, Mid 70's Vette motor, factory 202 heads, pretty stout cam- made 421HP@ 5800RPM and it had a FAT FLAT torque curve.
Even the boss was amazed.
Good Luck,
John
the cam swap alone won't kill your engine, but it'll make it happen a lot sooner. The best thing to do would be, as was already suggested, get someone to build you a mild 350, and drop it in.
Anthony
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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.
Anthony
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previous ride: 87 Camaro LT
350, A4.Comp Cams 268H, Edelbrock Preformer intake, Hedman Headers and y-pipe, gutted cat, No AIR/smog pump. 14x3" Open element K&N, Q-jet w/ D hanger and DA rods, adjusted AV spring tension and quick can.
Current ride: 1992 Camaro RS, K&N, Flowmaster, 305, T5, Black, T-tops, 76k miles.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Then, since you've gotta pull the heads to change the springs</font>
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,182
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From: Park City, UT
Car: '92 Corvette, '89 1/2-a-'Vette
Engine: LT1, L400
Transmission: ZF6, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.31
Go ahead and change the cam. One of the best bang for the buck mods you can do. And no, it won't hurt the motor.
With my 1st T/A, ('83 LG4, Auto) I drove it (hard) until it had 175,000 mi. Then I slapped in a Summit 214*/224* cam and lifter kit. That's $80 bucks. I also put in a new Summit timing chain set ($14.50) and obviously new gaskets. So for les than $150 bucks, my 1/4 times plumeted from 16.1's to 15.3's. Again, that was with 175,000mi. The car continued to run fine, burn 1 qt/3000mi, and get 24 mpg hwy. I sold the car w/200,000mi under the same conditions. The girl I sold it to drove it (hard) to 230,000 mi. with no problems. 1/4 mi times rose to 15.6's but oil consumption and fuel economy remained the same. She sold it @230, and it finally blew a head gastket at 240,000mi. -which I'm pretty sure blew due to some severe overheating I had done many miles before.
I *should* have replaced the valve springs, but I didn't, and it didn't seem to cause a problem for me. But the end result was a <$150 mod that netted almost a second off my 1/4 mi, and provided service for at least 65,000 more miles. Like I said, good bang for the buck. Do the cam swap.
[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited July 17, 2001).]
With my 1st T/A, ('83 LG4, Auto) I drove it (hard) until it had 175,000 mi. Then I slapped in a Summit 214*/224* cam and lifter kit. That's $80 bucks. I also put in a new Summit timing chain set ($14.50) and obviously new gaskets. So for les than $150 bucks, my 1/4 times plumeted from 16.1's to 15.3's. Again, that was with 175,000mi. The car continued to run fine, burn 1 qt/3000mi, and get 24 mpg hwy. I sold the car w/200,000mi under the same conditions. The girl I sold it to drove it (hard) to 230,000 mi. with no problems. 1/4 mi times rose to 15.6's but oil consumption and fuel economy remained the same. She sold it @230, and it finally blew a head gastket at 240,000mi. -which I'm pretty sure blew due to some severe overheating I had done many miles before.
I *should* have replaced the valve springs, but I didn't, and it didn't seem to cause a problem for me. But the end result was a <$150 mod that netted almost a second off my 1/4 mi, and provided service for at least 65,000 more miles. Like I said, good bang for the buck. Do the cam swap.
[This message has been edited by Tom 400 CFI (edited July 17, 2001).]
With 140k miles your car is just broken in. I would do the cam, and get rid of those nasty 2.73 gears (or 3.08 if you have a manual). With my LT4 cam (.525I/.525E), and my stock gears, my acceleration horribly suffered. I didn't change my lifters, but roller tappets are supposed to last longer due to decreased friction. Change your valvesprings, they are around 50 bucks, and you can use an air compressor (into the combustion chamber) to hold the valves up while you change the springs. I definitely recommend getting a cam, torque converter, and some short gears. Your car will run awesome with them.
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